Gt3 owners with gt2 rear sway bar
12-09-2011, 02:14 PM
#61
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12-09-2011, 03:36 PM
#62
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dont know if you did this Paul , but its worth installing the ducts then outlining them with a sharpie onto the dust shields that gives you an "accurate" line to cut along ... they are so easy to put on/take off its worth
doing this step to get it "right"
p.s
I think there is a geneva convention that specifically excludes me from undertaking any sort of diy mechanic work ...
doing this step to get it "right"
p.s
I think there is a geneva convention that specifically excludes me from undertaking any sort of diy mechanic work ...
Positioning of duct for outlining with Sharpie:
Removal of shield and Sharpie outline ready to cut:
Final assembly showing area outlined in red that was removed:
It's pretty much a waste of time and money if you don't remove this bit of brake shielding.
Now back to the OT on GT2 sway bar in a GT3 997.1 (which I have also installed)
02-14-2012, 06:49 AM
#64
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In my experience, the GT2 bar allows you to run 'proper' camber settings, front and rear, that lead to even tire wear and hot track tempts across the tire face - thus not using camber to fix a bar problem - and thus over all grip is better - and, a better range of tire pressures work without basically leading to a slippery rear end - less camber, more grip and car turns without getting loose with too high rear temps.
The 'squirming' issue is basically solved by
- replacing the engine mounts (wevo or other)
- replacing rear suspension rubber (upper control arms, lower control arm Monoballs and caster pucks, toe arms
- the car will no longer squirm and will be 'much easier' to drive nearer the limit
I also believe re-valving the suspension to prevent all the weight from moving around is very helpful.
My car, with the GT2 bar on soft (firmer than OE hard), and front bar on middle of 5 holes, with all of the other above stuff done, is far, far easier to drive fast, works at a variety of tire temps with never the feeling that the rear will come around.
My current alignment is -2.2f, -1.75 rear, zero front toe, very even tire wear on the track, car turns, is neutral, and doesn't snap lose. I generally run 31-35 front hot, 34-38 rear - car has very good grip on track out.
In the beginning of my journey with this car, I tried alignment and tire pressures to find that good balance - but it was too knife edge if I made it work with tire pressures and with alignment only, the tires were just not getting equal wear across the tires so by definition you are leaving grip on the table.
That's my story.
The 'squirming' issue is basically solved by
- replacing the engine mounts (wevo or other)
- replacing rear suspension rubber (upper control arms, lower control arm Monoballs and caster pucks, toe arms
- the car will no longer squirm and will be 'much easier' to drive nearer the limit
I also believe re-valving the suspension to prevent all the weight from moving around is very helpful.
My car, with the GT2 bar on soft (firmer than OE hard), and front bar on middle of 5 holes, with all of the other above stuff done, is far, far easier to drive fast, works at a variety of tire temps with never the feeling that the rear will come around.
My current alignment is -2.2f, -1.75 rear, zero front toe, very even tire wear on the track, car turns, is neutral, and doesn't snap lose. I generally run 31-35 front hot, 34-38 rear - car has very good grip on track out.
In the beginning of my journey with this car, I tried alignment and tire pressures to find that good balance - but it was too knife edge if I made it work with tire pressures and with alignment only, the tires were just not getting equal wear across the tires so by definition you are leaving grip on the table.
That's my story.
which rear toe ??
which tyres size(s) ??
the choice of a limited camber is because you drive a lot on the streets ??
and consequently you are looking for a very even tyre wear ??
any other reason ??
don't you find it a little bit too weak for track use ??
thanks
02-14-2012, 07:08 PM
#65
Rennlist Member
It's not that tough, here's my depiction of this DIY despite my contravention of Geneva Convention!
Positioning of duct for outlining with Sharpie:
Removal of shield and Sharpie outline ready to cut:
Final assembly showing area outlined in red that was removed:
It's pretty much a waste of time and money if you don't remove this bit of brake shielding.
Now back to the OT on GT2 sway bar in a GT3 997.1 (which I have also installed)
Positioning of duct for outlining with Sharpie:
Removal of shield and Sharpie outline ready to cut:
Final assembly showing area outlined in red that was removed:
It's pretty much a waste of time and money if you don't remove this bit of brake shielding.
Now back to the OT on GT2 sway bar in a GT3 997.1 (which I have also installed)
02-14-2012, 07:16 PM
#66
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Good question, especially if you don't have a dremel tool and cutter discs at hand...
Either way, you are digging in that far to do the swap/cutting!
Either way, you are digging in that far to do the swap/cutting!
02-14-2012, 07:17 PM
#67
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02-16-2012, 11:54 PM
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does anyone know the how stiff/soft the Terett blade rear swey is vs. the rear gt2 or the stock rear bar?
Im trying to get an idea of where to set it up, i am not setting it up just yet but im doing research and learning how things work.
after reading this thread is would seem the concenses would be to run it at it's softest or nearst to soft.
I plan to buy the front one also - cant wait till winters over
Really interesting thread btw, everyones contribution here made for a interesting read.
Im trying to get an idea of where to set it up, i am not setting it up just yet but im doing research and learning how things work.
after reading this thread is would seem the concenses would be to run it at it's softest or nearst to soft.
I plan to buy the front one also - cant wait till winters over
Really interesting thread btw, everyones contribution here made for a interesting read.
03-30-2012, 10:39 PM
#70
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Larry, 997gt3north and fc-racer: I was at the track all day today, and you guys were 100% correct. This is the best "bang for the buck" modification for a 997.1 GT3. Understeer is gone, and it completely changes the track experience.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
03-31-2012, 01:51 PM
#71
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Not quite as cheap as the rear GT2 bar ... But well worth it
03-31-2012, 03:04 PM
#72
For me, the GT2bar just fixed the car - simple as that - it just works better with that bar - and relatively speaking it is a very cheap fix.
Putting all the solid RSS stuff in the rear, way more $, is another great upgrade for the track focused people - the rear end is just way, way better.
03-31-2012, 03:45 PM
#73
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I would agree with this as well.
For me, the GT2bar just fixed the car - simple as that - it just works better with that bar - and relatively speaking it is a very cheap fix.
Putting all the solid RSS stuff in the rear, way more $, is another great upgrade for the track focused people - the rear end is just way, way better.
For me, the GT2bar just fixed the car - simple as that - it just works better with that bar - and relatively speaking it is a very cheap fix.
Putting all the solid RSS stuff in the rear, way more $, is another great upgrade for the track focused people - the rear end is just way, way better.
05-27-2012, 12:07 PM
#74
Rennlist Member
This is an interesting thread... Where's the cheapest place to buy this bar?
05-27-2012, 12:17 PM
#75
Rennlist Member
Tech from goldcrest said they were for trapping cool air ducted in to the rotors. But essentially said they were worthless. My front ones were snapped on the top. He took them off and said to not worry about replacing them.
This is an interesting thread... Where's the cheapest place to buy this bar?
This is an interesting thread... Where's the cheapest place to buy this bar?
Peter