2006 997.1 turns over but wont start help please!
#1
2006 997.1 turns over but wont start help please!
Hi All, drove my C2 daily driver to work in -28C and will not start 8 hours later. it is now home after a tow.
2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.
i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.
it will not start but turns over strong.
iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.
please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.
i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.
it will not start but turns over strong.
iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.
please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
#4
Race Director
Hi All, drove my C2 daily driver to work in -28C and will not start 8 hours later. it is now home after a tow.
2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.
i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.
it will not start but turns over strong.
iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.
please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.
i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.
it will not start but turns over strong.
iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.
please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
But it could be a fuel pump relay too. I do not have any info on where the fuel pump relay is located.
If not the fuse or the relay...
When what proved to be a fuel pump in my Boxster failed I checked the fuse and found it ok then borrowed a bypass relay from a Porsche tech and eliminated the relay. At this point I had the car flat bedded to the dealer where the tech disconnected the fuel pump from the car's electrical system and supplied shop 12V power and confirmed the pump didn't run. Then he replaced it.
If you find the fuel pump ok then the "engine workshop" warning might signal something deeper, well, not deeper just more esoteric than the fuel pump. I'm thinking crankshaft position sensor or perhaps something with the e-Gas.
#6
i might of found it with the powers of Internet.
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/serv...-location.html
http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/serv...-location.html
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#11
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Maybe something just froze, as that's really freaking cold. Is the place where the car currently is above freezing where whatever might have frozen would by now have thawed?
My 2 guesses are fuel pump or crank position sensor and more likely the latter. Usually when fuel pumps go, but not always, there's some sputtering and surging before complete failure.
Driving these cars in those temps makes them more susceptible to bore-scoring too, as the different metals in the engine expand at different rates during warm-up and the pistons expand faster than the cylinders. This likely is not your current problem though. That's a gradual progressively louder noise, usually like a lifter that won't pump up or a rattle. Just something to he aware of if you want to do some research on it.
My 2 guesses are fuel pump or crank position sensor and more likely the latter. Usually when fuel pumps go, but not always, there's some sputtering and surging before complete failure.
Driving these cars in those temps makes them more susceptible to bore-scoring too, as the different metals in the engine expand at different rates during warm-up and the pistons expand faster than the cylinders. This likely is not your current problem though. That's a gradual progressively louder noise, usually like a lifter that won't pump up or a rattle. Just something to he aware of if you want to do some research on it.
#13
My cylinder #6 has bore scored and burning 1 liter every 800km or so, and knocks louder then a TDI.
i have not replaced fuel pump yet, spoke to parts guy at Phaff and he stated not sold a single one fuel pump nor a relay in last 4 years. Spoke to indy shop guy opened since air-cool motors and he has never replace a fuel pump so iam most likely barking up the wrong tree.
going to test my replay first with volt meter, then test pump with jumper.
if OK, then i need to check for spark. as we all know, it is a pain in the *** with out a PAWIS or what ever the official software was named.
i have not replaced fuel pump yet, spoke to parts guy at Phaff and he stated not sold a single one fuel pump nor a relay in last 4 years. Spoke to indy shop guy opened since air-cool motors and he has never replace a fuel pump so iam most likely barking up the wrong tree.
going to test my replay first with volt meter, then test pump with jumper.
if OK, then i need to check for spark. as we all know, it is a pain in the *** with out a PAWIS or what ever the official software was named.
#14
Do you park outside in those temperatures overnight? Or just for the hours while you are at the office? How far is your commute each morning? What is your "warm up the car" process? How long does it take for your oil temps to reach 95C (200F)?
#15
Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the last position before crank and pause there for a few seconds?
Does the tach needle bounce a little bit when you crank?
Does the tach needle bounce a little bit when you crank?