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Thanks for sharing, Tom. Lots of good knowledge/experience in there.
Originally Posted by rbahr
Hi Tom,
Glad you found your problem. Like you, I am unable to detect a failing wheel bearing, a pretty bad one is easy! As an FYI, I have also seen a failing wheel hub look just like a wheel bearing problem!
On the bright side this thing will stop on a dime now!
Tom, did you check for rotor run out? I wonder if my wheel bearings are bad as well (but I LFB to set my pads when I'm on track). Also curious, how much additional wear you see with the springs.
No, I didn't have time to check rotor run out. I did put the rotors on a machinist table when there were new and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. It has been my experience that on solid rotors run out greater than 0.010" will cause shuttering during braking from the high spot of the run out(feels exactly like a warped rotor). These rotors have zero shuttering, once the pads are set they are so smooth and the modulation and grip is so good its like braking heaven. Also, these are floating rotors, the amount of float is definitely greater than 0.010". I only did two track days since the springs were installed and didn't see any abnormal pad wear. One thing I did immediately after installing the springs was to roll the car in a parking lot- The car rolls perfectly fine with the springs with me pushing, and on a slight hill the car rolls on its own, rolling down a hill the car reacts immediate and distinctively as I tap the brake pedal, so any drag from the 6-lb springs is too low to cause additional wear.
Data point on the wheel bearings- I replaced all four wheel bearings in February 2016. Have 25 track days(around 8K combined street and track miles) so far. About half of those track days were on Nitto NT01's, the other half on Hoosier R7's. Only the right front wheel bearing has play at one particular spot.
For reference, 997 Cup on slicks we replace wheel bearings every 20-30 hours, can be more frequent depending on conditions.
No, I didn't have time to check rotor run out. I did put the rotors on a machinist table when there were new and didn't see anything out of the ordinary. It has been my experience that on solid rotors run out greater than 0.010" will cause shuttering during braking from the high spot of the run out(feels exactly like a warped rotor). These rotors have zero shuttering, once the pads are set they are so smooth and the modulation and grip is so good its like braking heaven. Also, these are floating rotors, the amount of float is definitely greater than 0.010". I only did two track days since the springs were installed and didn't see any abnormal pad wear. One thing I did immediately after installing the springs was to roll the car in a parking lot- The car rolls perfectly fine with the springs with me pushing, and on a slight hill the car rolls on its own, rolling down a hill the car reacts immediate and distinctively as I tap the brake pedal, so any drag from the 6-lb springs is too low to cause additional wear.
Data point on the wheel bearings- I replaced all four wheel bearings in February 2016. Have 25 track days(around 8K combined street and track miles) so far. About half of those track days were on Nitto NT01's, the other half on Hoosier R7's. Only the right front wheel bearing has play at one particular spot.
For reference, 997 Cup on slicks we replace wheel bearings every 20-30 hours, can be more frequent depending on conditions.
Thanks Tom. Ugh, sounds like it's wheel bearing time for me as well! How much work am I looking at? I'm spoiled by the Miata...literally a 15 minute job
More pics from Jack @ EuroPros. The lid went on seamlessly thanks to Jack's superb work. He's just about to warp things up on his end and send the roller back to me.
Went to the body shop to collect the seats and roll bar since I took them out while the car was there. Once I get the roller I can start putting her back together. I wish it would stop raining! This is the wettest year on record here in Maryland.
Meanwhile out at the west coast Getty Design is making a 997.2 Cup replica decklid for me. Here it is in the mold. Same as the other decklid I opted for the GT2 twin-ram air tunnels.
I should be getting very busy real soon!
I've just read this thread from beginning to end (took a few days!), and I have to take my hat off to you Tom. Your passion, determination, dedication, enthusiasm, and can-do attitude are a lesson to us all.
You now have another avid follower across the pond.
I've just read this thread from beginning to end (took a few days!), and I have to take my hat off to you Tom. Your passion, determination, dedication, enthusiasm, and can-do attitude are a lesson to us all.
You now have another avid follower across the pond.
Bravo, and keep up the good work
Thank you for reading this thread and for your kind words. I appreciate all the encouragements from this community for the road ahead to making my car whole again. I am very much looking forward to getting my car back from the body shop, and for trade show season to conclude, not that I don't enjoy working the trade shows, I am just eager to put my car back together and for the next round of mods! In the meantime I've been collecting parts. Here's sneak peak of my stash before I head out to Indianapolis for the PRI show today.
Howdy Tom! What are you going to do with with four OEM center mufflers, at least one of which appears to be titanium, and three OEM tips?? Regardless I'm one of the many that can't wait to see you and your car back on track. Best Josh
11-13-2018, 09:31 AM
