Failing Ca Smog: Secondary Air, not ready
#16
Larry, thank you for the quick response.
Just looked up mileage. Smog was done approximately 1,800 miles after Akra install. Check Engine light came on approx. 900 miles after install. 21,000 total miles.
Can this be reset with the Durametric? If so, anyone know how? Thank you.
Just looked up mileage. Smog was done approximately 1,800 miles after Akra install. Check Engine light came on approx. 900 miles after install. 21,000 total miles.
Can this be reset with the Durametric? If so, anyone know how? Thank you.
#17
Rennlist Member
Are you in CA?
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
#18
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Are you in CA?
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Larry, thank you for the quick response.
Just looked up mileage. Smog was done approximately 1,800 miles after Akra install. Check Engine light came on approx. 900 miles after install. 21,000 total miles.
Can this be reset with the Durametric? If so, anyone know how? Thank you.
Just looked up mileage. Smog was done approximately 1,800 miles after Akra install. Check Engine light came on approx. 900 miles after install. 21,000 total miles.
Can this be reset with the Durametric? If so, anyone know how? Thank you.
#20
Rennlist Member
a durametric can reset the CEL
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#22
Rennlist Member
NO it cannot run a 'short test' to set those indicators. The PIWIS can do this for some indicators, but not all. I think EVAP it wouldn't set even with a short test. Took drive cycles.
Basically, those indicators have to be set with drive cycles OR 'some' can be short-tested with a PIWIS.
Basically, those indicators have to be set with drive cycles OR 'some' can be short-tested with a PIWIS.
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
NO it cannot run a 'short test' to set those indicators. The PIWIS can do this for some indicators, but not all. I think EVAP it wouldn't set even with a short test. Took drive cycles.
Basically, those indicators have to be set with drive cycles OR 'some' can be short-tested with a PIWIS.
Basically, those indicators have to be set with drive cycles OR 'some' can be short-tested with a PIWIS.
#24
Mental note to self....never register any high performance car in CA.
#25
Are you in CA?
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
You will fail either due to visual (aftermarket cats) or the code not set (cat readiness).
200 cell cats may or may not set efficiency readiness. You could try an extender. But, if you are failing due to visual you need stock cats on there. some shops are more **** about the visual than others. had my 89 smogged a few months ago and he didn't even both to look under the car.
Oh, the cat efficient set / indicator will either set (and clear) or fail and trigger a CEL on the dash. It takes sometimes 20--30 miles, sometimes longer.
I'll drive some more after clearing, and if that fails, I'll do the PIWIS route. Thank you all!
#26
Rennlist Member
ok but here's the thing. if your O2 sensors are reading high PIWIS won't be able to force the pass.
you'll need spacers or OEM cats that will allow the computer to set.
you'll need spacers or OEM cats that will allow the computer to set.
#27
Rennlist Member
My GT3 is due for CA smog and I'm facing the same dilemma (EVAP and Secondary Air not ready). No dead battery or disconnect. I just haven't driven it lately accept for my drive to the smog station (about 10 freeway miles away with a full tank of gas). I understand EVAP only is okay for CA smog. My question, can the dealer reset "Secondary Air not ready" with PIWIS while the engine is still hot or does it need to be cold for that too? I just don't want to waste more time with this than I have to or do drive cycles.
#28
Rennlist Member
My GT3 is due for CA smog and I'm facing the same dilemma (EVAP and Secondary Air not ready). No dead battery or disconnect. I just haven't driven it lately accept for my drive to the smog station (about 10 freeway miles away with a full tank of gas). I understand EVAP only is okay for CA smog. My question, can the dealer reset "Secondary Air not ready" with PIWIS while the engine is still hot or does it need to be cold for that too? I just don't want to waste more time with this than I have to or do drive cycles.
#29
Rennlist Member
I haven't been to the dealer yet to run diagnostics. My printout of the failed smog check (last Saturday) states OBDII not ready and lists Evaporative System and Secondary Air System. Everything else is listed as PASS. Wouldn't a bad O2 sensor trigger the check engine light?
Anyway, the guy at the smog station recommended to drive it more and also referred to driving cycles. Based on the mixed results other owners had with this method (see this and other threads) it looks like this can be a hit-or-miss. I just don't want to waste time and put slow miles on my car only to find out it didn't work
Larry Cable above (post #23) states that PIWIS worked for him. So I was thinking a trip to my dealer could fix this quickly unless the engine needs to be completely cold for that?
I'm in a bit of a predicament because my registration expires on February 12 (didn't expect it to fail).
Thanks for your help guys.
Anyway, the guy at the smog station recommended to drive it more and also referred to driving cycles. Based on the mixed results other owners had with this method (see this and other threads) it looks like this can be a hit-or-miss. I just don't want to waste time and put slow miles on my car only to find out it didn't work
Larry Cable above (post #23) states that PIWIS worked for him. So I was thinking a trip to my dealer could fix this quickly unless the engine needs to be completely cold for that?
I'm in a bit of a predicament because my registration expires on February 12 (didn't expect it to fail).
Thanks for your help guys.
#30
Rennlist Member
I haven't been to the dealer yet to run diagnostics. My printout of the failed smog check (last Saturday) states OBDII not ready and lists Evaporative System and Secondary Air System. Everything else is listed as PASS. Wouldn't a bad O2 sensor trigger the check engine light?
Anyway, the guy at the smog station recommended to drive it more and also referred to driving cycles. Based on the mixed results other owners had with this method (see this and other threads) it looks like this can be a hit-or-miss. I just don't want to waste time and put slow miles on my car only to find out it didn't work
Larry Cable above (post #23) states that PIWIS worked for him. So I was thinking a trip to my dealer could fix this quickly unless the engine needs to be completely cold for that?
I'm in a bit of a predicament because my registration expires on February 12 (didn't expect it to fail).
Thanks for your help guys.
Anyway, the guy at the smog station recommended to drive it more and also referred to driving cycles. Based on the mixed results other owners had with this method (see this and other threads) it looks like this can be a hit-or-miss. I just don't want to waste time and put slow miles on my car only to find out it didn't work
Larry Cable above (post #23) states that PIWIS worked for him. So I was thinking a trip to my dealer could fix this quickly unless the engine needs to be completely cold for that?
I'm in a bit of a predicament because my registration expires on February 12 (didn't expect it to fail).
Thanks for your help guys.
You can manage all this this for $30...or pay Porsche $300 this is one of those things that buying your own ODB2 scanner on Amazon will save you a lot of $ and time.
EVAP is actually an 'easier' one to set you don't need to do the full drive cycle... if I remember right you have to 'cold start', idle for 3 minutes, drive around for 10 minutes under 30mph (never exceed 3000rpm), idle and then shutoff... don't take my memory for it though forums have lots of info on this.
You can leave your ODB2 plugged in actually and see it 'set' the emissions as it 'ready's
Last edited by Wonderdan; 02-01-2022 at 03:41 PM.