2006 997.1 turns over but wont start help please!
#16
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i pulled the spark plugs, only cylinder 6 sparkplug was ugly with oil deposits.
my drive is 25kiloM on way and indoor at home, and outside at work.
i hear different noises when turning car key. only way to be sure for me is to place a jumper on relay, open the gas filler cap and place an ear there then turn on car key.
iam not sure on tech jumping, what does it mean if it does please?
my drive is 25kiloM on way and indoor at home, and outside at work.
i hear different noises when turning car key. only way to be sure for me is to place a jumper on relay, open the gas filler cap and place an ear there then turn on car key.
iam not sure on tech jumping, what does it mean if it does please?
#19
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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I'm not sure bore scoring results in a complete no start. Car may not run well but even if compression is down in one cylinder, the car should still start. It may misfire, maybe even a lot, but I still think it would run. OP can you clarify whether it catches and just won't stay running or does it just crank and crank and crank, never firing. If it's the latter, I'm thinking either the fuel pump is shot so there's not fuel or somehting isn't communicating correctly so the engine isn't actually trying to fire or is firing at the wrong time, which to me would mean CPS or another sensor. There are a lot of functions in these cars tied to coolant temp and ambient air temp as well. Intake air temp is built into the MAF sensor and coolant temp is a separate sensor. I would check all of these things before tearing into an engine - yes, you may have to inevitably fix a bore scoring issue if you have one, but I think it's unlikely that a car that drove you to work in the morning and wouldn't start in the afternoon is caused by this. I aso once had a vacuum check valve break in half that created a cranking engine but a no-start condition.
I think this car needs to go to a P-car specialist who can run a battery of tests on the different sensors to rule them out first. Might want to try to find one that has an intake smoker too as that can uncover loose vacuum lines and other issues.
I think this car needs to go to a P-car specialist who can run a battery of tests on the different sensors to rule them out first. Might want to try to find one that has an intake smoker too as that can uncover loose vacuum lines and other issues.
#20
Nordschleife Master
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listen to this man + keep us updated!
I'm not sure bore scoring results in a complete no start. Car may not run well but even if compression is down in one cylinder, the car should still start. It may misfire, maybe even a lot, but I still think it would run. OP can you clarify whether it catches and just won't stay running or does it just crank and crank and crank, never firing. If it's the latter, I'm thinking either the fuel pump is shot so there's not fuel or somehting isn't communicating correctly so the engine isn't actually trying to fire or is firing at the wrong time, which to me would mean CPS or another sensor. There are a lot of functions in these cars tied to coolant temp and ambient air temp as well. Intake air temp is built into the MAF sensor and coolant temp is a separate sensor. I would check all of these things before tearing into an engine - yes, you may have to inevitably fix a bore scoring issue if you have one, but I think it's unlikely that a car that drove you to work in the morning and wouldn't start in the afternoon is caused by this. I aso once had a vacuum check valve break in half that created a cranking engine but a no-start condition.
I think this car needs to go to a P-car specialist who can run a battery of tests on the different sensors to rule them out first. Might want to try to find one that has an intake smoker too as that can uncover loose vacuum lines and other issues.
I think this car needs to go to a P-car specialist who can run a battery of tests on the different sensors to rule them out first. Might want to try to find one that has an intake smoker too as that can uncover loose vacuum lines and other issues.
#21
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If the tech needle does not bounce at all, that could mean the crank position sensor is bad.
i pulled the spark plugs, only cylinder 6 sparkplug was ugly with oil deposits.
my drive is 25kiloM on way and indoor at home, and outside at work.
i hear different noises when turning car key. only way to be sure for me is to place a jumper on relay, open the gas filler cap and place an ear there then turn on car key.
iam not sure on tech jumping, what does it mean if it does please?
my drive is 25kiloM on way and indoor at home, and outside at work.
i hear different noises when turning car key. only way to be sure for me is to place a jumper on relay, open the gas filler cap and place an ear there then turn on car key.
iam not sure on tech jumping, what does it mean if it does please?
#22
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Good day all, and thank you for all the help. my car just cranks and does not catch at this time.
when the car was running, it ran nice, no smoke at start up, no issue other then the extra knock, and i do mean KNOCK.
only other issue recently was at start up which started at least a couple months ago, it always fires up first crank but the oil pressure gauge would stalled for about a second between 1 and 2 bars then goes to 5 bars. when it was new, it went smooth from zero to 5 bars.
great handling car with much passion, just a POS when not running ,,)
when the car was running, it ran nice, no smoke at start up, no issue other then the extra knock, and i do mean KNOCK.
only other issue recently was at start up which started at least a couple months ago, it always fires up first crank but the oil pressure gauge would stalled for about a second between 1 and 2 bars then goes to 5 bars. when it was new, it went smooth from zero to 5 bars.
great handling car with much passion, just a POS when not running ,,)
#26
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the car started twice idle for 2 seconds and died today after tinkering with my Durametric. i gave it gas and nothing like no fuel pressure.
1/ i click on start, under Actuation, Final Fuel Pump Relay stage.
2/ cleared the ECU and Service Now...
hopefully the fuel relay on order from phaff will work.
ON the plus side, iam taking the bus for work and i feel more enviro friendly at least in my mind. LOL!
1/ i click on start, under Actuation, Final Fuel Pump Relay stage.
2/ cleared the ECU and Service Now...
hopefully the fuel relay on order from phaff will work.
ON the plus side, iam taking the bus for work and i feel more enviro friendly at least in my mind. LOL!
Last edited by fatfat; 03-22-2016 at 08:14 PM.
#27
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part#999 657 015 90 installed, first cranked ran for 2 seconds, and second try drove for 5 minutes.
now my traction light, or ABS; yellow light with recycle circle symbol is on never on before, and my red airbag light is on but at least is running
now my traction light, or ABS; yellow light with recycle circle symbol is on never on before, and my red airbag light is on but at least is running
#28
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In reality the sound you are hearing is: "tick, tick, tick" as in "you are driving a time bomb." When the piston or cylinder wall finally lets go the engine will be toast. I don't know if it can be saved at this point but it is in desperate need of help. Good luck here. Bus is good.
#29
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Have you heard it running??? i dont know how YOU can correct me when you have never heard MY CAR RUNNING.
PLEASE be well, and take the best of care as this motor might last longer then the both of us. LOL.
PS, i named her Sarah and i love her so!
PLEASE be well, and take the best of care as this motor might last longer then the both of us. LOL.
PS, i named her Sarah and i love her so!