Jamescoop

I have light cylinder scoring - so light I missed it with one bore scope, got a better one and can see some evidence of it.

Wondering best fix, obvisouly I want to use as long as possible while looking for replacement engine. (Wish I had the $ to build up a monster, gotta start saving!)

The car has had 0W-40, the upgrade to 5W-40 might be enough for a while. Add some ceratec for good measure (although I did want to use molygen to spot leaks)

Or maybe just a can of engine restore...Its supposed to actually fill cylinder grooves a bit - well proven on old stuff - not sure its good for these AluSil engines (never heard of a porsche guy using compression in a can, but I had great results in a boat before).

Edit: Maybe this? https://smile.amazon.com/XADO-Stage-...0IZD6TMC/?th=1

Advice appreciated.

95_993

No harm in putting some Ceratec in

Jamescoop

There is with Molygen oil is the issue.

lkraav

Can you elaborate?

Jfrahm

Project Farm on youtube tested Restore and it worked better than I expected. If I had scoring I might run it while saving my pennies for an engine or engine work. That's assuming low compression, maybe rough idle, but not audible piston slap.

Jamescoop

Yes, Liqui Moly says to NOT put Ceratec in with Molygen oil.

Jamescoop

I dont think I have ticking yet - it more of a knocking right? Cause theres definately loud injectors on these things.
I have used Restore on marine engines with GREAT success. I think its mainly an oil thickener as opposed to coating surfaces like Ceratec or this other stuff claims to do: https://smile.amazon.com/XADO-Stage-...0IZD6TMC/?th=1

Jfrahm

I'd say piston slap is more of a clacking, similar to injector noise. I would also run a ZDDP oil additive and hope it reduces the metal-on-metal wear. Going to 5w40 oil sounds sensible, but not all 5w40 oils are the same and there is more not-oil in the mix for larger viscosity ranges. Maybe research the 15w40 full synthetic extreme diesel oils.
In my experience turbo motors tend to get a lot more light cylinder scratching although I do not know about the 955/957TT.

Santacruz

I always understood the turbo engine was stronger against this, as it has under piston oil sprayers, that the N/A engines do not.

lkraav

Stronger, but not at all immune.

19psi

One guy used to spread that BS non stop on this forum to the point it still comes up on google searches. He quit posting years ago...probably because his precious turbo scored its bores.

There's a bore scoring survey that used to be pinned in this forum. When the individual results were listed, the turbos always far outnumbered the NA engines for failures.
Now factor in how fewer turbos were produced compared to the NA. If you want the ultimate kiss of death, buy an '08 turbo.

Santacruz

Okay.
My source of information was from FCP Euro on YouTube.
I am by no means an expert on these engines (just general knowledge and what I am learning by having one), so it seemed that FCP Euro was a fair source for information before I joined this forum.
I am also aware that any of these engines can suffer from this problem. I was just under the impression that the Turbo was the least prone engine.
I stand corrected.

19psi

Just to be clear, my post wasn't towards you. It's just that wrinkledpants guy was such a Porsche fanboy, his legacy still irritates me (I wouldn't doubt that an FCP blog got their info from some of his posts). You could point out all the people coming into this forum with scored turbo engines and he'd excuse it as a miniscule fluke causality that all car manufacturers experience. And when someone would complain about their trashed 70K mile engine, he'd literally get upset and tell them they should be able to afford to repair their $100,000 SUV.

It's like when I was researching the 928, except instead of fanboys, it was Debbie Downers (something I've never experienced in any other car or motorcycle group). At first I was devastated to find out that my dream car was considered an impossible to repair piece of garbage. Everything including a timing belt change was supposedly a $5000 job, and if you can't do it yourself, there's only one mechanic on the planet who can do it correctly.
Then I realized the "difficult and expensive to maintain" mindset was created by about 5 guys who lived on these forums 24/7...boomers who put their man-cards (and *****) in a shredder sometime back in the 1970s. The kind of guys who would curl up and die if you told them to change out a starter or alternator on a V8 Cayenne.
They (with the help of Google search) did keep the 928 market down compared to other Porsches, which was a good thing if you were looking to buy. As that group slowly disappears and forum membership grows, those old posts get buried and the truth comes out...values are going up accordingly.

SoloRacer

George,

I bought my 08 CTT primarily because of the story that bore scoring only affected the NA versions. Eight badly scored cylinders and $30k+ in repair costs later and I am warning as many people as possible about the POS that a CTT can be. I only wish there was someone like you to set the record straight about 5 years ago.

Petza914

I would run Driven DT40 oil. It is high in Zinc, Phosphorous, and Moly right in the formulation so nothing need to be added. It's what I use in my 650 HP CTTS and produces phenomenal UOA reports, as well as in my daughter's Q5 3.2 and my wife's 997 c2s. If you live where it's hot, you can use Driven FR50 5w50 for more hot film strength than the DT40 has with all the other benefits (I run FR50 in my supercharged 997).

I wouldn't put anything thats supposed to fill grooves into your engine, jua try to reduce the progression of it as best you can.

Here's the Bore Scoring survey results link - https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1F.../viewanalytics