Nose lift, CPO, PCNA
#541
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Received the new Conti belt and the proper deep socket so now i'm just waiting to get a free Saturday to get it and the pressure switch installed. Hoping to get it done this weekend. This little Continental belt looks quite sturdy (albeit small) and i'm guessing highly unlikely to fail in this application if not severely dry rotted.
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cdixon (09-14-2023)
#542
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Where did you order the belt from? When I searched for it, various vendors had may brands, it seems to be a common belt for lots of appliances-
JB
JB
#543
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https://us.rs-online.com/product/con...24/?m=72098724
Shipping cost more than the belt but this seems to be a great company.
#545
Instructor
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I used RS also.
The part number for the belt is as follows:-
CONTITECH HTD 312-3M-09
Contitech is Continental
HTD = High Torque Drive
312 is the circumference (312mm)
3m is the length range
09 is the belt width (9mm)
Here's a ink to buy in the UK. Quite a common usage part so you States side guys shouldn't have an issue :-)
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/timing-belts/1821333/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-bing-_-PLA_UK_EN_Pneumatics_%26_Hydraulics_%26_Power_Transmission_Whoop-_-Timing+Belts_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=e&pla-4574930449233578&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!!e!!o!4574930449233578!&gclid=c64a09f 96a2e18a74bcb6994c5eaed0b&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=c64a09f96a2e18a74bcb6994c 5eaed0b
The part number for the belt is as follows:-
CONTITECH HTD 312-3M-09
Contitech is Continental
HTD = High Torque Drive
312 is the circumference (312mm)
3m is the length range
09 is the belt width (9mm)
Here's a ink to buy in the UK. Quite a common usage part so you States side guys shouldn't have an issue :-)
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/timing-belts/1821333/?cm_mmc=UK-PLA-DS3A-_-bing-_-PLA_UK_EN_Pneumatics_%26_Hydraulics_%26_Power_Transmission_Whoop-_-Timing+Belts_Whoop-_-PRODUCT_GROUP&matchtype=e&pla-4574930449233578&s_kwcid=AL!7457!3!!e!!o!4574930449233578!&gclid=c64a09f 96a2e18a74bcb6994c5eaed0b&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=c64a09f96a2e18a74bcb6994c 5eaed0b
#548
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Guys with 1/8 thread lifts have two options. Pay the Porsche tax and get the switch from a dealer while they are still available or use the new version with larger thread and a 1/4 to 1/8 reducing adapter. It will cause switch to sit about 1/2 inch from the valve body but there is enough slack in the wiring to make it work.
#549
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Activated my FAL the other night since humidity levels went town a bit at night. Lift comes on and front is up in less than 5 seconds. This leads me to believe that when my FAL was replaced with a brand new one, the new switch that came with it was either already too old or not properly calibrated. I'll hold off using it again since it's once again hot and humid, and in a few months the low humidity cold weather arrives. The system does have a dryer but why use it in swamp weather? 😂
As for the small thread switch, only obtainable from P dealers-if an adapter is available to use the large thread suco available switches, perhaps someone could try it-but it's not just the thread that could be different, the pump and compressor could be different too. The other option would be to remove the FAL and have a competent machine it for the larger thread switch-
Once in a while a deleted FAL shows up for sale, though never really a cheap deal. But, with the new switch relatively cheap, it could be worth buying one-
As for the small thread switch, only obtainable from P dealers-if an adapter is available to use the large thread suco available switches, perhaps someone could try it-but it's not just the thread that could be different, the pump and compressor could be different too. The other option would be to remove the FAL and have a competent machine it for the larger thread switch-
Once in a while a deleted FAL shows up for sale, though never really a cheap deal. But, with the new switch relatively cheap, it could be worth buying one-
#550
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Well, new switch has failed after about 6 months. I was getting the LIFT displayed intermittently. Seemed to work better on cooler days when the car was cold. I pulled my LSD out of the car for a rebuild and decided to remove the 13 bar switch while at it. Oil was covering the bottom of the switch unfortunately. I know there was some talk about adding an inline filter of some sort to prevent oil leaking back from the struts. Wonder if there is still a way to do that.
#551
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Clean the switch, put it back in place, then remove both banjo bolts at the bottom of the struts(careful, 2 copper little washers on each strut to seal the banjo bolts) 10mm, I think. Then run the FAL to clear the lines of moisture/fluid. Car has to be running-
JB
JB
#552
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#553
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With the lines disconnected the pump keeps running, I would let it keep going for a while. I had my car on ramps, and with the lines disconnected and arms stretched I could hold both lines and pinching the banjo bolts I could feel the air-
It could be that yours had fluid trapped. And if the system isn't pumping enough to lift, the shocks probably made fluid go into the lines-
But I wouldn't touch the switch adjustment screw, just clean it with brake cleaner spray or something-and again, when you loosen the banjo bolts, don't forget the copper washers. I bought new ones at the dealer, they had them in stock-
I just did a night drive, FAL rises in 3 seconds with LIFT on the dash 👍
It could be that yours had fluid trapped. And if the system isn't pumping enough to lift, the shocks probably made fluid go into the lines-
But I wouldn't touch the switch adjustment screw, just clean it with brake cleaner spray or something-and again, when you loosen the banjo bolts, don't forget the copper washers. I bought new ones at the dealer, they had them in stock-
I just did a night drive, FAL rises in 3 seconds with LIFT on the dash 👍
#555
Rennlist Member