Purchase advice... 997.1 or 997.2
#1
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I'm looking to acquire my first porsche. But I need to decide whether I should go for a 2006 to 2008 997.1 with 40k to 60k miles, or a 2009 to 2010 997.2 with more like 100k miles?
Let's assume it's either a 2s or 4s. Good maintenance history and clean. Let's also assume I'll do most the routine maintenance and repairs that don't require dropping the motor or transmission.
I've been wrenching on cars a long time, and it won't be my daily driver. Maybe 5k miles per year on the high end. I'm not afraid to turn a wrench, but I don't want to rebuild a transmission in the next few years either.
The 997.2 appeals to me due to the new motor design and direct injection, but I don't want to invest over 50k. So a high mileage car is my only choice.
The 997.1 would be a manual for sure... But maybe I'd consider the pdk on the 997.2.
Thoughts?
Let's assume it's either a 2s or 4s. Good maintenance history and clean. Let's also assume I'll do most the routine maintenance and repairs that don't require dropping the motor or transmission.
I've been wrenching on cars a long time, and it won't be my daily driver. Maybe 5k miles per year on the high end. I'm not afraid to turn a wrench, but I don't want to rebuild a transmission in the next few years either.
The 997.2 appeals to me due to the new motor design and direct injection, but I don't want to invest over 50k. So a high mileage car is my only choice.
The 997.1 would be a manual for sure... But maybe I'd consider the pdk on the 997.2.
Thoughts?
#2
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that is really only a decision you can make
I have a 2007 C2S now with close to 40k miles. I enjoy my car
Personally I would go for a lower mile car which puts you in a 997.1 and MT
but that is just my personal opinion
I have a 2007 C2S now with close to 40k miles. I enjoy my car
Personally I would go for a lower mile car which puts you in a 997.1 and MT
but that is just my personal opinion
#3
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If you only put 5k miles/year then I would go with a 997.1. Basically, it takes 10 years to get to the same miles of the 997.2.
pdk is very nice but you won't be able to DIY any of it. Direct injection taxes the fuel delivery system, especially the pump which is not fun to DIY either.
A biggest risk for a 997.1 is bore score. It affects a few ppl but no one knows for sure what causes it. A combination of many things seems like the reason.
If you look hard enough, you may even get a 997.1 with 20k miles. Add in a 6 years 100K miles platinum warranty for less than $4k and you are all set.
pdk is very nice but you won't be able to DIY any of it. Direct injection taxes the fuel delivery system, especially the pump which is not fun to DIY either.
A biggest risk for a 997.1 is bore score. It affects a few ppl but no one knows for sure what causes it. A combination of many things seems like the reason.
If you look hard enough, you may even get a 997.1 with 20k miles. Add in a 6 years 100K miles platinum warranty for less than $4k and you are all set.
#4
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What about depreciation? Do you guys think the 997.1 will retain its value better... Due to the lower mileage? I might feel pressure to limit the mileage (touring) on the 997.1, whereas the the 997.2 is so high it really doesn't matter.... Just drive and enjoy. I suppose if I resale the car in a few years I'll take a bigger hit on the 997.2.
#5
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Para82 is selling his 2005 launch edition car and for way too little money. If I was in the market for a MT 997 of any generation, that car would no longer be for sale. He has just done a new clutch, already replaced the IMS bearing prior to a failure, and the launch cars are black on black (timeless color combo), have the PCCB brakes and adaptive seats - best options for both categories if street driving the car. If you'll be tracking it, you'll want to swap the brakes over to steel and I'll buy the rotors from you.
Don't overlook 2005 997s. People are scared of them because of the early ones having the smaller, failure-prone IMS bearing, but getting one of these cars gives you the ability to replace it with The IMS Solution, which is a better setup than the late 2005-2008 larger bearing cars have. Take the money you save and invest it into driver training or suspension upgrades, or your kids' college funds, or whatever.
Ideally, you'll want to find a car that has been in a warm climate all it's life, or put away for the winter if it's from a colder climate. Bore scoring is more prevalent in cold climate cars and in those that haven't changed to the lower temperature thermostat, which opens sooner, is fully open sooner, and allows the engine to warm up more gradually than the standard thermostat does. Buy one where the oil has been changed at least every 5,000 miles (with records).
Although .2 cars don't have the IMS bearing issue, they are not immune to bore scoring, may have long term timing chain issues, may have carbon build-up issues like almost all DFI cars do, and some other problems. My advice is that you're better off with a lower mileage .1 car than a higher mileage .2 car.
Good luck with your search - getting your 1st 997 is really amazing.
Don't overlook 2005 997s. People are scared of them because of the early ones having the smaller, failure-prone IMS bearing, but getting one of these cars gives you the ability to replace it with The IMS Solution, which is a better setup than the late 2005-2008 larger bearing cars have. Take the money you save and invest it into driver training or suspension upgrades, or your kids' college funds, or whatever.
Ideally, you'll want to find a car that has been in a warm climate all it's life, or put away for the winter if it's from a colder climate. Bore scoring is more prevalent in cold climate cars and in those that haven't changed to the lower temperature thermostat, which opens sooner, is fully open sooner, and allows the engine to warm up more gradually than the standard thermostat does. Buy one where the oil has been changed at least every 5,000 miles (with records).
Although .2 cars don't have the IMS bearing issue, they are not immune to bore scoring, may have long term timing chain issues, may have carbon build-up issues like almost all DFI cars do, and some other problems. My advice is that you're better off with a lower mileage .1 car than a higher mileage .2 car.
Good luck with your search - getting your 1st 997 is really amazing.
#6
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All valid points. I hadn't considered the direct injection as a potential problem area and reliability concern. Porsche could have done it on the earlier cars right? Why didn't they?
I looked at that launch car for sale. The mileage is high, making it similar and price AND mileage to a 997.2 I'm interested in... Which begs the question... Which is the better choice, all things being 'equal'. The black on black is really sick looking. But it's a bit too stealthy for my business and might not make the right impression. Silver, gray, dark blue, or white are more conservative and likely a better fit.
I looked at that launch car for sale. The mileage is high, making it similar and price AND mileage to a 997.2 I'm interested in... Which begs the question... Which is the better choice, all things being 'equal'. The black on black is really sick looking. But it's a bit too stealthy for my business and might not make the right impression. Silver, gray, dark blue, or white are more conservative and likely a better fit.
#7
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You are not gonna turn wrenches with the PDK. They are sealed and pretty much closed up to repairs.
100,000 miles and good maintenance? That should mean that large amounts of the moving parts have already been replaced. Is that really the case or was it just a bunch of oil changes?
The biggest risk that is hard to manage in the 997.1 is cylinder scoring, IMHO. If a PPI determines that it didn't begin at 50,000 miles yet I would feel more secure in such a 997.1 instead of a 100,000 miles 997.2.
Keep in mind some electronics suck more in the older cars. Make sure you get the universal audio interface. Couple pitfalls like that.
100,000 miles and good maintenance? That should mean that large amounts of the moving parts have already been replaced. Is that really the case or was it just a bunch of oil changes?
The biggest risk that is hard to manage in the 997.1 is cylinder scoring, IMHO. If a PPI determines that it didn't begin at 50,000 miles yet I would feel more secure in such a 997.1 instead of a 100,000 miles 997.2.
Keep in mind some electronics suck more in the older cars. Make sure you get the universal audio interface. Couple pitfalls like that.
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#8
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Is a PPI that includes a bore scope absolutely mandatory on either car? That can't be cheap... $1000? Insurance I guess.
You are not gonna turn wrenches with the PDK. They are sealed and pretty much closed up to repairs.
100,000 miles and good maintenance? That should mean that large amounts of the moving parts have already been replaced. Is that really the case or was it just a bunch of oil changes?
The biggest risk that is hard to manage in the 997.1 is cylinder scoring, IMHO. If a PPI determines that it didn't begin at 50,000 miles yet I would feel more secure in such a 997.1 instead of a 100,000 miles 997.2.
Keep in mind some electronics suck more in the older cars. Make sure you get the universal audio interface. Couple pitfalls like that.
100,000 miles and good maintenance? That should mean that large amounts of the moving parts have already been replaced. Is that really the case or was it just a bunch of oil changes?
The biggest risk that is hard to manage in the 997.1 is cylinder scoring, IMHO. If a PPI determines that it didn't begin at 50,000 miles yet I would feel more secure in such a 997.1 instead of a 100,000 miles 997.2.
Keep in mind some electronics suck more in the older cars. Make sure you get the universal audio interface. Couple pitfalls like that.
#9
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Boroscope doesn't cost that much. Usually it's done by removing the spark plugs and looking into the cylinders from the top. Unfortunately, bore scoring usually begins at the bottom so they better way to scope for it is by dropping the oil pan and looking up from below - that's probably a little more expensive. When it happens it seems to be always be in the back cylinders on the two banks. You could probably save some money by just having them look at #3 and #6 with #6 being the most prevalent when it occurs. A normal PPI is about $300 - adding the scoping of all the cylinders probably takes it to $500. If the rest of the car checks out though, you can have them do plugs and coilpacks while they're doing the scoping since they have to remove those anyway and then you will have also addressed a normal maintenance item without any additional labor costs - just a thought.
#10
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PPI for mine including dropping everything, compression test was $500. But they found a first gen iPhone so that was fun.
I would try for a 997.2 due to the upgraded LEDs, DFI, PDK if you are wanting an automatic and the extra comforts that are available including cooled seats and heated steering wheel if they mean anything to you. If a stretch budget wise I wouldn't lose sleep over a 997.1, just do a good PPI.
I would try for a 997.2 due to the upgraded LEDs, DFI, PDK if you are wanting an automatic and the extra comforts that are available including cooled seats and heated steering wheel if they mean anything to you. If a stretch budget wise I wouldn't lose sleep over a 997.1, just do a good PPI.
#11
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I'm not totally opposed to the PDK... But leaning towards the manual for driving pleasure. What do mean by "dropping everything" for the PPI? The new DFI motor is very appealing. It's silly quick. But probably doesn't sound quite as good.
PPI for mine including dropping everything, compression test was $500. But they found a first gen iPhone so that was fun.
I would try for a 997.2 due to the upgraded LEDs, DFI, PDK if you are wanting an automatic and the extra comforts that are available including cooled seats and heated steering wheel if they mean anything to you. If a stretch budget wise I wouldn't lose sleep over a 997.1, just do a good PPI.
I would try for a 997.2 due to the upgraded LEDs, DFI, PDK if you are wanting an automatic and the extra comforts that are available including cooled seats and heated steering wheel if they mean anything to you. If a stretch budget wise I wouldn't lose sleep over a 997.1, just do a good PPI.
#12
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But I think you need quite a bit of experience to accurately classify it. Most likely a 10 year old 50,000 miles car has some harmless smoking going on, too.
Keep in mind that if it is a 2005 you don't know which IMSB you got in there.
#13
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JUST my thoughts, I have two 09's wouldn't consider going older. both of my have about 65K miles and both got the 60K service. I have zero issues with either one. (except my wife just had a fender bender in our company paring lot). anyway I paid 40K & 42K for my cars. well withing your budget. My cars are not S, however you can find 09 S cars between 43K-48K under 65K miles
good luck
good luck
#14
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My '09 S with PDK is a bit over 49k miles. I bought it with a little over 44k last summer, so it's my toy and not DD. Drive my old f150 4x4 with 143k miles for that. When shopping I was looking for 997.2 only. I considered some non S 991 but just flat think the 997.2 is a sweet spot between design, size and mechanical issues. It has always been a Texas car, very well maintained and prior owner seems to have among many upgrades changed the thermostat. It is very cold natured and slow to warm up. So, I'm very easy on her until up to temp. I've taken a couple of trips besides around town and I watch the oil level religiously due to that being an early sign of scoring.
This is Porsche #7 but my first 911. Get the 997.2. The S is quicker than I need. I think for the $ you would be very pleased with a low mileage non S 997.2.
This is Porsche #7 but my first 911. Get the 997.2. The S is quicker than I need. I think for the $ you would be very pleased with a low mileage non S 997.2.
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They removed the oil pan and bore scoped it. I asked them to tear it apart as I didn't want to feel like I could have avoided issues if I would have spent a couple dollars more. Paid for my piece of mind.