Is this plug and play for a .1 gt3?

 

DSC is plug and play in a .1. It’s a huge improvement over the standard controller’s settings.

 

v3 is for a 991.x

 

+1

 

Bought a used unit that has a custom tune from nine excellence in the UK for a GT2. I fitted the unit to my 987S and unsurprisingly found the settings too firm. I downloaded the tuning software and the file but I cannot get communication between the PC and the controller. I've reinstalled the drivers, checked the com port, tried 2 different cables, disabled the firewall but no dice.
Anyone got any ideas where I'm going wrong before I send it back to 9e?

 

getting the drivers setup correctly can be tricky they are a little sensitive!

are you "sure" you have checked the COM port AND baud rate settings in the tuning app?

I dont recall if you have to have the cars ignition on or not, I thought not.

did you make sure the h/w and f/w with the used unit were 987 compatible, did you get any PASM faults while installed?

I suggest that you remove the unit from the car and try connecting to it from the comfort of not your garage or driveway!

good luck

 

Count me in as another satisfied DSC customer! I went by TPC just after Christmas and picked up a controller for my 997.1S from the famous @Tom@TPC Racing (as well as maybe Jordan - didn't get a name). Tom loaded a more AutoX-focused map onto my box (5% stiffer in Sport, he said) and I was good to go.

An electrician friend and I installed it yesterday, which as others have noted is a bit of a PITA because there isn't a lot of slack in the wiring loom and there isn't a lot of space down there. We (he) ended up cutting the wires and soldering them together with the DSC wires, then finishing with heat wrap and tape. If we had had a different set of strippers we could have done it without cutting the wires, but we couldn't have used the heat wrap. He reckoned it didn't matter much either way. The DSC black ground has an eyelet on it, so like @Matt Meeks we put it under the lowest driver-side HVAC screw instead of splicing the fat brown wire. Voltmeter showed a good ground.

The car is on storage insurance, but I wanted to make sure we weren't on full-stiff so I took it around the block while terrified of other cars. Wow, what a difference. Even from a few minutes, I could tell I have a whole new car:

• Turn in is more direct and immediate.
• The car handles rough surfaces so much better.
• Body roll is significantly decreased. The car corners flat now, but with none of the high-speed bouncing that I associate with stiff but over-sprung cars.
• The power is clearly getting to the ground, as I found out while oversteering out of a stop sign (being on PS4Ss and it being 30 degrees didn't help either).
• I slammed on the brakes and there is almost no dive, at least at lower speed. At AutoX events this last year I could tap the nose in the right conditions and I am excited for the sake of my bumper that this will be reduced.
• There is now a real difference between Normal and Sport instead of one just being bumpier and crashier.
• The ride just feels grown-up and refined now in a way that modernizes the ride so much.

I can't wait to get the car out of storage in March (I hope) and drive it more! My wife might even ride in it again.

My main concern now is whether to take the box out for autocross - the car is otherwise stock but I think DSC would put me into a modified class my car has no business being in. Oh well, my PAX times are a small price to pay for this.

Thanks again @DSC Sport !

 

thanks for the reply. Pretty sure I checked everything at least twice. Or more.... I've emailed TPC. We'll see what happens.

 

I am not an IT expert. I am a below average computer user at best. Anyway, from my experience, COMM Port selection is the most common item to establish comm. Sometimes the program needs to be closed and re-open for the selection to sync to the USB driver, and sometimes the computer needs to be restarted for the USB driver to sync to the program. Because computers and programs in general aren't perfect. Every computer's settings are different so there isn't a universal one for all fix. I think it helps to close other programs to prevent having too many programs running at the same time. The DSC controller can be communicated to without being in the car, which is how they got programmed and tested before they were boxed and shipped. The two final items I can add before I run out of cards are:

1. Windows have a feature they added in recent years called "S mode", which only allows programs from their own company to run. Here's more on S mode:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...ion=Windows_11

2. In the DSC website's Support Page, Support item #2 shows the most common solutions:
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/...ion=Windows_11

PS- Thank you for your support, LC!

 

OK I tried another computer and it worked first time. Took about 3 minutes.

 

So I went for a test drive and it didn't seem to be any different from stock. I saw the video 'is my DSC controller working' and decided to try the datalogger. Everything seemed to be logging as the video described. Had no error messages and it switched from normal to sport OK.
I started to check the wiring to the accelerometer. I had earthed the unit to the chassis using the tag. I'd checked it with a multimeter and It showed 12v. I removed the earth and soldered it into the circuit rather that bolting it down.
That did it. Suddenly someone had smoothed all the roads out and banked all the corners. The roads around here are cold and greasy so I didn't do a high g force test. That pleasure will have to wait.
Bit surprised there's no error message if the accelerometer isn't working but luckily I figured it out.
The only other question I have is - there are 2 calibration files for the 987 - one says 987 all years and the other says 987/997/GT3 etc. Anyone know the difference between the two?

 

Glad you've got it working! Where did you have the ground connected before?

 

@Ninesomething were you able to see something in the logs that indicated if it was working or now after you felt the difference? I'd like to validate mine as well.

 

No - I didn't datalog again after I did the ground. I test-drove it and the difference was immediately apparent. I put the earth tag on the screw that holds the little carpeted piece of trim on. I tested it with a multimeter and it showed a circuit but it can't have been good enough. After that I spliced into the brown wire from the 12v power socket down in the footwell. That worked.
My plan if that didn't work was to datalog driving it quite hard round a sharp bend. If it's working properly the outer two shocks should show a higher voltage than the inner two. If it were only working on the standard accelerometer they would all be the same.