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I just now remembered that the new generation 992 Center Locks are backwards compatible-the thing to look out for is damaged o-rings, which are expensive-they keep water from getting to the locking pins leading to oxidation-
I've also posted on a BMW source for the Optimal paste a while back, at almost half the price- and it isn't called Optimal anymore, btw
There are some CL horror stories on renntlist- the one where a guy took his GT3 to a regular tire place, all of them completely oblivious to the extreme torque values, and had wheels, locks and just about everything else completely destroyed after he drove away...
Nuts
I just now remembered that the new generation 992 Center Locks are backwards compatible-the thing to look out for is damaged o-rings, which are expensive-they keep water from getting to the locking pins leading to oxidation-
I've also posted on a BMW source for the Optimal paste a while back, at almost half the price- and it isn't called Optimal anymore, btw
There are some CL horror stories on renntlist- the one where a guy took his GT3 to a regular tire place, all of them completely oblivious to the extreme torque values, and had wheels, locks and just about everything else completely destroyed after he drove away...
Nuts
Good point on the o-ring.
I need to replace the rubber o-ring near the outer lip / edge of the CL nut. Noticing slight cracks on one of the rings. Are those replaceable with a part number or do you have to buy a whole new nut assembly?
The o-rings on the CL caps are available individually, not so cheap but I can't recall the price-keep in mind it withstands high temps, and it's not worth trying the plumbing supply section at Home Depot-
The o-rings on the CL caps are available individually, not so cheap but I can't recall the price-keep in mind it withstands high temps, and it's not worth trying the plumbing supply section at Home Depot-
JB
This video deserves it's own thread. It's pretty astonishing and sad to see that happen. I could only imagine if a shop did that and my trying to recoup the damages. No shop would pay.
I enjoy torquing things down, the feel and feedback you get from it, and that goes for using my torque wrench on my Center Lock wheels, or rebuilding my '74 H2, nut by nut, bolt by bolt.
There are a few torque multiplier tools people bought, Hytorc or Renntorc(not even sure they're the same, but I've sued through the posts)-spending $5K on a tool to make it easier is just insane in my opinion-like I said, I enjoy the feedback felt as you approach the torque and click, assuring it's done correctly. It could be that in extreme cases, a multiplier tool might be needed-there are threads on those who could not release their CLs no matter what-and the fault usually lies in the incompetence of either a previous owner or shop that never followed procedure, with car on the ground, not using the proper paste, or no paste at all, etc
Having said all this, I just might go remove mine to do a check up, re-paste-the heat does get to it, it's always good to check up on them-
I’ve been using my Hytorc a lot lately… it was tough $$ to swallow, but not having to mess around with clamps and giant breaker bars is completely worth it. If anyone is on the fence, just buy one, you won’t regret it. If anyone thinks it’s a total waste — I can sympathize. I was there too.
Another great tool to consider for CL's removal/install is the RENNTorq. It's very similar to the Hytorc (reaction arm and torque multiplier), only at half the cost. You supply a reasonable torque wrench (0-200ft/lbs) which requires 95 ft/lbs to tighten and 155 ft/lbs max to loosen. Almost a clone and similar operation of the wheel lock tool for the Carrerra GT made by Hazet. Very cool piece of kit to add to the tool box of keep in the frunk.
I enjoy torquing things down, the feel and feedback you get from it, and that goes for using my torque wrench on my Center Lock wheels, or rebuilding my '74 H2, nut by nut, bolt by bolt.
There are a few torque multiplier tools people bought, Hytorc or Renntorc(not even sure they're the same, but I've sued through the posts)-spending $5K on a tool to make it easier is just insane in my opinion-like I said, I enjoy the feedback felt as you approach the torque and click, assuring it's done correctly. It could be that in extreme cases, a multiplier tool might be needed-there are threads on those who could not release their CLs no matter what-and the fault usually lies in the incompetence of either a previous owner or shop that never followed procedure, with car on the ground, not using the proper paste, or no paste at all, etc
Having said all this, I just might go remove mine to do a check up, re-paste-the heat does get to it, it's always good to check up on them-
Yeah that Yamaha is fast too-I've had 4 triples since High School, and the one I have I keep rebuilding it, they are now worth a lot of money. I have upgraded flat slide 34mm carbs, it is indeed crazy and dangerous wide open. Late at night on I-95 I do get it wide open, and those stingers are loud
It freaks people out, most don't understand, bewildered and confused when I ride up on it. I do have a friend with a '72 and when we ride it's double the insanity-years ago we managed to get 6 together and it was madness.
My crank was rebuilt by a guy named Charley who learned from a very well known retired helicopter mechanic in Alabama who did triple cranks and kept him busy until he passed. He had the jig and press, it's not an easy task to do right. Seals and bearings, rods readily available. I put all new bearings on the gearbox and it was not easy to source but I got them from various places. So I figure it'll last a few decades...
This guy in England, Allen Millyard is incredible, he cuts cases with a hand saw, adds a cylinder to make a 4 cylinder Kawasaki 1000 two-stroke, and has made a 5 cylinder version too, a 6 Cylinder Z1 4 stoke, and I think a 12 cylinder taking 2 KZ 1300 sixes and making a V -12, in his garage!
03-03-2023, 01:25 AM
