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Hmm. Now I'm puzzled. After changing to Motul from Pentosin High 5w40 my oil pressure has gone down and oil temp went up. Previously the oil temp would sit around 200 most of the time and go up to 225 during auto cross or super hot days. Now it's 215-225 most of the time.
The variables don't add up.
That adds up perfectly to me... The hotter the oil the less resistance to flow it has, hence less pressure.
So, it's not the fact that you have lower pressure, it's the fact that oil is running hotter now, creating this. Think of pouring syrup on your pancakes... it comes out at ambient temp and is high viscosity... when it hits the hot pancakes it thins out, and loses viscosity. Same thing happens inside the engine.
Motul is one of the hottest running oil I've seen in these engines, second only to Redline. That's the main reason I won't run it.
Viscosity index is often overlooked with oil, and only the API ratings are considered. I want an oil that isn't just a 40 grade at 212F, I want it to maintain that viscosity at 250F.
I will confess to being lazy and boring, sticking with Mobil One 0-40 for my 65K miles of stewardship. Since the 9A1 motors include proportional control on the oil pump (or pumps depending upon how you interpret the controls) I don't see pressure changes.
But, Grant, you seem to be ready. For your 2006 997.1 it may be time to listen to Jake and Petza. My garage is in the same place. I know it's been discussed, but I haven't reserved gray matter space for the details ... Will we need to use a flush in changing to the new oil?
We'll have to schedule some long drives to get miles on the new oil so you can report back on your findings.
Interesting that the change to Motul has resulted in higher running temperatures. I didn't see this in my wife's car when changing from M1 to Motul and am wondering if there are also other variables at play here. Have you changed anything else related to cooling, like renewed the coolant, changed the front bumper, or is it just hotter outside now than when you were running the other oil.
Jake brings up a good point about the viscosity index throughout a range, not just at the temps where the cars usually run or where Blackstone tests it, and he has a lot more experience with all these oils than any of us do so we should defer to his knowledge on this topic.
If you're considering a change to JGR DT40, you need to do a 100-200 mile flush with JGR BR30 as well as a filter change to prevent the additive packages from working against each other. I actually have quite a few quarts of BR30 I will sell at a discount if you (and/or Wayne) are considering a move to DT40.
@Jake - ur awesome and thanks for the explanation!! Makes sense on the temp vs viscosity. I wasn't aware Motul ran hotter.
@Petza - there are four variables I can see related to the increased temp:
1. Change from Pento 5w40 to Motul
2. Had the bumper resprayed a few weeks ago and they removed it and resinstalled. I don't see any obvious issues. Only a couple cigarettes and bugs in the radiator.
3. Weather is a bit warmer in SF but not by that much. Maybe the road temps are warmer. Previously it only went up to 225 during autocross or rippers through the countryside. It mostly hovered around 200 or normal highway driving, except it high traffic. It seems like its running 215-225 on normal highway driving now. I haven't seen it go above that.
4. Oil pan removal
My uneducated theory is both #1 and #3 are working together to increase the oil temp.
My thinking is to run the Motul for 2-3k miles to get a Blackstone data point on it. Based on results I can then switch to DT40. Thanks for the offer on the BR30.
@Wayne - thanks for all the help! This has been a great education.
Just a quick note--the magnetic drain plugs are fairly useless. So much if the internals of these engines are non-ferrous so the magnetic plug would not catch much. The filter does a great job. I made my own magnetic drain plug (I have two drain plugs, one normal and one I made with a regular plug, a high-strength magnet, and a bit of JB Weld). I rotate my magnetic one in with every other oil change.
Just a quick note--the magnetic drain plugs are fairly useless. So much if the internals of these engines are non-ferrous so the magnetic plug would not catch much. The filter does a great job. I made my own magnetic drain plug (I have two drain plugs, one normal and one I made with a regular plug, a high-strength magnet, and a bit of JB Weld). I rotate my magnetic one in with every other oil change.
The purpose of the magnetic drain plug Is to catch the ferrous metal from the IMS bearing and the I've you some early warning. The same drain plug also fits the drain hole of the gearbox where there isn't a filter and can keep metallic wear from the gears from staying suspended and circulating in the transmission oil. I installed one there too when I did my PLX change.
Just a quick note--the magnetic drain plugs are fairly useless. So much if the internals of these engines are non-ferrous so the magnetic plug would not catch much. The filter does a great job. I made my own magnetic drain plug (I have two drain plugs, one normal and one I made with a regular plug, a high-strength magnet, and a bit of JB Weld). I rotate my magnetic one in with every other oil change.
The internals with the highest amount of wear ARE ferrous. Camshafts, lifters, timing chains, and piston rings can all be detected by a proper magnetic drain plug.
When developing products, I use the magnetic drain plug as my biggest consideration from a wear perspective. It's quick to review, and is very effective.
The oil defoaming tubes sprayed onto the sides of the motor rather than into cylinders. This caused some confusion. Makes me wonder M96 or M97. It is a 2006 non S.
A lot of people think the M97 was the updated engine in '06. However all 05-08 997.1 base Carreras use the M96/05 designation. All 05-08 997.1 S use the M97/01 designation. Both M96 and M97 were updated in the '06 MY (May '05 build date I believe) with the improved IMS.
The 996s use the M96/01-04 engines and I believe they had the previous swirl pot design in the sump. M96/05 and M97/01 have the straight tube.
The internals with the highest amount of wear ARE ferrous. Camshafts, lifters, timing chains, and piston rings can all be detected by a proper magnetic drain plug.
When developing products, I use the magnetic drain plug as my biggest consideration from a wear perspective. It's quick to review, and is very effective.
Bam! All you need to know. And why I have one from L&N. I expect a rush on sales.
Bam! All you need to know. And why I have one from L&N. I expect a rush on sales.
I love my magnetic drain plug..... it makes my DIY oil changes so darn exciting. The night before I do the drain, I think about how I am going to get the plug out when a big chunk of metal is attached to it and it won't fit through the hole. Will the shards be so sharp that I cut myself? Unfortunately I have been disappointed .... no chunks..... maybe I need a stronger magnet.
I wanted to give a quick update on this thread. I changed my oil today, almost 4k miles since Wayne and I removed and cleaned the oil pan. (As a side note, I cant believe I've put 9k miles on the car since Feb.)
The good news is there was no further metallic debris in the filter, not a single spec. It looks like Jake's theory about the oil galley drillings was correct.
I did find 4 small bits of debris that i'm trying to research. One was a bit of blue plastic. No idea what that is from. The other was a black/brown flake and I couldn't quiet figure out the material. It seems like it was very hard, brittle plastic. Based on my quick research it could be a bit of the camchain guide wear pad.
Appreciate any insight from the interweb gods on likely origin and degree of normality. Im sending the oil out to Blackstone tomorrow.
07-22-2017, 04:56 PM
