Hi-Arc

997.2. The DFI motors are awesome!

Kipp

Indeed. It crossed my mind that I should consider a non S 997.2 over the S 997.1 if it meant staying within my budget... Due to the new motor design. But... I thought I read somewhere that the 997.2 non S motor is more similar to the 997.1 motor than the 997.2 S motor. Is this misleading?

Kipp

I haven't seen and 997.2 S cars with under 65k miles for less than $50k!

Clinton Ave

Get the 997.1s with lower milage. These things are holding value, even at 60k miles, which is what you'll have in a few years.

Kipp

Words of wisdom no doubt. I especially like the idea that depreciation will be minimal. Any thoughts on whether the model year really matters? 2005, 2006, 2007 or 2008?

Own Goal

The 997.2 non S is still the 9A1 motor but less displacement and HP. Still no intermediate shaft. I also seem to remember on that very long and involved excellent thread between Hartec in the U.K. And Jake @ L&N the 3.6 might be less prone to bore scoring due to more meat on the walls? Can't recall. The thread is worth a read regardless.
I'm thinking you will be happy with the 3.6 performance wise. My S also has PSE with the Sharkwerks X pipe and the Fab Speed comp dual cone intake. It's just way quicker than anything you need ( like we use that as a rational gauge of decision making ) and only gets me in trouble. I'd say drive some examples.

jdgamble

I went 997.2 non S and I am very happy with the decision. There have been a couple other threads on this recently, and it seems the two big factors for 997.2 buyers are lack of IMS and PDK. PDK doesn't seem like a big factor to you, but ito performance, the 997.2 non S is pretty much on par with the 997.1 S. Your mileage numbers seem pretty extreme. I've barely seen a 997.2 with anywhere near 100k miles, and the pricing wasn't too much more when I was comparing. You should be able to pick up a nice low-mileage base 997.2 at or a little over 40k, which considering the car is a smoking deal.

mk85911

+1 on the non S 997.2, in particular with manual transmission. Even with the smaller engine, the shift points come up so quickly that it's difficult to nail the perfect rpm.

I debated base vs S quite a bit before I purchased my base, and I ordered my car, so there weren't any other build factors that came into play. I have never regretted my choice. Mike

Pors968

IMHO get a 997.2 . It's more reliable engine than 997.1. Also 997.1 is $25k gamble due to IMS and bore scoring issues. just my 02 cents.

Kipp

I hear you. You guys aren't helping much! Ha. Pretty even split between the two choices.

Let me expand upon the discussion by suggesting I keep the car for 10 or more years. Would this make the 997.1 or 997.2 more appealing? Again... I prefer DIY maintenance and repairs that don't require engine drop.

Own Goal

If it's a long term investment deal get a G50 3.2 ( 1986-89 ). If I should sell off my 86 '951 that for sure will be my other Porsche to go with my 997.2 S.

blackonblack

To do a timing chain on the 997.2 direct injection, you have to remove the motor. Now this isn't likely to be needed until 150-200k miles, but just a thought, the 997.1 motors are much easier to work on and therefore cheaper labor costs

mickfluff

if you want to retain any value long term the Base cars are NOT the car to have period.....

plus if your someone that likes to mod things, add parts, make things better etc start with the S IMO. If your OK with leaving things alone (I could NEVER own a Porsche not modify if) the base may work for you. The base is a wonderful car on many levels for the right owner....

you can buy a 997.1s for less then a base 997.2 and have the car be a higher optioned car. With the savings go buy a fidelity warranty and do the IMS. Now you have a car covered for 5 years under warranty and has the IMS done. This may cost you about 5K. Add that 5K ticket to the price of a 997.1s and your at about the price maybe a bit more then a 997.2 base and now you have wiped the IMS issue out and have a car under warranty for 5 years!

ask me how I know? What I did.... or similar at least. My car just had the IMS done by Jake Raby prior to my purchasing the car, bought the car and picked up a 6 year fidelity warranty for like 3k for piece of mind.

Chris M.

Depends on your budget but the non-S .2 cars are at least $10K more than .1 S cars. If you're going to keep it a long time I'd say .2 but if you're in and out in a couple years the .1 car will likely depreciate less since it's already had the bulk of its depreciation.