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View Poll Results: Poll: Have you had bore scoring on your 997.1 or 997.2 engine?
Yes, 997.1 (05-08 MY)
143
14.50%
Yes, 997.2 (09-12 MY)
18
1.83%
No, 997.1 (05-08 MY)
524
53.14%
No, 997.2 (09-12 MY)
301
30.53%
Voters: 986. You may not vote on this poll

Poll: Scored cylinder failure for your 997, Y or N? tell us (yr, 997.1 or 997.2)

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Old 06-12-2024, 02:03 PM
  #691  
bondc
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Originally Posted by Ed99
Just be very careful when buying a 997 in Canada because I found 3 997's with low miles on it and in great condition and turns out all 3 had bore scoring on it. The weather up north is cold and wouldn't be surprised when these cars are either not driven enough or not warmed up properly. Make sure to conduct a bore scoring before purchasing any 997.1 and 997.2's. I hear 997.2 are starting to creep up too which is sad because I was hoping to get a 997.2 but even that generation is not bullet proof of bore scoring.

My $300 bore scoring saved me 3x's!!! Otherwise would have have to deal with it eventually and spending $30K for engine rebuild.
Thanks for the heads, I am getting another Porsche specialist to look at it to make sure its free of damage on that cylinder. All other cylinder confirm no damage. But the car has spent 3 years in Calgary from 2018 and originally purchased in Ontario before making its way in BC so I have to be sure on the overall engine health.
Old 06-12-2024, 02:29 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by yelcab
This is the 3rd time I posted this picture. It has both a crack in the middle and a squiggly line to the right of the crack. The crack is fatal, the squiggly line is not.


A little different topic - assuming there was no bore scoring / cracking here but the piston head looked like that, is that still alright or a red flag?

that = carbon buildup? “Burnt” look? I can’t quite articulate but hope you all get my drift.
Old 06-12-2024, 03:49 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by fiddlesticks
A little different topic - assuming there was no bore scoring / cracking here but the piston head looked like that, is that still alright or a red flag?

that = carbon buildup? “Burnt” look? I can’t quite articulate but hope you all get my drift.
From my experience doing 4 Bore Scope Inspections, thats normal burnt oil deposit carbon ontop of the cylinder.


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Old 06-12-2024, 03:50 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by groovzilla
From my experience doing 4 Bore Scope Inspections, thats normal burnt oil deposit carbon ontop of the cylinder.
Appreciate it! Good to know!
Old 06-13-2024, 09:40 AM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by yelcab
This is the 3rd time I posted this picture. It has both a crack in the middle and a squiggly line to the right of the crack. The crack is fatal, the squiggly line is not.



Thanks. This is the same picture from you that I linked directly to in post #676 and this is an excellent illustration of the difference. You are one of the best on RL from what I have seen, probably because you have hands on experience and that has given you a deeper understanding. Thank you for your contributions.

Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
If there is concern that is a crack, the best thing to do is pressurize the cooling system to 30 psi and then scope it. If it is indeed cracked, you'll see coolant intrusion.
That is a great idea. Thank you for sharing it.
Old 06-14-2024, 12:52 PM
  #696  
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Originally Posted by groovzilla
Important/spot-on comment because I had the same experience. There were 2 997S cars from Vancouver BC & Whistler BC that I was considering buying and BOTH had bad scoring.
Originally Posted by Ed99
Just be very careful when buying a 997 in Canada because I found 3 997's with low miles on it and in great condition and turns out all 3 had bore scoring on it. The weather up north is cold and wouldn't be surprised when these cars are either not driven enough or not warmed up properly. Make sure to conduct a bore scoring before purchasing any 997.1 and 997.2's. I hear 997.2 are starting to creep up too which is sad because I was hoping to get a 997.2 but even that generation is not bullet proof of bore scoring.

My $300 bore scoring saved me 3x's!!! Otherwise would have have to deal with it eventually and spending $30K for engine rebuild.

That's crazy glad you guys @groovzilla @Ed99 found one after all, I would be quite devastated. Do you usually see scoring on Cylinder #2 as info I read said that's most common?
Agree it's definitely takes more time to find the right car here (price, local car, maintenance history) that's why they ask for a premium here (at least for the coupe).

Originally Posted by yelcab
This is the 3rd time I posted this picture. It has both a crack in the middle and a squiggly line to the right of the crack. The crack is fatal, the squiggly line is not.
Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
As has been mentioned here, it's just squiggly lines in the castings. We see it all the time. If there is concern that is a crack, the best thing to do is pressurize the cooling system to 30 psi and then scope it. If it is indeed cracked, you'll see coolant intrusion. Used oil analysis, at least Speediagnostix, will be able to positively confirm the presence of coolant in the oil if there is a problem.
Thanks for the all the comments, I am having another mechanic (Juan's auto service) to look at the engine next week .

Thanks,
Will

Last edited by bondc; 06-14-2024 at 12:53 PM.
Old 06-14-2024, 01:28 PM
  #697  
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One last suggestion for any prospective buyer of these cars in the future, and if you're having the cylinders scoped from the sump the oil is going to be drained anyway:

Because we have seen so many false positives and false negatives both, I would suggest to take a sample of the oil and sending it in for analysis as part of your PPI. I prefer Speediagnostix due to the technologies utilized but there are many out there that should work. As mentioned previously, some services like Speediagnostix can also detect coolant intrusion which would be the case if the cylinder was in fact cracked. This is very cheap insurance (~$60) and covers all of your bases. If there is scoring you would see elevated levels of Al and Si.

One important thing to note is that DT40, a high quality and popular oil among the port injected Porsche crowd, has recently changed and no longer uses silicon in the formulation.
Old 06-15-2024, 11:00 PM
  #698  
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Originally Posted by silver_tt
Thanks. This is the same picture from you that I linked directly to in post #676 and this is an excellent illustration of the difference. You are one of the best on RL from what I have seen, probably because you have hands on experience and that has given you a deeper understanding. Thank you for your contributions.

That is a great idea. Thank you for sharing it.
Just to confirm, the photo reference in this post indeed is a cracked cylinder as you can see where the crack then crosses over the deck surface. it just has not completely failed yet to a d-chunk.
Old 06-15-2024, 11:01 PM
  #699  
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Originally Posted by bondc
That's crazy glad you guys @groovzilla @Ed99 found one after all, I would be quite devastated. Do you usually see scoring on Cylinder #2 as info I read said that's most common?
Agree it's definitely takes more time to find the right car here (price, local car, maintenance history) that's why they ask for a premium here (at least for the coupe).





Thanks for the all the comments, I am having another mechanic (Juan's auto service) to look at the engine next week .

Thanks,
Will
Juan is very knowledgeable. I'd trust his recommendation.
Old 06-16-2024, 01:12 AM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro
Just to confirm, the photo reference in this post indeed is a cracked cylinder as you can see where the crack then crosses over the deck surface. it just has not completely failed yet to a d-chunk.
Yes, but this photo is showing both a crack and a squiggly, which is why it's a good illustration of the difference. The crack is on the left and the squiggly is on the right -- here is yelcab's labeled photo that I originally linked to above in post #676:

Old 07-08-2024, 07:42 PM
  #701  
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Originally Posted by silver_tt
Yes, but this photo is showing both a crack and a squiggly, which is why it's a good illustration of the difference. The crack is on the left and the squiggly is on the right -- here is yelcab's labeled photo that I originally linked to above in post #676:
May I use this photo? It's the best one I've seen.
Old 07-08-2024, 09:20 PM
  #702  
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I would defer to yelcab but I am sure he would be ok with it :-)

Thanks Charles and yelcab for all you have contributed. You are both oracles of good info and experience on this topic.
Old Yesterday, 08:07 PM
  #703  
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Thinking about the cost of this (as a 997.1 owner rebuilds are something we gotta think about!) - I've read from various US customers higher figures than you would think, but just watched the Jay Em video from over at Hartech and they said in the video cost of a rebuild was around 10k pounds. That's like 13k USD. Anyone know the cost to ship a car over to the UK to have them do the work? If an engine rebuild here costs let's say $35k, then that's 22 grand of wiggle room for shipping...
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Old Yesterday, 10:26 PM
  #704  
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The UK apparently has some law that requires Hartech to essentially quote the bare minimum and then document everything else that needs replacing and then get approval before doing so. So their typical build runs around 17k GBP plus VAT or shipping and import taxes. We decided to take a little different approach from the beginning and worked with them to come up with a base package for Hartech Engines in the US that includes proactively replacing 95% of the items that are likely to have issues over the next 100k miles. There are still a few items like valve springs that we test and advise on as ~80% of the time the springs are within 1 to 2lbs of new OEM (intakes loose rate with wear but the exhaust springs actually increase in rate with wear). We are more aggressive with items that require drop and disassembly and less aggressive with items that can be replaced relatively easily at a later date. And so that is where our base build cost of $22.8k came from which we consider pretty much all inclusive for customers that send us their engine and 25.2k for customers that want to send their car.

That price also includes setting every engine up on our engine dyno. We start by flushing it for 5 mins with BR40 break in oil to ensure it is fully pre-lubricated and that the majority of the sealant are filtered out prior to the first start. We then run it through our break in procedures under load to get the rings seated properly, an extensive series of tests to ensure that all major components and systems are functioning as expected, and then we remap and test your ecu file to ensure it is adapting properly and putting down the power that we expected. So by the time you get your engine back, it is fully broken in, sorted, and ready for street or track duty. And it also gives us a full set of baseline data on every engine that we can refer back to if any unexpected issues arise. And all machining and rebuilding work is performed in house at our 12,000 sqft facility in OKC using Hartech processes, best practices, CNC programming, and their patented closed decked, nikasil plated replacement cylinders.

Some people's dream is to retire and play golf the rest of their lives, mine was to build an engine development and testing lab dedicated to water-cooled Porsche engines and make Hartech's brilliant engineering easily accessible to our community here in the US. I'm working way harder than I did before I retired, but feel incredibly blessed to be doing so and am loving every single minute of it.
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Old Yesterday, 10:29 PM
  #705  
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Very surprised to hear of the Jake Raby rebuild with 37K miles that has suffered some ugly Bore Scoring - New thread regarding the issue just popped up.




Quick Reply: Poll: Scored cylinder failure for your 997, Y or N? tell us (yr, 997.1 or 997.2)



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