It's not.

 

3.8RS are selling at higher prices, the days of $115k-$125k 3.8 GT3 RS are long gone. To buy 3.8RS today, budget is $135k-$155k.

upgrading a 3.8RS to 4.0RS engine specs takes $30k. The Carbon hood and fenders another $15k, end result is a $180k-$200k 3.8 RS that just lost value on resale with the modified engine.

The 4.0RS is that much better.

 

I'm glad you said that
The 4.0 is great, but.
And a $200k track car?
If I'm lucky enough to get one, I'm not sure I'll risk it to the same extent as the 3.8. Of course, at $150k, the 3.8 is not exactly expendable ... : )

 

It's worth $200k, and I have offers in.
Just not worth $80k more then a 3.8, but I want one anyway...

This might be a deal
http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...21542154&Log=0

 

That GT2RS is perfect...has roll bar everything...red looks awesome too...my personally favorite.

 

I don't like red...

 

Check out Tyson's corner Porsche I think they have a GT2RS for $199,900 all black. It's got almost 11,000 miles on it but still should be Certified

 

Not certified and had damage. I made an offer....

 

I'm always skeptical about damage but that black on black is just fantastic. A true widow maker! What are the details about the damage?

 

re. GT2 RS, I agree it's the better financial proposition if that's the car you want to track. My caveat would be to buy directly from the first owner private seller -- aside from price advantage, getting a "good one" (4.0 or 2RS) will be underwritten by knowing the owner, measuring him or her as an enthusiast and conscientious driver, and by not having had a 620hp 911 in the hands of a dealer or the detailer or the dent-pro guy, etc.

 

The black on had all body panels replaced on one side. The price is ok for the mileage but not low enough for a damaged car.

 

Definitely I prefer to buy the seller, not the car...
I know a car with 2000 miles and lots of over revs. That might not do anything to the car on itself, but it does mean a hack drove it.

Sold my car with 18k miles and only 48 ignitions in type 1. So there goes the myth that type 1 is caused by hitting the rev limiter.

 

Interesting. I had my car CPO checked for sale and the service manager reported zero over-revs, which I questions and he checked it again to confirm. I know I've brushed up against the rev-limiter and I think I've seen the warning flash on the tach in peripheral vision.

Funnily enough, there's a buyer looking for a Carrera GT in that forum and asking if 100's of type 2's are okay ... yikes!

 

so will a car get CPO'd if it has Type 1s or type 2s? been checking a few places for a GT3rs and just need to get some of the finer points down

 

CPO means nothing, only that you have longer warranty IMHO.