Still can’t get car started
#1
Still can’t get car started
2006 V6 Cayenne 100k mi.
My car died at the train station but my son was able to jump start me. I drove the car home and it hasn’t started since. That was May. I did a lot of reading on the forum and I pulled up the drivers carpet and the padding was wet, so I unwrapped the wire bundle, opened all the doors and windows, disconnected the battery, hung the carpet from the steering wheel and let Mother Nature dry the car out.
The ends of the spliced wires were heavily corroded so I cut them back a little and rejoined them. After doing the wires my brake proportioning and lock fault messages disappeared. The lights, radio, a/c all work, but I hear nothing else- silence from my dead car. I checked all the fuses- right and left sides, and under the hood. The ground connection is fine. The 5A fuse under the driver seat is fine as well.
The car didn’t start so I hooked up the Durametric:
Vehicle Electrical System- 907 fault.
Gateway- 532, 1314, 1321
So, I pulled the battery and the parts store exchanged it because it had a dead cell. It was getting dark out, and dinner was getting cold, but I put the battery in place and connected the cables. Lights, radio, a/c all work, but car still doesn’t start. No bad starter sounds, nothing. I can shift into neutral like normal.
I wanted to test relay 433 under the seat but can’t figure out how to remove it without breaking the holder.
I cleaned up the cowl area and the drains are now clearer, checked my A/C drain and it’s clear. The passenger front sunroof drain has some water in it and I cannot pass a line from my weed trimmer/whacked all the way through- I took off the wheel and removed the wheel liner for full access. I tried sucking out any blockage with my shop vac to no avail.
My car died at the train station but my son was able to jump start me. I drove the car home and it hasn’t started since. That was May. I did a lot of reading on the forum and I pulled up the drivers carpet and the padding was wet, so I unwrapped the wire bundle, opened all the doors and windows, disconnected the battery, hung the carpet from the steering wheel and let Mother Nature dry the car out.
The ends of the spliced wires were heavily corroded so I cut them back a little and rejoined them. After doing the wires my brake proportioning and lock fault messages disappeared. The lights, radio, a/c all work, but I hear nothing else- silence from my dead car. I checked all the fuses- right and left sides, and under the hood. The ground connection is fine. The 5A fuse under the driver seat is fine as well.
The car didn’t start so I hooked up the Durametric:
Vehicle Electrical System- 907 fault.
Gateway- 532, 1314, 1321
So, I pulled the battery and the parts store exchanged it because it had a dead cell. It was getting dark out, and dinner was getting cold, but I put the battery in place and connected the cables. Lights, radio, a/c all work, but car still doesn’t start. No bad starter sounds, nothing. I can shift into neutral like normal.
I wanted to test relay 433 under the seat but can’t figure out how to remove it without breaking the holder.
I cleaned up the cowl area and the drains are now clearer, checked my A/C drain and it’s clear. The passenger front sunroof drain has some water in it and I cannot pass a line from my weed trimmer/whacked all the way through- I took off the wheel and removed the wheel liner for full access. I tried sucking out any blockage with my shop vac to no avail.
#3
Did you check under the carpeting on both sides? Both sides can have the problem.
And - the corrosion can extend up the wire from the end, capillary action draws water up into the wire, You have to cut back enough that you see bright shiny copper. I'd then suggest soldering and then using seal-sealing shink-wrap (has gooey crap inside) to seal them up.
And - the corrosion can extend up the wire from the end, capillary action draws water up into the wire, You have to cut back enough that you see bright shiny copper. I'd then suggest soldering and then using seal-sealing shink-wrap (has gooey crap inside) to seal them up.
#4
There is also a main Pyro fuse under the driver's seat that blows in an accident if the airbags deploy and exhibits these same symptoms - everything else looks like it works, but the car won't try to start. I wonder if the wetness in the wire bundle combined with the jump start may have caused a delayed blow on this fuse or if something shorted while you were working on the wire bundle and damaged it. I'd check that just to make sure it's engaged and not blown..
#5
I went in and cut back the wires another 2-2.5” and reconnected them. The floor on the passenger side was dry, and the wires were all intact.
whenever I work on electrical I disconnect the battery. The jump start to the battery was vis the connections under the hood, and the car ran fine on the way home.
whenever I work on electrical I disconnect the battery. The jump start to the battery was vis the connections under the hood, and the car ran fine on the way home.
#7
I cleaned up the cowl area and the drains are now clearer, checked my A/C drain and it’s clear. The passenger front sunroof drain has some water in it and I cannot pass a line from my weed trimmer/whacked all the way through- I took off the wheel and removed the wheel liner for full access. I tried sucking out any blockage with my shop vac to no avail.
Weed-wacker string won't go through the drains. There are two right angles in the drain down near the fuse box at the end of the dash. If you remove the fuse box cover you can probably see them. They're also ones that like to blow apart if you use compressed air and there is a good blockage down below them. Are you certain the sunroof drains are blocked? I tested mine on the 955 every so often by pouring a few ounces of water into the corner of the opening for the sunroof (where the drain is located..) and waited for it to dribble out the bottom.
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#8
Twisted the strands together and than shrink wrap over them.
Water is not draining from the front passenger corner sunroof drain. When I pulled the weed whacker/trimmer string outit was very wet after it hadn’t rained in days.
I’m still trying to figure our how water got into the driver footpan.
Water is not draining from the front passenger corner sunroof drain. When I pulled the weed whacker/trimmer string outit was very wet after it hadn’t rained in days.
I’m still trying to figure our how water got into the driver footpan.
#9
Twisting the wires together is not good enough... Each strand can oxidize and then you have a poor connection.
Did you reset the codes with the Durametric? Or just look at them? Some codes have to be reset (steering faulty is one) it will not allow you to start the car until the code is reset.
Did you reset the codes with the Durametric? Or just look at them? Some codes have to be reset (steering faulty is one) it will not allow you to start the car until the code is reset.
#10
Twisting them together is not the hot setup. Soldering or a crimp-connect with sealant in it is the right way to do it. As far as how water got into the drivers side "footpan" (I assume you mean the floor in front of the driver) - the sunroof has drains on both sides, and there are cowl drains on both sides. I'd suggest spending a bit of time in the DIY forum.
I'd suggest: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...vac-drain.html
and https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...clean-out.html (although it's for the 958 - the cowl drains are similar enough that it also should help you..)
If soldering sounds like some sort of arcane ritual to you - ask around. Find someone who is an electronics hobbyist - perhaps a ham radio operator. Soldering will be old hat to them.
I'd suggest: https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...vac-drain.html
and https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...clean-out.html (although it's for the 958 - the cowl drains are similar enough that it also should help you..)
If soldering sounds like some sort of arcane ritual to you - ask around. Find someone who is an electronics hobbyist - perhaps a ham radio operator. Soldering will be old hat to them.
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BigDog03 (10-03-2019)
#12
I've been seeing these popping up on FB ads: https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-Solder...55545899&psc=1
I use mostly heat shrink marine crimp connectors, but these could help complete the arsenal if they work well.
Thanks for posting.
#13
I've been seeing these popping up on FB ads: https://www.amazon.com/Wirefy-Solder...55545899&psc=1
Good find! Thanks! I'm adding this link to the DIY article on repairing the wiring for 955/957/958 cars. https://rennlist.com/forums/cayenne-...-moisture.html
Thanks Shawn!
#14
Hey BobbySpeed. Me: 2006 v6 with the same issues except mine starts and runs. No brake lights or tow harness power. Durametric won't let me erase codes, have I soldered resoldered and soldered again checking each time to do it right. My sokderung skills are honed by this point. Still same problem. I will try the amazon product recommended but I'm running out of wire because I have trimmed all spliced connections back so far..will post how my experience is with the amazon product. Please do post on any improvement you have. Thank you everyone that has contributed any entries concerning this topic.
#15
Thank you for your replies, I will brush up on my old soldering skills.
is there a way to check continuity after the wires have been soldered together – meaning, checking continuity through the insulation on the wire? The only way I’ve checked for continuity in the past is from one end of a wire and to another,
i’m concerned how far up under the insation of the wire the water traveled and corroded the black wires.
is there a way to check continuity after the wires have been soldered together – meaning, checking continuity through the insulation on the wire? The only way I’ve checked for continuity in the past is from one end of a wire and to another,
i’m concerned how far up under the insation of the wire the water traveled and corroded the black wires.