2010 GT3RS Aqua Blue/Gold Track-Day Special For Sale
12-22-2011, 11:50 PM
#121
Rennlist Member
I figured Randy was not taking the entire back end off just for paint and a muffler!
I did not know defcon 6 existed ;-)
We do at Sebring in 3 weeks. Any suggestions?
I did not know defcon 6 existed ;-)
Let me know if you want some nice pro-like photo's done of your car after the TSB updates.
12-22-2011, 11:54 PM
#122
Drifting
Thread Starter
Just a quick mention here of what I realized is the basis for my confuzzlement. The conventional wisdom is to be panicked and terrified about the car having had some body damage and a rebuilt title.
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
12-23-2011, 12:02 AM
#123
Race Director
12-23-2011, 12:09 AM
#124
Nordschleife Master
I do......you take them?
12-23-2011, 12:13 AM
#126
Nordschleife Master
Just a quick mention here of what I realized is the basis for my confuzzlement. The conventional wisdom is to be panicked and terrified about the car having had some body damage and a rebuilt title.
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
tub damage is the only damage that should worry one in a wreck. All teh other parts just bolt on......I know I have had most of them off
12-23-2011, 12:27 AM
#127
Race Director
12-23-2011, 12:28 AM
#128
Race Director
12-23-2011, 09:04 AM
#129
Rennlist Member
Mdrums; Perfect. As a partcipant who takes non commercial pictures that are not for resale you can take all the pictures you want and we know you idolize all white RS
To summarize Savyboy; Only way to buy a car and really know how it has been treated is when the owner posts EVERYTHING these pages. This car received a lot of love and care..
I'd more more worried about a bubble wrapped car sitting several years. Or worse (I have experienced this in person in a CGT!!) a low milage one owner car that gets started only when friends show up and the get a fast full rpm show off ride with a cold car for 4 miles and gets parked again.
Guys like me who likely will never sell their car could have saved 50% and have a better DE car.
Or if I decide to sell it will have 100K+ miles and no one cares.
To summarize Savyboy; Only way to buy a car and really know how it has been treated is when the owner posts EVERYTHING these pages. This car received a lot of love and care..
I'd more more worried about a bubble wrapped car sitting several years. Or worse (I have experienced this in person in a CGT!!) a low milage one owner car that gets started only when friends show up and the get a fast full rpm show off ride with a cold car for 4 miles and gets parked again.
Guys like me who likely will never sell their car could have saved 50% and have a better DE car.
Or if I decide to sell it will have 100K+ miles and no one cares.
12-23-2011, 10:18 AM
#130
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: sydney
Posts: 6,222
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Just a quick mention here of what I realized is the basis for my confuzzlement. The conventional wisdom is to be panicked and terrified about the car having had some body damage and a rebuilt title.
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
But for a person seeking dependable transportation and obtaining enjoyment from driving in the here and now, it is meaningless. In fact couldn't be more meaningless.
It was damaged. Fixed professionally with OE parts. Life goes forward.
My perception of all this is very different from the average owner. Because my background is as a graduate of an automotive technical college. And from having worked early in life as a tech. I understand what is under the skin and inside mechanicals in a way that I guess 90% of forum folks don't.
What matters, in fact, in reality, and affects your potential future repair bills and how the car performs, is how the car is treated day to day- and "the 90%" don't have the knowledge foundation to buck the convential wisdom (wrong!) and seek to evaluate the real problem areas that affect the quality of the car. For example...
1. Not warming the cars components gradually before loading them up. Not much kills a car quicker than hammering on it before it has time to reach operating temperature. That is a fact.
2. If tracking, cooling it down. An 80% cool down lap followed by a slow run around the pits. Really helps save wear/tear on brakes and engine.
3. Poor driving styles. Rough, slam bang shifting. Sloppy shifts that might result in a money shift. Bang shifting or no heel/toe that results in abused transmission syncros.
4. Lugging the engine at low rpms in a high gear. This is terrible for crankshafts and main bearings.
5. Fluid change intervals too long or never (!). Engine oil, transmission gear lube, brake fluid, coolant.
A prospect who thinks the most important thing is finding out every last tiny detail about a body repair is simply deluding themself. Upon deeper digging and reflection, the simple fact is what matters most will not and cannot be quantified. Because the prospect can never learn these facts truthfully unless they have spent a great many miles riding in the car with the seller.
Think about it...
And with that, I am leaving this thread alone for a good long time
my dad calls my car, "engine, open"
his one, "engine blocked"
12-24-2011, 11:18 AM
#131
Rennlist Member
Maybe it seems to good to be true??
Pete, perhaps add all the links to threads you started about the damaga, but also all the (DIY) mod threads and maybe some flatout video's. They clearly show how you broke it, fixed it, added encredible good and expensive go faster stuff and you drove it nicely, no hacking behind the wheel, etc.
One of the values of this car is the thorough history right here on Rennlist!
Pete, perhaps add all the links to threads you started about the damaga, but also all the (DIY) mod threads and maybe some flatout video's. They clearly show how you broke it, fixed it, added encredible good and expensive go faster stuff and you drove it nicely, no hacking behind the wheel, etc.
One of the values of this car is the thorough history right here on Rennlist!
12-24-2011, 11:44 AM
#132
Drifting
Thread Starter
Maybe it seems to good to be true??
Pete, perhaps add all the links to threads you started about the damaga, but also all the (DIY) mod threads and maybe some flatout video's. They clearly show how you broke it, fixed it, added encredible good and expensive go faster stuff and you drove it nicely, no hacking behind the wheel, etc.
One of the values of this car is the thorough history right here on Rennlist!
Pete, perhaps add all the links to threads you started about the damaga, but also all the (DIY) mod threads and maybe some flatout video's. They clearly show how you broke it, fixed it, added encredible good and expensive go faster stuff and you drove it nicely, no hacking behind the wheel, etc.
One of the values of this car is the thorough history right here on Rennlist!
It makes race cars worth more and street cars worth less. A crazy world 
Someone will do the math in regards to ~$30,000 discount from a "not driven in the rain" car and also remember Lockton Affinity only insures for track days up to $100k coverage and the light bulb will pop-on.
Going to post some pics after I get it back to 100% street trim next week.
12-24-2011, 12:13 PM
#133
Savvy... I say this as a person who wouldn't usually buy a damaged car... but those look like scuffs to me.
This is a damn dirty shame no one picked the car up in modded form. Also, the blue is sexier than all hell. I wish I had an extra $20-30K in my budget to but this beast.
Too many deals on the forum with RS's right now
(Yours and Fritz's)
Steve
This is a damn dirty shame no one picked the car up in modded form. Also, the blue is sexier than all hell. I wish I had an extra $20-30K in my budget to but this beast.
Too many deals on the forum with RS's right now
(Yours and Fritz's)Steve
12-28-2011, 01:09 PM
#134
Drifting
Thread Starter
Sold/funds received/done deal. Congrats to the lucky buyer - wow!
I will let him out himself if/when he decides to. Bought in full stock spec. Goodies for sale will be posted up sometime in the next week.
I will let him out himself if/when he decides to. Bought in full stock spec. Goodies for sale will be posted up sometime in the next week.
