Failing Ca Smog: Secondary Air, not ready
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Failing Ca Smog: Secondary Air, not ready
anyone else with a gen 2 fail smog because their secondary air system was 'not ready' in as much as the ECU was not reset and able to monitor this subsystem?
If so, advice on remedies?
If so, advice on remedies?
#2
Rennlist Member
#3
Had the same issue...eventually took it to my local Porsche dealer and they knew how to do the magic dance to get it to pass.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#9
2nd Gear
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: People's Republik
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#10
Rennlist Member
Here u go Larry:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.
Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may interchange.
Routine will be discontinued whenever:
Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
Large fluctuations in throttle angle
Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
To the above I would add a few key points:
A) Engine must start from truly cold... best let the car sit outside overnight (there is a minimum coolant temp needed for OBD cycle to run, I forgot what that is...)
B) I have found that sometimes the steps in the cycle need to be done TWICE to fully reset all OBD indicators
C) When in truly dire straits, I have asked the dealer to reflash the vehicle ECU, and from there, the readiness will test reset cleanly (it is almost like sometimes one or more of them can get 'hung up' and just won't reset... reflashing the ECU is like rebooting the machine...).
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.
Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may interchange.
Routine will be discontinued whenever:
Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
Large fluctuations in throttle angle
Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
To the above I would add a few key points:
A) Engine must start from truly cold... best let the car sit outside overnight (there is a minimum coolant temp needed for OBD cycle to run, I forgot what that is...)
B) I have found that sometimes the steps in the cycle need to be done TWICE to fully reset all OBD indicators
C) When in truly dire straits, I have asked the dealer to reflash the vehicle ECU, and from there, the readiness will test reset cleanly (it is almost like sometimes one or more of them can get 'hung up' and just won't reset... reflashing the ECU is like rebooting the machine...).
Last edited by golfnutintib; 04-04-2016 at 12:31 PM.
#11
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Are all the rest of the readiness set? If they are and the only one not set is sec air then something is not right secondary air should set after a dead cold start and it only takes one cycle to set...unless it's not a pass.
Check air pump operation
Check vacuum system for leaks
Check shut of valve operation
Check o2 sensor operation
Check flow through system into exhaust.
Check air pump operation
Check vacuum system for leaks
Check shut of valve operation
Check o2 sensor operation
Check flow through system into exhaust.
#12
Rennlist Member
I tried all these fancy drive cycle processes and they didn't work. Just drive the car. It took about 3 days of just driving the car "normally".
You can get a cheapy ODBII code reader that does emissions readiness checks and should tell you if you're all set or not.
BTW, secondary air set quicker on my, EVAP was a major pain
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-to-clear.html
You can get a cheapy ODBII code reader that does emissions readiness checks and should tell you if you're all set or not.
BTW, secondary air set quicker on my, EVAP was a major pain
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...-to-clear.html
#13
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
cheers everyone!
#14
Need help, please:
Replaced my OEM exhaust with an used Akrapovic system, and failed CA smog. Many months prior to fail, Check Engine light came on. This was diagnosed as "MA001 CAT efficiency below threshhold, bank 2" error message, and my dealer cleared it for me.
Subsequently, I got the Durametric and cleared all fault codes when it came up again. Prior to the failed smog test, I warmed up for 5 minutes, and drove the car for approximately 30 miles, but drove it in all RPM ranges. The smog station stated it failed due to aftermarket cats.
Should I clear again, and do as golfnutintib suggests? Or is ECU reflash necessary? I am not that familiar with the Durametric yet, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Replaced my OEM exhaust with an used Akrapovic system, and failed CA smog. Many months prior to fail, Check Engine light came on. This was diagnosed as "MA001 CAT efficiency below threshhold, bank 2" error message, and my dealer cleared it for me.
Subsequently, I got the Durametric and cleared all fault codes when it came up again. Prior to the failed smog test, I warmed up for 5 minutes, and drove the car for approximately 30 miles, but drove it in all RPM ranges. The smog station stated it failed due to aftermarket cats.
Should I clear again, and do as golfnutintib suggests? Or is ECU reflash necessary? I am not that familiar with the Durametric yet, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Need help, please:
Replaced my OEM exhaust with an used Akrapovic system, and failed CA smog. Prior to fail, Check Engine light came on. This was diagnosed as "MA001 CAT efficiency below threshhold, bank 2" error message, and my dealer cleared it for me.
Subsequently, I got the Durametric and cleared all fault codes when it came up again. I warmed up for 5 minutes, and drove the car for approximately 30 miles, but drove it in all RPM ranges. This is when I failed.
Should I clear again, and do as golfnutintib suggests? Or is ECU reflash necessary? I am not that familiar with the Durametric yet, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Replaced my OEM exhaust with an used Akrapovic system, and failed CA smog. Prior to fail, Check Engine light came on. This was diagnosed as "MA001 CAT efficiency below threshhold, bank 2" error message, and my dealer cleared it for me.
Subsequently, I got the Durametric and cleared all fault codes when it came up again. I warmed up for 5 minutes, and drove the car for approximately 30 miles, but drove it in all RPM ranges. This is when I failed.
Should I clear again, and do as golfnutintib suggests? Or is ECU reflash necessary? I am not that familiar with the Durametric yet, so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
that ECU fault code typically indicates that the ECU metrics (that form part of the new smog test) have not had enough time to recalibrate - this is what failed me, Sonnen reset that and I passed...