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Fletcher Jones can force the sensors as well as handle smog. If it has a tune some tunes disable secondary o2 and then you need to go back to the original file.
For secondary air to set (engine cold engine) you can turn the ignition key without the clutch in so the car does not start wait 30 seconds (with the key in the run position, not start) and you should hear some actuation going on in the rear, start her up and let idle for 10min. Check with a obdii scanner and it should be set.
Also just pay your reg fees and deal with the smog when you can.
Originally Posted by Medicopter
I haven't been to the dealer yet to run diagnostics. My printout of the failed smog check (last Saturday) states OBDII not ready and lists Evaporative System and Secondary Air System. Everything else is listed as PASS. Wouldn't a bad O2 sensor trigger the check engine light?
Anyway, the guy at the smog station recommended to drive it more and also referred to driving cycles. Based on the mixed results other owners had with this method (see this and other threads) it looks like this can be a hit-or-miss. I just don't want to waste time and put slow miles on my car only to find out it didn't work
Larry Cable above (post #23) states that PIWIS worked for him. So I was thinking a trip to my dealer could fix this quickly unless the engine needs to be completely cold for that?
I'm in a bit of a predicament because my registration expires on February 12 (didn't expect it to fail).
Okay, thank you so much! No tune on my car. I just ordered the OBDII scanner from Amazon. It will be delivered tomorrow Wednesday. I will follow your idle procedure to set secondary air and report back...
I have never been to Fletcher Jones (Jamboree/Newport Beach). Do they smog in-house or do they take it somewhere?
@Wonderdan: Thank you for your input as well. I will keep it in mind.
Thought you where Bay Area, not sure which dealer in socal would do smog.
Medicopter as in? This is Lucile Packard Children's (Stanford)
Originally Posted by Medicopter
Okay, thank you so much! No tune on my car. I just ordered the OBDII scanner from Amazon. It will be delivered tomorrow Wednesday. I will follow your idle procedure to set secondary air and report back...
I have never been to Fletcher Jones (Jamboree/Newport Beach). Do they smog in-house or do they take it somewhere?
@Wonderdan: Thank you for your input as well. I will keep it in mind.
I was able to do a cold start this morning with 10 min at idle followed by engine shutdown. Unfortunately there was no change (before/after) as you can see in the first screenshot. Then I went for a mixed drive (including freeway) and came back with a pending DTC (second screenshot).
Does this mean I need to see my dealer (third screenshot)? Should I do another cold start tomorrow morning and go for another drive or would it not change anything and just be a waste of time? I assume O2 sensor and secondary air are related? Thanks again for your advice.
One last question, do pending diagnostic codes clear if all checks out okay or do they remain stored and need to be cleared?
Not a dealer issue if you don’t want it to be, do you feel comfy changing a oxygen sensor? It’s prob a 3/10 job, just screws in to the header and connects right next to the airbox.
i think that’s bank 1 sensor 1 which is good because that prob means it’s not a failed cat… bad news is it’s a $138 sensor and it’s best to replace both at the same time… crappy news is that I read a dirty MAF sensor can also trigger this…
O2 part number is 9A1-606-168-03-M14
Your code prob shows under perm faults and will clear itself… to your point though I still doubt this issue is keeping your EVAP from setting. It took me like 3 attempts to get mine to set when I was
‘trying’. Anytime your rpms pass the threshold for even a second then you ruined your chances till the next cold start. Are you saying you shut off the car after the cold start before driving it?
If you don’t have CEL do not clear your codes because you’ll have to start over driving around to get all the other things that are already “ready”
Thanks Wonderdan. Unfortunately I'm not equipped at home to perform work on my car from underneath. Yes, I did shut down the engine after it idled for 10 min to check readiness again (I probably shouldn't have?). You are correct, it is almost impossible to keep the RPM below 3000. It feels like I'm lugging the engine
Where to from here? Should I do another cold start in the morning and drive it again without a long idle or shutdown? Would it help?
By the way, I think I never mentioned this on Rennlist. I'm the original owner of this car (18700 miles). It has the exclusive black DZL package.
Ya your evap needs you to cold start, idle, then drive around under 3k for a bit and then idle and shut off. It’s actually easy if you just do quick errands with it for a few days… you’ll set it.
Replacing those 02 sensors I think would be under $1000 from a dealer and they can use the PIWIS to reset.
Update: Drove it again this morning but no luck except the pending code from yesterday disappeared on its own. Now showing zero codes. EVAP and Secondary Air are still flagged.
Question: When the dealer uses PIWIS to force the monitors to reset does the engine need to be cold for that as well? I don't want to leave my car there overnight,
Anything else I could do or check at this point? I tried to mimic the driving cycles as close as possible and when I turn the ignition key without starting the engine I can here all the noises in the usual places.
Update: Drove it again this morning but no luck except the pending code from yesterday disappeared on its own. Now showing zero codes. EVAP and Secondary Air are still flagged.
Question: When the dealer uses PIWIS to force the monitors to reset does the engine need to be cold for that as well? I don't want to leave my car there overnight.
Anything else I could do or check at this point? I tried to mimic the driving cycles as close as possible and when I turn the ignition key without starting the engine I can here all the noises in the usual places.
If your emissions test is soon you can email them and tell them you had work done… they will give you a few more months.
If you have no permanent codes then it’s prob just a drive cycle, which you’ll get eventually. It’s like getting your wife pregnant… stop thinking about it for a few days and it may surprise you
I guess I did forget to tell you that Porsche will only set when your gas tank is between 1/4 and 3/4… also make sure your gas cap is tight.
If your emissions test is soon you can email them and tell them you had work done… they will give you a few more months.
If you have no permanent codes then it’s prob just a drive cycle, which you’ll get eventually. It’s like getting your wife pregnant… stop thinking about it for a few days and it may surprise you
I guess I did forget to tell you that Porsche will only set when your gas tank is between 1/4 and 3/4… also make sure your gas cap is tight.
Ha ha... so true
My fuel tank is now below 3/4 (started out with an almost full tank). I already checked the gas cap. I will do one more time the 10 min at idle as per FLT6SPD. If it doesn't work I will have to schedule with my dealer. I also found this image below which was posted here. Just to confirm, PIWIS is not required for this to work? Will I be able to use my scanner to see if it set to "Ready" after 10 minutes while the engine is still running at idle? Thanks.
Prior to starting the driving cycle ensure your Porsche's fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full. Also do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph during any portion of the drive cycle.
A. Start your Porsche 911 and let it idle for approximately 2 1/2 minutes. This will allow the ECU to diagnose oxygen sensor aging; meaning the computer will be monitoring the oxygen sensor warm-up period and reaction to rising exhaust temperatures. During this period the ECU is also testing the Secondary Air Injection system. B. Begin driving. Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain your speed for 3 1/2 minutes. The ECU will be testing catalytic converter efficiency. C. Next, accelerate to 40-60 MPH. Once again maintain steady speed, this time for approximately 15 minutes. The EVAP system is now being tested along with adaptation range (2) and the oxygen sensor (switching). D. Decelerate and come to a complete stop. If equipped with a manual transmission, idle in neutral for 3 minutes. If equipped with an automatic Tiptronic transmission, idle in drive (D) for 3 minutes. Adaptation range (2) is now being tested E. Repeat steps B through D. Drive cycle complete.
You have to follow this exactly. Also, drive at 55mph for 3 minutes as part of part C (not an additional 3 minutes, but 3 minutes out of the 15 minutes).
Easier said than done ... I usually do these late at night when traffic is light. Be sure to watch your throttle inputs and RPM. Light throttle angle ONLY, and RPMs have to be kept below 3k AT ALL TIMES!
Thanks for your input lawrence1. I came across this drive cycle information as well. When you come to a complete stop and idle for 3 minutes, does it require an engine shutdown as well before repeating steps B through D?
1) Is the proper fuel level critical for EVAP only or is it also important for other monitors like secondary air?
2) Does a cold start followed by 10 minutes at idle apply to short testing with PIWIS only or should secondary air set without it as well?
3) When does the computer actually write into memory that a specific monitor set to "ready"? At the time it occurred? After a specific time at idle? After engine shutdown? After a complete drive cycle only?
I have no fault codes but that probably means nothing.
02-01-2022, 03:43 PM
