CRex

Clarke--great writeup! If I had something like this earlier I would've switched to Hoosiers much sooner!

In terms of heat cycles, I'm with you that R6's can easily last 20HCs. The first 4-5 are obviously the best where they stick like bubble-gum. The next 15 or so are rather even, down minimally from their prime. From then on the grip starts heading towards a cliff--understeer in the front, snap oversteer from the back, all sorts of ailments. The cliff was around 20 on my first set, around 25 my next. My most recent set saw almost 30. Then again I agree with you--one needs to LEARN to drive around different tire conditions.

On flipping, I did the same rotating the wheels from left to right and finally flipping them inside out. Problem is these tires don't like being run in a different direction--they vibrate quite a bit once they're run in the opposite direction and warmed up. Sometimes you can tire-balance out the shimmies, sometimes not. It got so bad on my recent run that the yellow stripe on my steering wheel was literally dancing around. Suffice to say I chucked those tires immediately--it was close to their 30th HC, and up till their "in" lap they were still chasing a 993 Cup RSR and clocking decent times!

On pressure, you're spot on. I've not had good experience beyond 31/33psi. Generally I start with 27, work up the temps and bleed them down to a hot target of 30/31. IMO these tires get squirmy beyond 33.

I'm VERY happy with R6s and will likely stick with them for a long time (pun intended!). They're leagues above brand new DOT-R comps on their 15th heat cycle, not to mention lighter in construction. The only street tire that compares favorably may be the Trofeos, but then one set of those buys 2 of mine, and I sure get many more HC's out of my R6s!!

ewjax

I run 19" R6's on my .1 RS. P315/30ZR-19 & P235/35ZR-19. Had dealer put track alignment on car.

No problems as far as I know. I'm on my 3rd set.

I'm on a new set using this alignment, so don't know how many HC's I'll get. Already have 8 completed at Roebling, which tears up front left. Alternated sides and heading to Sebring this weekend.

I run 38 psi hot (29 cold) at Roebling. Not a lot of information about what would be best for the 19" R6's at Sebring. And if you thought 18" R6's were expensive, try 19s.

TRAKCAR

Clarke trying to justify cheating, LOL.

Just kidding, thanks for keeping track and posting here Clarke, tires are the most expensive part of running DE, so we are all keen to learn how to manage them.

I have run R6 255/40/18 and 345/35/18 without any rubbing.
They wear very good, much less of that inside wear we see on RA1's. Hoosiers cord right down the midle with -2.5 all around.

R6 is probably where we are going once the RA1's are gone.

For now we can't beat the $165.00ea 335 RA1's. We get about 4 days out of them, 6 if we flip them a couple of times. We also have to shave them $20.00 per tire.
Flipping tires on the rim is also not free for me. I want it done right at a race shop that check over the 3 piece BBS, balanced and good weights that don't fall off, but I agree they should be flipped on the rim after 2 track days, or about 8 HC ideally, but often I wait 4 days and only move wheels side to side. It is not enough, sometime I will cord on on the inside on day 4, plent of wear bar left. But at $165.00ea, that is OK. This is with -1.7 rear camber only. Front -2.5, even wear on both Toyo and R6.

Seems like we wear out about 2:1 R:F

-Still plenty of 335 RA1 around and they fit all RS. The fronts are gone, once our stash is gone, we will have to buy 245 Nitto NT01 (No need to shave), some are already running this. Nitto and RA1 have the same rubber, same factory I guess. The Nitto's are about $225.00ea

So cost for 4x RA1 + 2x Nitto = +/- $750 + $475 + 2 x rear flip $100.00 = $1325 for total of 8-12 days, 4 HC each. they are fast till they cord, the front HC out after about 12 days so ususlly replace them, but they have rubber left.

-When I ran R6 they were wearing much more even. And this was with -2.5 camber! I can see that an R6 rears will last us up to 6 days, but the rires are about $400.00 and need to be flipped 2x that is another $100.00.

So cost for 4x R6 rear and 2x R6 front = +/- $1600 + $700 + 4 x Rear flip 200 = $2500 for total of 8-12 days, 4 HC each.

Keep us posted!

Fritz Flynn

Subscribed

Are you counting Sly's cycles?

Veloce Raptor

Yup, every 28 days.

Oh wait....wrong thread...

Fritz Flynn

Ajjra

FFaust

+ 1 for tire management. Wouldn't have thought of going to 30psi, but will try it out.

Good write-up Clarke.

TRAKCAR

The RA1's offer better grip 32-34, but seem to wear better at 36PSI.
I ran my R6 at around 36, never tired 30-32PSI.

P.J.S.

30 hc Hoosiers are junk in a 3000 lb plus street car

50 hc r6 should be in the guiness book

lopro

subscribed to learn about tires

drl

I am also trying to determine how many HC I can get. I ran my last set up to 20 HC, and on my final sessions was doing fast consistent times, but not breaking my personal best. The grip at that point was not optimal but was not too bad. Fronts are shot from uneven wear due to off alignment (and I did not flip them side to side but should have), but I'm keeping rears as back up for track day this weekend.

I asked this question earlier and got answers all over the place: as low as 10 and as high as 20+. Tossing these tires at 10 HC seems crazy from my experience - that means each session is costing you around $170. I will happily slow down a little and deal with reduced grip in exchange for greater longevity and, I guess, learning good technique on slippery tires (to a point, dont' want to run them to where they are dangerously slippery). Those slower lap times on 20+HC will theoretically buy you faster lap times on fresh tires.

Carrera GT

If ever there was a well-worn topic, it's R6 vs Sport Cups, etc. Well worth searching back through threads to read the posts from people running the R6 on GT3's. I think it's very expensive to run Sport Cups and defeats the purpose of track driving the car for my interests. With moderate camber and appropriate ride height (which tends to pre-load spring rates a tad, but there's no getting around PASM-ness) the R6 is a great tire for the car and does well even in hot conditions trying to hold down the power and weight of a GT3 or RS. Be wary of ice pedal, which seems to be a predictable set of conditions when running stickier tires at optimum temps and various braking transition conditions that befuddle the ABS and require a complete lift and re-apply (not always as much fun as it sounds ...)

Carrera GT

If you pre-bake the Hooters, they will reward you with a tiny bit of extra grip in the first session and then maybe a whole day of extra life. I find three days and there's a lack of meat left in the rears anyway. I call it six sessions per day. So put them on for one session, as per instructions, put them in the trailer for at least two days, preferably a week, then they'll give three days of fun, maybe a forth day of "why not shred these" if the opportunity presents itself.

NJ-GT

Who said that? the 315/30R19 is a perfect fit, stock street tire sizes are good for stock street size driving, otherwise Porsche would be racing the cup cars in 235/35R19 and 305/30R19 and nothing else.