Originally Posted by Medicopter

Thanks for your input lawrence1. I came across this drive cycle information as well. When you come to a complete stop and idle for 3 minutes, does it require an engine shutdown as well before repeating steps B through D?

Originally Posted by lawrence1

It won't make a difference either way. I usually leave it running, and repeat the cycle. I've found that sometimes even doing the cycle once will set all the monitors, so if you have a scanner, i would check readiness after your first full driving cycle. Do not clear codes, do not try to reset anything DME related during the process, obviously. There is no need for a 10 minute idle from cold either. Most people do not do the cycle correctly, hence why they end up taking it to the dealer. You have to follow those steps EXACTLY, which is not easy at all if you live in a populated area. It's doable though.

Originally Posted by Medicopter

A few more questions...

1) Is the proper fuel level critical for EVAP only or is it also important for other monitors like secondary air? Not sure, I would just follow the drive cycle sequence. Make sure fuel level is below 3/4 tank, and i would aim for measurably less than that (i.e. closer to half tank).

2) Does a cold start followed by 10 minutes at idle apply to short testing with PIWIS only or should secondary air set without it as well? There is no need to idle for 10 minutes. Start from cold, idle 2.5 minutes or slightly over, then continue on with the remaining steps.

3) When does the computer actually write into memory that a specific monitor set to "ready"? At the time it occurred? After a specific time at idle? After engine shutdown? After a complete drive cycle only? It writes them instantly as the conditions to set them to "ready" are met.

I have no fault codes but that probably means nothing.

Originally Posted by lawrence1

see above. just find a suitable stretch of road (and highway) and go for it. I've had to do this multiple times (BMWs have a very similar process), and it's a pain ... particularly the part where you drive at 20-30 mph for several minutes. Hard to find a good place for that, even at night, since most roads have traffic lights or stop signs on them. Good luck.

Originally Posted by lawrence1

Here is what I use (Porsche official procedure - i think i found it on this forum a while back):

Porsche 911 Drive Cycle - OBDII Emission Monitor Reset Procedure

Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.

A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system.
B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency.
C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching).
D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested
E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.

You have to follow this exactly. Also, drive at 55mph for 3 minutes as part of part C (not an additional 3 minutes, but 3 minutes out of the 15 minutes).

Easier said than done ... I usually do these late at night when traffic is light. Be sure to watch your throttle inputs and RPM. Light throttle angle ONLY, and RPMs have to be kept below 3k AT ALL TIMES!

Originally Posted by Medicopter

My GT3 is due for CA smog and I'm facing the same dilemma (EVAP and Secondary Air not ready). No dead battery or disconnect. I just haven't driven it lately accept for my drive to the smog station (about 10 freeway miles away with a full tank of gas). I understand EVAP only is okay for CA smog. My question, can the dealer reset "Secondary Air not ready" with PIWIS while the engine is still hot or does it need to be cold for that too? I just don't want to waste more time with this than I have to or do drive cycles.

Originally Posted by cgfen

If you are near san diego
see Adam Gill @ vollig autowerks
He has extensive experience getting the monitors to "set".

Originally Posted by ljmartyre

CA resident, had the same issue when I bought my car.

I put over 2000 miles on it driving it back home after clearing a CEL with a standard scanner tool.
The light went away but the OBD was never ready even after about 3 weeks and that amount of miles.
Tried every possible drive cycle - nothing.


Took it to the dealership ( only because a buddy of mine is a SA there and got me a tech connection )
They had it "ready" in less than an hour. No drive cycle - just their computer.
Drove to the car to smog and it had no issues passing.

Tech told me resetting the CEL with the traditional scanner resets these adaptations and that no amount of driving or drive cycle would have readied the last sensor.

I know this isn't of much help. But just wanted to point out that they do indeed have the ability to ready the car without the hassle.

Originally Posted by Medicopter

I have great news! The secondary air monitor set to “ready” today and I passed smog. It was my third cold start with a short drive (first two steps of the drive cycle). This confirms that you don’t have to do the complete drive cycle for secondary air to set.

EVAP is still not ready. The smog guy said that it depends a lot on outside air temperature and air pressure.

The scanner that FLT6SPD recommended to me was very helpful. Thank you again for all your help with this.

Originally Posted by lawrence1

congrats. you'll need to do the full drive cycle to set the EVAP, or it may set on its own as you drive the car more.

Originally Posted by Wonderdan

You can also leave your scanner plugged in, I do and just hit refresh on it mid cycle... just don't accidentally reset