sidwin

i've thought about replacing my tooki with the tranzit. can someone show a video of them actually using it in a 997? i would like to see how the display looks with the audio being streamed. also if they were listening to the radio and cd player what happens when the phone rings? What about phone book entries?

right now with tooki, tooki will notify incoming call. i just hate the voice quality with the tooki.

The simplicity of the tranzit is what i like but not sure if it has all the feature/functionality one would like.

Ezkill

So I put in an order through the ebay add, actually called 702 motoring and they hooked me up with the adapters I need for my 997.2 with Bose and Nav. They appear to be the same adapters if anyone is wondering.

Any of you guys have an idea of how to shield the wires after the splice? At worst I'll use electrical tape but IMHO that's an iffy permanent solution since it can dry out and start to unravel. Normally I'd heat shrink this type of connection but that would mean pulling the wires from the connector harness so I could get some heat shrink over the wires. Hoping to avoid that.

Anyone have a good solution?

myw

i dont think there is anything wrong with the elec tape. if the wires are twisted and crimped i cant see how a healthy amount of good quality elec tape would become undone (it has never happend to me in my previous stereo installs).

and guys 702-motoring on ebay is the best pricing.... i bought a few sets from them a few months back for me and my friends. i posted the link in one of my earliest posts. he will get you the proper antenna adapters for approx 20 bucks.

myw

here you go brothers! exactly what i bought.

make sure you let Paul know that you will need the

"Antenna Adapter kit for EUROPEAN CARS make/year of car and he'll know which antenna kit you'll need to purchase. the kit should be under 20$; not to mention free shipping as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/iSIMPLE-ISFM...item27da1e2a81

Ezkill

I'm probably over thinking it. Electrical tape is a horrible idea for actual high voltage electrical as it does unravel, dry out, lose stickiness. I pretty much stopped using it after an incident with some DIY LED lighting I installed for my reef tank. Caps and heat shrink all the way. Just figured with cars being routinely subjected to temperature swings and humidity that I might go another route. As I said over thinking it. Low voltage stereo electrical shouldn't be an issue. I'll just go with the tape.

myw

sometimes i use elec tape + caps. ive never used heat shrink (yet)!

Ezkill

Not that I'm an electrician but I did some reading on this topic after the LED incident, haha. Electricians consider tape used with wire nuts to be wrong and just taping electrical connections isn't up to code. Again, not an electrician, and this is more for interior high voltage connections.

I started soldering and heat shrinking my connections after I had the problem. Not going to go to that level installing a Tranzit Blu, I'll just do the tape like you guys have done.

Wasn't initially going to do the Tranzit as I was pretty happy with the Jabra Freeway but since I'm pulling panels and replacing them with leather ones anyway I might as well take the time to install this

mwolfe

It is unbelievably easy. I also got the heebie-jeebies (did I spell that right?) looking at the splice and tape method--but then I did the same thing. There is not a lot of extra wire behind the PCM. It actually would be easier to cut, strip, splice, solder/shrinkwrap--if there was more wire. Time will tell.

Ezkill

Let me ask you guys a quick question as I'm learning as I go along here and I'm having trouble finding information on the installation in a 997.2 with PCM 3.0.

The PCM 3.0 does not have a 12v+ accessory wire, it instead has an always on red wire on pin 15 I believe as I just looked at a few diagrams of the harness. I'm assuming I don't want that wire because then the tranzit blu HF would alway be on.

So...for you guys that know a hell of a lot more then me, Could I instead tap wire and ground from the 12v outlet in the passenger footwell? I assume(but haven't tested yet) that it only supplies voltage with the key in the ignition.

ilko

You don't want to tap into the red wire because it will eventually drain the battery if you leave it on for too long.

And sadly the 12V outlet line is always on as well. In my MB I can move a fuse to change it to on with ignition, but not on the Porsche.

You can try some of the wires coming out of the HVAC module, those should be live only with the ignition on.

Ezkill

Thanks ilko.

I'll know more when I pull the stereo out. I just like to educate myself before opening stuff up as I've run into situations where I've had a car pulled apart for extended periods of time. When I did a supercharger swap on my Shelby I didn't do enough research and spent an entire day figuring out a solution to get one bolt out. Ended up with me buying extra wrenches and essentially fabricating a socket to remove one bolt that no combination of elbows and extenders could get at.

I'm very good at turning 1 day projects into 4 day projects

ilko

LOL, we are all good at those projects

Now I have to ask, how do you know that the PCM 3.0 doesn't have an accessory 12V wire? Does it turn off immediately after you turn the car off (without removing the key from the ignition)? Or does it stay on for a few seconds and then turns itself off?

Because the wire I tapped into is on a sort of a timer. Stays on for 20 seconds or so after the car's been shut off, and then turns itself off.

Ezkill

I looked at a wiring diagram for the PCM 3.0 and did some googling. Various sources including message boards have indicated that the PCM 3.0 has a red power wire(not white) that is always hot. I haven't tested it myself but I've confirmed it via half a dozen or so sources.

Right now I'm looking at using a fuse tap on an empty fuse C1 for rear wheel drive cars to power it. Per an instructional done on hardwiring a radar detector: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...smartcord.html

Since I'm pulling lower dash panels and radio panels to replace with full leather pieces it shouldn't be much of an issue to route the power wire and fuse tap to the fuse box.

Edit: Costs an extra 15 dollars on amazon prime including a 120 assorted fuse pack which I need anyway. Seems a good solution as it will avoid splicing(which I honestly wasn't looking forward to) and I can solder and shrink my connections. Little extra work but completely reversible installation. I know the splicing is no big deal and I've done it a lot but one errant slip of the knife and I could have a larger problem. This seems an elegant and easy solution. Thanks for all the help in this thread. I'll document the process and post some pictures to help out 997.2 owners that are interested in the future.

sidwin

since no one answered i'm guessing the station must be on for the unit to ring in. i'm guessing if you are listening to the cd, or different radio station and a call comes in, you won't hear it ringing. That would be a deal breaker. i like to be able to listen to the radio or my mp3 cd instead of having to stream everything from my iphone.

Hunt3R

Personally I bought the TransIt BLU mainly for the ability to stream music from my phone. However if I ever do recreate the situation you're wondering about and I find out how it works then I'll post how it handled it.

And in case anyone with a Windows Phone 8.1 was wondering, it turned out that the VR (Cortana) does work after all with the TransIt BLU. I've been using it to change music and answer texts so far since installing it, although a couple times it hasn't responded. I expect the buggyness is in the phone and maybe it will get sorted out with the official 8.1 release.