How "good" is OEM roll cage
#1
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How "good" is OEM roll cage
Yes, I am finally at the point where I am fast enough requiring a roll cage. It's better to live through a crash than maimed especially this track thing is just a hobby. I like the idea of OEM roll cage since it's not permanently welded but how safe is it compare with a fully welded cage? Race approved?
OK, weld in cage wins!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI7pz5FusKA
OK, weld in cage wins!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI7pz5FusKA
Last edited by mikymu; 07-19-2010 at 05:28 PM.
#2
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Oem bold cages apart from the fact that they dont destroy the cars originality or resale value, pass very strict tests that surpass fia standards easily. And have evolved through the years following the rule changes, for example the current cage has more cross sections and roof bar etc.
IMO stick with oem.
A welded cage is part of homologation for race cars, and might be safer in some extreme cases but I wouldnt bother for a street track car.
In any case whatever you choose have it installed properly and with correct padding.
And just DONT BUY A CARBON CAGE pm for details if you like.
John
IMO stick with oem.
A welded cage is part of homologation for race cars, and might be safer in some extreme cases but I wouldnt bother for a street track car.
In any case whatever you choose have it installed properly and with correct padding.
And just DONT BUY A CARBON CAGE pm for details if you like.
John
Last edited by 911SLOW; 07-15-2010 at 02:55 PM. Reason: typo
#3
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Yes!!
There's nothing wrong with bolted connections, as long as you achieve adequate tension in the bolts so that the connection relies on the friction between the roll bar/body, and not the shear strength of the bolts.
In English, make sure you use high strength bolts and torque them well.
There's nothing wrong with bolted connections, as long as you achieve adequate tension in the bolts so that the connection relies on the friction between the roll bar/body, and not the shear strength of the bolts.
In English, make sure you use high strength bolts and torque them well.
#4
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My dealer told me the OEM cage wall thickness wasn't thick enough to use for racing. Any truth in that?
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Oem bold cages apart from the fact that they dont destroy the cars originality or resale value, pass very strict tests that surpass fia standards easily. And have evolved through the years following the rule changes, for example the current cage has more cross sections and roof bar etc.
IMO stick with oem.
A welded cage is part of homologation for race cars, and might be safer in some extreme cases but I wouldnt bother for a street track car.
In any case whatever you choose have it installed properly and with correct padding.
And just DONT BUY A CARBON CAGE pm for details if you like.
John
IMO stick with oem.
A welded cage is part of homologation for race cars, and might be safer in some extreme cases but I wouldnt bother for a street track car.
In any case whatever you choose have it installed properly and with correct padding.
And just DONT BUY A CARBON CAGE pm for details if you like.
John
Yes!!
There's nothing wrong with bolted connections, as long as you achieve adequate tension in the bolts so that the connection relies on the friction between the roll bar/body, and not the shear strength of the bolts.
In English, make sure you use high strength bolts and torque them well.
There's nothing wrong with bolted connections, as long as you achieve adequate tension in the bolts so that the connection relies on the friction between the roll bar/body, and not the shear strength of the bolts.
In English, make sure you use high strength bolts and torque them well.
After your off at TH on Turn 1 a roll cage sounds really good. We are too fast now days for just a roll bar. I think suncoast sell 996 GT3 roll cage pretty cheap - around $3K ... but 997 GT3 roll cage is likely better made
Don't know the answer ...
#6
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Would be interesting to see what you come up with.. OEM vs. something like, say, Safety Devices full-cage.. waiting for your research result! (and I'm sure a great write-up will follow when you install it!)
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Yes, a full write up on roll cage selection will take place once I have everything installed ... might even strip interior and replace OEM door with a metal door shell to save weight
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#8
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If I have a 7RS, I'd look hard into the OEM cage, especially the one that Porsche uses in its .2 RS in the 24 hrs. of N-Ring races.. it seems to be the latest version (or modified?) w/ extra door bars..
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Mikymu all I can say in thE forum is that carbon cages won’t pass any of the tests for cages, and to give you an example that is based on actual events let’s say you roll over with the carbon cage and on the first impact the roof doesn’t collapse. If the car stops rolling you are ok if it continuous to roll you are not because the cage won’t be there no more. It has been destroyed to little pieces in the first impact doing its job once and now you are rolling without one.
And for the bolted vs. welded here is a picture from 997rs with rohlr driving.
If dmbs AND FIA accept the OEM Porsche cage with bolts i don't see why we shouldn't.
Also two abstracts from adac 24h regulations that are self explanatory.
John
And for the bolted vs. welded here is a picture from 997rs with rohlr driving.
If dmbs AND FIA accept the OEM Porsche cage with bolts i don't see why we shouldn't.
Also two abstracts from adac 24h regulations that are self explanatory.
John
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its the current version not modified simply following the rule in my post above. The only negative is that the added supporti n the A pillar is quite close to the driver's head. In the cup cars the A pillar is pushed forward past the dash.
John
#11
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I wonder if the cage (the photo I posted) would fit a 996...
The cage that Porsche sells for 996 and 997 seems to be different.. w/ the 997 version having a different front section (dual bar at the A-pillar area)
The cage that Porsche sells for 996 and 997 seems to be different.. w/ the 997 version having a different front section (dual bar at the A-pillar area)
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#13
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Here is one P-car without knee bar and look at how far the driver side A-pillar got pushed in with side impact. strong door bars is very important too
Here is a 964 with knee bar above the steering column
#15
mikymu,
Ask FRIZ here on rennlist if the OEM roll bar works...he has some first hand experience...best described as full, full, nose-to-tail full, then a round-off....and then nailed the landing...video is still out there somewhere on youtube...scary ****
What'd you get FRIZ, cut nose, sore ribs, sore shoulders?? without OEM rollbar, belts, seats and helmet it would have been UGLY...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aToLBN3BrBo
Ask FRIZ here on rennlist if the OEM roll bar works...he has some first hand experience...best described as full, full, nose-to-tail full, then a round-off....and then nailed the landing...video is still out there somewhere on youtube...scary ****
What'd you get FRIZ, cut nose, sore ribs, sore shoulders?? without OEM rollbar, belts, seats and helmet it would have been UGLY...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aToLBN3BrBo
Last edited by DRG13; 07-16-2010 at 09:51 AM.