bmwtye

How far do the Tarrett 82.5mm stick out?

nwGTS

^^^ depends on the wheel hub size/depth and if you are using spacers. ira sent me a doc with the info on thread and end nub length but can't find it. he'll have the total thread length if you ping him.
i think it's 15mm into the hub then the gap for the rotor is 12mm (maybe 10?) subtract spacer mm, the mm of wheel hub depth and 12-14mm for torqued nut threads and the remaining will be exposed. sry if this isn't helpful

Gadsby

i purchased from apex last season, good question, I could use more nuts?

Apex996

>> what is wrong with titanium studs?

They gall.

>> apex still open?

Yes, still open. Just found your emails in the junk mail folder. Junk filter goes haywire occasionally.

bergx7

THIS.

Happy msi customer here too. They will build whatever custom size you need. I have had studs fail, but never an msi stud. FWIW

AWay

Does MSI offer black wheel nuts? The yellow and pink coatings, while I'm sure functional, are a bit loud for my taste.

powdrhound

Over 5 years of hard track use with German H&R studs I've had zero issues, zero failures. My shop uses these on all their race cars..

runet

Ok, thank you.

I have this set http://www.world-motorsports.com/tit...-stud-kit.html and will install them and see how they fare. I'll provide feedback after some use and let people know if they hold up well or if I have any issues.

bmwtye

Same question here. I'd be happy with black or silver colored

bergx7

yes they have coatings that aren't yellow/pink. I felt the same way so went with black studs/nuts. HM-30 is the coating I believe. The pink/yellow coated ones are even more "slippery" but really not needed unless you are a NASCAR pit crew and need the high visibility and ability to spin off a wheel in about a second.

needmoregarage

Was reading this thread last week for no particular reason.

Today - did brake fluid system flush at friends house (Bill - it was DKP) and first:
- I break loose all wheel nuts
- I use "drill" to remove all wheel nuts
- FOUR wheel studs come out (two from right rear, one from right front, one from left front
- me: WTF!!

Then we check the remaining studs and another FOUR are finger tight - I un-screw them and remove them.

My friend removes ALL and hubby goes home to dig up OEM bolts/nuts.

Lots of rust on the wheel studs and nuts.

After close inspection - realized they did not fit my OEM wheels (as Bill points out in post #23 in this thread.) I can see where the nuts did not properly seat or mate into the OEM "cup", and the result is lots of rust.

We did the brake fluid in anticipation of the Glen in a few weeks. I always check torque and would have figured out that I was losing torque, and that would have made me get help, and our dealer is there supporting the event and they would have figured it out. I would have lost a track weekend unless someone had a spare set of bolts/nuts.

Very glad to have discovered this with DKP's help! For now I'm going back to the OEM set-up. As much as I like wheel studs because it's easier to work on the car - I'll forgo them for now in favor of the OEM parts which I'm confident are safe.

I'll be calling APEX-COMP (Bill) to discuss and get his thoughts.

At least I found out before I got onto the track.... could have gotten ugly if I wasn't attentive to torque (but I'm always attentive to the details so I think I would've caught it before disaster struck).

After measuring it's apparent the neck of the nut is wider so it can't possibly fully mate with the wheel. It's hard to tell if the shape/taper is correct. Looks close - but with the width too large it doesn't matter. It won't seat properly.

note the configuration is strictly for side by side photo

needmoregarage

One additional point - with two dissimilar metals in contact with each other - there is corrosion that leaches into the weaker of the two metals.

Rust got into the wheels at the bolt opening. It took quite a bit of elbow grease and chemicals to remove it. I didn't take photos but almost all the attachment points had rust that simple metal cleaner couldn't remove.

AWay

I have used Apex Competition 'track studs' (not MSI) on three Porsches now using both OEM and aftermarket wheels on all and their studs/nuts have never let me down or give reason to look elsewhere. You originally called out yours as MSI but then redacted all mention of MSI from your original post so I'm not sure which studs you actually have there?

You can clearly see in that photo above that the ball seat taper is different. I wonder if you got weird batch as I'm certain plenty of others run both MSI and Apex with no troubles.

Weirdsies indeed.

needmoregarage

I am double checking on brand.
I had MSI on my Cayman R (OEM wheels) with zero issues.
I now have a GT4 with OEM wheels.

needmoregarage

Confirmed they are MSI studs and nuts. I'm backtracking to find out what went wrong - as you mentioned maybe I got part of the "weird" batch.

Thanks for the input. I'm sticking with OEM fasteners for the foreseeable future.