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2006 997.1 turns over but wont start help please!

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Old 03-16-2016, 07:09 PM
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fatfat
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Default 2006 997.1 turns over but wont start help please!

Hi All, drove my C2 daily driver to work in -28C and will not start 8 hours later. it is now home after a tow.

2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.

i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.

it will not start but turns over strong.

iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.

please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
Old 03-16-2016, 07:17 PM
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Philster
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Do you have any error messages or info messages on the dash info screen during cranking?
Old 03-16-2016, 07:24 PM
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fatfat
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hello, only one i see is - engine workshop which was in yellow lighting.
Old 03-16-2016, 07:41 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by fatfat
Hi All, drove my C2 daily driver to work in -28C and will not start 8 hours later. it is now home after a tow.

2006 Carrera 2, 6spM with 107kilom.

i checked antifreeze from block good up to -41C.
replaced with new battery as it was needed.
no fault codes reported on Durametric software.

it will not start but turns over strong.

iam thinking checking the fuel pump but my fuse panel looks different then earlier models up to 2005. i do not see or know where the fuel pump relay is.

please help, and thank you in advance. Fats.
A fuel pump failure has to be a strong possibility. You need to eliminate that as best you can. The fuse box lid should have a fuse chart.

But it could be a fuel pump relay too. I do not have any info on where the fuel pump relay is located.

If not the fuse or the relay...

When what proved to be a fuel pump in my Boxster failed I checked the fuse and found it ok then borrowed a bypass relay from a Porsche tech and eliminated the relay. At this point I had the car flat bedded to the dealer where the tech disconnected the fuel pump from the car's electrical system and supplied shop 12V power and confirmed the pump didn't run. Then he replaced it.

If you find the fuel pump ok then the "engine workshop" warning might signal something deeper, well, not deeper just more esoteric than the fuel pump. I'm thinking crankshaft position sensor or perhaps something with the e-Gas.
Old 03-16-2016, 07:51 PM
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fatfat
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i checked the 25A fuse for fuel pump looks OK.


can anyone tell me where the Fuel Pump Relay is as i can not find a picture online.
Old 03-16-2016, 08:29 PM
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fatfat
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i might of found it with the powers of Internet.


http://www.planet-9.com/reviews/serv...-location.html
Old 03-16-2016, 08:46 PM
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wc11
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Where is it -28 at this time of year?

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Old 03-16-2016, 08:50 PM
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fatfat
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now i know where the Fuel Pump Relay is located, can anyone suggest the easiest way to test it.

or should i just buy a new one??
Old 03-16-2016, 08:50 PM
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fatfat
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it was the middle of last month in Toronto, Canada.
Old 03-16-2016, 08:56 PM
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fatfat
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Hey Macster, how many miles was on your car when your fuel pump went? was it normal drive with no warning?
Old 03-17-2016, 02:14 PM
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Petza914
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Maybe something just froze, as that's really freaking cold. Is the place where the car currently is above freezing where whatever might have frozen would by now have thawed?

My 2 guesses are fuel pump or crank position sensor and more likely the latter. Usually when fuel pumps go, but not always, there's some sputtering and surging before complete failure.

Driving these cars in those temps makes them more susceptible to bore-scoring too, as the different metals in the engine expand at different rates during warm-up and the pistons expand faster than the cylinders. This likely is not your current problem though. That's a gradual progressively louder noise, usually like a lifter that won't pump up or a rattle. Just something to he aware of if you want to do some research on it.
Old 03-17-2016, 09:39 PM
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wc11
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Yeah it was cold last month.
So did a fuel pump fix it?
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Old 03-18-2016, 11:21 AM
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fatfat
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My cylinder #6 has bore scored and burning 1 liter every 800km or so, and knocks louder then a TDI.

i have not replaced fuel pump yet, spoke to parts guy at Phaff and he stated not sold a single one fuel pump nor a relay in last 4 years. Spoke to indy shop guy opened since air-cool motors and he has never replace a fuel pump so iam most likely barking up the wrong tree.

going to test my replay first with volt meter, then test pump with jumper.

if OK, then i need to check for spark. as we all know, it is a pain in the *** with out a PAWIS or what ever the official software was named.
Old 03-18-2016, 12:38 PM
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semicycler
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Originally Posted by fatfat
My cylinder #6 has bore scored and burning 1 liter every 800km or so, and knocks louder then a TDI.
Hate to suggest it but perhaps you no longer have enough compression in your engine to start the motor? Bore scoring in at least one cylinder confirmed, excessive oil consumption, parking for hours in -28C (-18F) followed by starting problems. Leading theories on bore scoring links it to cold weather and fast loads on the engine prior to fully warming up the car. At this point I'd wager you have more than just one cylinder with low compression (ie. bore scoring).

Do you park outside in those temperatures overnight? Or just for the hours while you are at the office? How far is your commute each morning? What is your "warm up the car" process? How long does it take for your oil temps to reach 95C (200F)?
Old 03-18-2016, 01:02 PM
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Ahsai
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Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to the last position before crank and pause there for a few seconds?

Does the tach needle bounce a little bit when you crank?


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