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Coolant lines. Another question from 997RS newbie. Sorry.

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Old 12-28-2020 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bonehead
What car and what flywheel? Stock GT3, no need. GT3 with LWFW or stock 7.2 RS, then yes.
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Old 12-28-2020 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tasman
Easier to stomach when car delivered early January here in Wisconsin. Shop did during the frozen salty period. Did make for a long winter. Lol
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
Old 12-29-2020 | 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Waxer
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
"Safety improvements"
Old 12-29-2020 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by tasman
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thought .1RS with LWFW didn’t require the damper either?
Old 12-29-2020 | 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Waxer
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
it can wait. I just eclipsed 50k in my 2010 RS. No leak, pipes good. This is my 4th mezger 911 with the potential for coolant line issues, never happened. All cars driven regularly and had miles when leaving my care. For peace of mind, I run water + wetter.
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Old 12-29-2020 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by tasman
Originally Posted by bonehead
Originally Posted by ryantt
If one is running a stock clutch is there any benefit to doing the dundon harmonic dampener while the engine is out?
What car and what flywheel? Stock GT3, no need. GT3 with LWFW or stock 7.2 RS, then yes.
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Yup, stock GT3, clutch and flywheel. Thank you both for the clarification.

Last edited by Body In White; 12-29-2020 at 01:42 PM.
Old 12-29-2020 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by JG 996T
it can wait. I just eclipsed 50k in my 2010 RS. No leak, pipes good. This is my 4th mezger 911 with the potential for coolant line issues, never happened. All cars driven regularly and had miles when leaving my care. For peace of mind, I run water + wetter.
Thanks for the info. Makes me feel better. 😁
Old 12-29-2020 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Dervish
thought .1RS with LWFW didn’t require the damper either?
It doesn't. I was assuming we were talking about .2's
Old 12-29-2020 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Waxer
I can tell you trying to explain to the wife that a car i just got is in the shop won’t go over well. And When she finds out they dropped the motor...and trust me she will find out I will be in deep jello. 😬
Lol. I get it. Would have driven mine a while first but winter got in the way. That is main reason I did it right away
Old 12-30-2020 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JG 996T
it can wait. I just eclipsed 50k in my 2010 RS. No leak, pipes good. This is my 4th mezger 911 with the potential for coolant line issues, never happened. All cars driven regularly and had miles when leaving my care. For peace of mind, I run water + wetter.
Agree, in light of the car not being tracked, would wait and consider addressing when a new clutch is needed. Porsche claimed that a new process/epoxy was utilized for the 997.2.
Old 12-30-2020 | 11:26 AM
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For what it's worth, 996 GT2 here, coolant line popped on me last Friday while driving down the highway. I had just hit the gas hard to rip down the highway. Was line behind the alternator so no loss of control, just a white poof and immediate coolant level warning. Car has high mileage at 58k and was tracked by prior owners.

Looking back on things now, I thought I was smelling coolant after startup for the past month when looking at the pulleys in the engine so should have known something was up. It would only last for a few mins and then no smell. I'm sure the line was leaking on the manifold area and when sitting would build up and then larger amount burn after engine heated up and that's what I was smelling.

Line is now "welded", system pressure tested ok and refilled. Going to go back in a "weld" and pin soon. Having one pop at 70+mph is a little unnerving

Last edited by mnwild; 12-30-2020 at 11:32 AM.
Old 12-31-2020 | 02:04 AM
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I am not sure why any mechanic will say this is not a prob
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out

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Old 12-31-2020 | 03:44 AM
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Friend’s coolant lines popped on highway 2nd day of ownership on sub 20k mile example. Car started to fishtail but he was luckily able to limp it onto the shoulder and tow home.

another friend’s sub 20k example popped on him going into turn 2 at laguna. I remember seeing a puff of smoke in my rear view mirror and the car spinning into the gravel pit.

pin/weld the lines.
Old 12-31-2020 | 09:47 AM
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Just do it. There's always going to be anecdotes of someone going 60k miles and nothing happening, but the overwhelming data says it will happen. Like others have said it's a good opportunity to do other things while you are in there. And you don't want the thought of the possibility of it happening creeping into your head every time you drive it either. Shame the previous owner didn't do it but at least you know it will be done right.

Pic of the process, click to reveal (NSFW )
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Old 12-31-2020 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by mooty
I am not sure why any mechanic will say this is not a prob
track, street or NEVER driven, they will fail. I have 20+ GT3/rs, some are delivery miles, some are track whole some are DD. they ALL FAIL or about to fail
it's cheap vs. car price, just do it
if you have to worry about $10-15k, this is not a car for you (not talking about waxer, but in geneneral)
for street car, you likely wont crash if you failed. but why takes chances. when it dumps, the temp goes to red in a nanosecond. if you don't shut it off quick, warp the deck.
you don't need engine out to do it, but if you want to do it RIGHT, get the engine out
make a list of stuff:
water pump
clutch
shark elbow
whatever else that can be done when engine is out
On the topic of why any mechanic would say it's not a problem, I know I am being spiteful but here is my recent experience with one, you can't always trust even a "reputable" mechanic shop - I called a shop down here in the Tampa area of Florida called German Tech, spoke with Joe. Told him one of my lines popped on me and it's been repaired and system pressure checked all good but I'd like to get a quote on getting the rest done for preventative maintenance. He proceeded to question and argue with me as to why I would want to pin the lines if I had no leaks. I told him there was info all over the net and the Porsche forums as to why and even an article by Sharkwerks and he proceeded to ask me if I believed everything I read on the internet and said coolant lines popping apply to a very small percentage of cars, just like the IMS issue on non-TT/GT cars.

Joe was recommended to me by a few people in the area and had he not been an argumentative dick about it, I wouldn't be informing the Rennlist forum but that's what he gets for acting like an a$$. I wouldn't take my car to Joe at German Tech if you live in the Tampa area, guy doesn't seem to know what he's talking about and gives bad advice.

Just my experience here.

Last edited by mnwild; 12-31-2020 at 11:08 AM.


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