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Let me know how your customer service experience goes for you. I am still trying to get them to send me another MOST decoder due to the fact that the one that shipped is not making any sound at all.
They continue to have me send them voltage readings, pictures, and try different things, even though they said (in writing) that it was the decoder and they would send a new one. It's been a month plus.
$189 shipped for a 4-channel decoder is actually starting to look like money well spent...
Jimbabwe, thanks for the info. I will keep you posted. That is bummer to hear that we already have 2 DOA MOST boxes out of such a few number of orders. What email address did you use to contact them? I used the sales one that initially emailed me to verify my car details and ask for a picture of the dashboard. I would advise others to hold off on ordering until you see how they resolve us.
hgupta, that camera system looks awesome. I am curious to see how it works. Looks like it will really update the vehicle to modern german standards.
I got a response from their support this morning. They sent me directions with pictures on how to install the MOST box. Mine is definitely installed correctly according to their instructions. Will keep you guys posted.
I have stayed on top of responding to them and they keep sending me directions to change things and tweak things that clearly will have no positive outcome. It looks like they are basically just trying to waste my time until I get outside of the 30 day return period.
Resetting the unit to factory settings was their most recent set of instructions after I have clearly told them that I have swapped the output RCA's from the head unit and used another audio source to verify that the MOST box is only outputting to the left channel.
If they do not agree to send me a new MOST box soon I may pursue going through paypal to get a refund. Jimbabwe, I recommend you do the same or they will keep getting away with screwing people over by sending out bad parts.
I am leaning towards replacing the rest of the electronics - amp, speakers, etc. to totally bypass this terrible bose and porsche monstrosity. It will be more work and money, but probably less of a headache in the long run.
nodoors, it's funny you said that. After 5 weeks and 27 correspondences full of suggestions, photos, voltage readings, tests, and twice saying that the decoder would be replaced, they did not specifically state that they would ship out a replacement until I directly asked for "a replacement decoder or a full refund to my PayPal account."
Overall I like the HU, I have used this forum to get my reverse camera to work, installed the latest IQNavi software, but it would be so much better with actual sound...
Go get them nodoors!
I hate to hear that Seicane is jerking you around. For those who are thinking about it, the same device is available from other sellers, including straight from the IQ Navi folks. The MOST adapter is available from lots of sellers at the same price. I had one from AVIN that was exactly like this one and was likely made in the same factory.
nodoors, it's funny you said that. After 5 weeks and 27 correspondences full of suggestions, photos, voltage readings, tests, and twice saying that the decoder would be replaced, they did not specifically state that they would ship out a replacement until I directly asked for "a replacement decoder or a full refund to my PayPal account."
Overall I like the HU, I have used this forum to get my reverse camera to work, installed the latest IQNavi software, but it would be so much better with actual sound...
Go get them nodoors!
My installation went perfectly, but I'm looking at replacing the speakers and amp anyway. I always had great stereos, got away from putting in good sound systems when factory systems got "good enough". I don't want good enough, so I may have a known good most adapter with very little run time on it for sale here soon at like half price or something.
My installation went perfectly, but I'm looking at replacing the speakers and amp anyway. I always had great stereos, got away from putting in good sound systems when factory systems got "good enough". I don't want good enough, so I may have a known good most adapter with very little run time on it for sale here soon at like half price or something.
I have been thinking about doing the same. Any idea what kind of labor costs this would entail?
In waiting out their responses over the past week I have already done a lot of research in light of just foregoing the MOST encoder box altogether and putting in a 5 channel amp and new speakers. You guys will probably find this thread really helpful if you have not already seen it:
He claims that with this wiring the bose speakers sound decent despite their crazy propriety impedances.
I would probably go the same route as him except I would only run 4 RCA channels to the rear: Left, right, sub, and one to use for the reverse camera. I would just reuse the factory speaker wire runs. Whoever goes this route, please post any tips or advice on changing out the stupid bose speakers and amp. I will be sure to if I do take the plunge.
I have been thinking about doing the same. Any idea what kind of labor costs this would entail?
Originally Posted by AGARubberDuck
Free DIY
My guess would be 8-10 hours shop time if you were to have a full rewire done.
The shop I used for the head unit install quoted 7 hours labor including subwoofer in factory location but is gouging big time on the equipment. Still need to do more research on components.
What components are you thinking about? This is off topic, but I was playing around with some ideas tonight. What do you guys think about modernizing the front end of a 955 to look more like the 2017 model? My wife was not a fan, but I think it's cool...
It's been years since I've done similar research so I really don't know what components yet.
Found a diagram of all the speakers. My install shop messed up the volume and the antennas, need to go back to fix that and expect it will be loud enough again, but the subwoofer has always sucked in the cayenne. So on topic, Seicane has 4x41 watt max output. I'm completely non-technical, so my question if anyone knows is what can be done to use the Seicane head unit to drive JUST a new sub. Remove and replace original sub with a top quality replacement for the same space. Forgive the lack of technical terms, but can't amp channels usually be combined/added together to make 2x82watt or 1x164watt? Sorry if dumb, but want to know if I can use the Seicane to drive a sub and leave the entire rest of teh system stock.
Otherwise, big darn job. 8" and 3" in front doors, tweets in dash, 6.5" mids in rear doors and tweets in B pillars plus amp or amps to drive them all. Shop I used for the install didn't even quote R&R on second row speakers which actually matter more to me. I find the sound feels best to me with balance/fade set heavily right rear to make the driver's seat feel at center, so I'd definitely want to do the rear mids/tweets as well.
I remember seeing a sub RCA output and would advise just using that for a separate sub amp or sub amp channel on an aftermarket amp. In my very limited experience with these specific Chinese units (but holding electrical engineering and computer science degrees and many years in the field) I would advise not trying to bridge amplified channels on this device to drive a sub would be a waste of time at high risk of letting the magic smoke out of the MOSFETS.
What has been done many times is using the head unit to drive some of your mids and highs to spare channels on your more powerful amp for the subwoofers(s). I will likely just leave a few speaker locations out and go with a set of high quality components for each door.
I remember seeing a sub RCA output and would advise just using that for a separate sub amp or sub amp channel on an aftermarket amp. In my very limited experience with these specific Chinese units (but holding electrical engineering and computer science degrees and many years in the field) I would advise not trying to bridge amplified channels on this device to drive a sub would be a waste of time at high risk of letting the magic smoke out of the MOSFETS.
What has been done many times is using the head unit to drive some of your mids and highs to spare channels on your more powerful amp for the subwoofers(s). I will likely just leave a few speaker locations out and go with a set of high quality components for each door.
Got it. Will do the sub as recommended. Can the 4x41 be used for anything at all in conjunction with keeping the rest of the Bose system, like say driving four tweeters, or is that just a silly mess? Just curious. I need tires and a little body work this fall and want to get some cheap improvements for the moment. The sub will be a huge improvement by itself.