Coolant lines. Another question from 997RS newbie. Sorry.
#17
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Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 818
From: Central New Jersey
#18
Originally Posted by Waxer
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
#20
it can wait. I just eclipsed 50k in my 2010 RS. No leak, pipes good. This is my 4th mezger 911 with the potential for coolant line issues, never happened. All cars driven regularly and had miles when leaving my care. For peace of mind, I run water + wetter.
The following 2 users liked this post by JG 996T:
Finlander (12-30-2020),
pissedpuppy (12-29-2020)
#21
Last edited by Body In White; 12-29-2020 at 01:42 PM.
#22
Thread Starter
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 818
From: Central New Jersey
Thanks for the info. Makes me feel better. 😁
#24
Originally Posted by Waxer
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
#25
Agree, in light of the car not being tracked, would wait and consider addressing when a new clutch is needed. Porsche claimed that a new process/epoxy was utilized for the 997.2.
#26
For what it's worth, 996 GT2 here, coolant line popped on me last Friday while driving down the highway. I had just hit the gas hard to rip down the highway. Was line behind the alternator so no loss of control, just a white poof and immediate coolant level warning. Car has high mileage at 58k and was tracked by prior owners.
Looking back on things now, I thought I was smelling coolant after startup for the past month when looking at the pulleys in the engine so should have known something was up. It would only last for a few mins and then no smell. I'm sure the line was leaking on the manifold area and when sitting would build up and then larger amount burn after engine heated up and that's what I was smelling.
Line is now "welded", system pressure tested ok and refilled. Going to go back in a "weld" and pin soon. Having one pop at 70+mph is a little unnerving
Looking back on things now, I thought I was smelling coolant after startup for the past month when looking at the pulleys in the engine so should have known something was up. It would only last for a few mins and then no smell. I'm sure the line was leaking on the manifold area and when sitting would build up and then larger amount burn after engine heated up and that's what I was smelling.
Line is now "welded", system pressure tested ok and refilled. Going to go back in a "weld" and pin soon. Having one pop at 70+mph is a little unnerving
Last edited by mnwild; 12-30-2020 at 11:32 AM.
#27
GT3 player par excellence
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From: san francisco
I am not sure why any mechanic will say this is not a prob
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out
The following users liked this post:
joejenie (12-31-2020)
#28
Friend’s coolant lines popped on highway 2nd day of ownership on sub 20k mile example. Car started to fishtail but he was luckily able to limp it onto the shoulder and tow home.
another friend’s sub 20k example popped on him going into turn 2 at laguna. I remember seeing a puff of smoke in my rear view mirror and the car spinning into the gravel pit.
pin/weld the lines.
another friend’s sub 20k example popped on him going into turn 2 at laguna. I remember seeing a puff of smoke in my rear view mirror and the car spinning into the gravel pit.
pin/weld the lines.
#29
Just do it. There's always going to be anecdotes of someone going 60k miles and nothing happening, but the overwhelming data says it will happen. Like others have said it's a good opportunity to do other things while you are in there. And you don't want the thought of the possibility of it happening creeping into your head every time you drive it either. Shame the previous owner didn't do it but at least you know it will be done right.
Pic of the process, click to reveal (NSFW )
Pic of the process, click to reveal (NSFW )
Spoiler
#30
I am not sure why any mechanic will say this is not a prob
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out
Joe was recommended to me by a few people in the area and had he not been an argumentative dick about it, I wouldn't be informing the Rennlist forum but that's what he gets for acting like an a$$. I wouldn't take my car to Joe at German Tech if you live in the Tampa area, guy doesn't seem to know what he's talking about and gives bad advice.
Just my experience here.
Last edited by mnwild; 12-31-2020 at 11:08 AM.