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997.2 Engine Reliability

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Old 07-22-2013, 12:21 AM
  #61  
Robocop305
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I'm exited to read all of these positives experiences about our cars.
Old 07-23-2013, 05:05 PM
  #62  
RobC4sX51
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Me too Robocop! I have had my '10 C2s PDK cab for almost 3 weeks and the car has 33500 miles. I hope to have many years of trouble free fun with the car. Any of you hear of or use a fuel additive called BG44? I have used it on my '02 Passat, wife's V8 Treg, and considering a pint for the 911. My local German car mechanic recommended it several years ago and I usually put a can in every 20-30k miles, only costs about $20.
Old 07-23-2013, 09:12 PM
  #63  
Mumbles
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Hey Rob, I know that my local P dealer added something to the tank upon my 4yr service, they said this product could be added every other tank. Made the car a lot more responsive especially from a standing stop. ( wonder if its what your on about ) ?
Priced out at $ 20.00 per unit
Old 07-24-2013, 11:52 PM
  #64  
RobC4sX51
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Could be. I paid $22 today (went up from last year) & went ahead and added to a full tank of gas (it treats up to 20 gallons). Put a can in the wife's '08 V8 Treg too, as it was due. Ask your dealer if it was BG44? Thx.
Old 08-13-2013, 11:22 PM
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Miami911
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I did a BG products ISC (Induction System Cleaner) treatment at 38,000 miles. I bore scoped the engine after the treatment to see what kind of carbon/coking was left on the intake valves. I was pretty happy with the results. I actually purchased my own equipment, so I can perform this treatment on my 2009 911 and my Wife's 2013 X3 2.0 liter in the future as preventive maintenance. I intend on doing this treatment one more time on my car in the next few days, then I will give each car a treatment every 15,000 miles to prevent coking build up.

Mityvac 5565

Mityvac MVA550

http://www.lincolnindustrial.com/asp...570_MV5565.pdf
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Last edited by Miami911; 08-13-2013 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Add different picture
Old 08-14-2013, 12:55 AM
  #66  
Robocop305
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Wow, it looks like a great product! How much would you charge me for a clean up?
Old 08-14-2013, 10:29 AM
  #67  
chsu74
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Originally Posted by SteveFromMN
Porche is now using this new engine in the Turbo. I think that says it all.
New GT3s are now outfitted with the 9A1 engine also but cup cars are still running with Mezger power plants. Mezger engines are over engineered, expensive and race proven. A 993 owner just hit 300K miles without opening the engine up.

Time will tell on the 9A1 power plant but Porsche is no longer an engineering company first and business man second.
Old 08-14-2013, 12:06 PM
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Bob Rouleau

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Porsche has not fitted the 9A1 engine to the Cup cars because FIA is still dithering about new engine rules. So they play it safe with the 'old' engine.

The new engine will find its way into the race cars without a doubt.
Old 08-14-2013, 09:24 PM
  #69  
KNS
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I believe the 9A1 engine is now found in the new GT3 and possibly Turbo but it is not the same 9A1 as found on the regular 991s. More oil passages among other things are found in the GT 9A1.
Old 09-28-2013, 01:08 PM
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DrJupeman
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Originally Posted by Alan C.
I didn't find the 964 series to be a low point. Both my 93 RSA and my 94 3.6 turbo were bullet proof. Both were tracked and the RSA had more track than street miles.
Agreed, 964s rock! Other than the initial oil leaking problem that was resolved later on, the cars are bullet proof. I dd'd a 964 for 4 years and spent $35 in unscheduled maintenance. I raced a Turbo 3.6 for a brief time and have pounded on my 964 Cup for years. The time was a low point for Porsche, but the cars weren't. 964 RS is perhaps the best "driver" car since the 2.7 RS.
Old 12-07-2013, 05:44 PM
  #71  
cool flash
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Looking through the German version of Cartrader I am beginning to see used 997.2 (both 345 / 385 hp versions and PDK / manual) which are on their second engine. Obviously the ads don't state the reasons for the replacement but anyone has any ideas what they might be?

Thanks.

Regards,

CF
997.2 C2 6MT
Old 12-07-2013, 08:03 PM
  #72  
fbfisher
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Originally Posted by DrJupeman
Agreed, 964s rock! Other than the initial oil leaking problem that was resolved later on, the cars are bullet proof. I dd'd a 964 for 4 years and spent $35 in unscheduled maintenance. I raced a Turbo 3.6 for a brief time and have pounded on my 964 Cup for years. The time was a low point for Porsche, but the cars weren't. 964 RS is perhaps the best "driver" car since the 2.7 RS.
That's too funny, (not), because just today a friend told me he needs a complete rebuild of his 964 with only 67k on the clock.

There is no such thing as "bullet proof" because mechanical things break. Get an extended warranty and you'll sleep better knowing that if your bullet proof engine fails, you're protected.
Old 12-08-2013, 10:46 AM
  #73  
Fahrer
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Deja vu...... I remember going through the Bimmerfest forums a few years ago and observing how much the 335 and 535 owners were in denial about carbon buildup in their DFI engines. "Only Audis have that problem". Well, the new widely understood "big tune up" is for those DFI engines in BMWs is the removal of gunk and carbon in the intake areas, using solvents and walnut particles..... about $400. The VW group ( and Toyota) know the solution. They have been introducing engines with two sets of injectors...Direct and Port. In the case of VW, the DFI is used for idling and full power/high load. The port injectors are used most of the time due to superior air/fuel mixing. The DFI offers piston cooling but produces more soot and leads to carbon/sludge buildup in the intake area. The port injector will actually make use of those detergents in the fuel to keep the intake area /valves clean. But I have heard that "Porsche engines are different"....OK
Old 12-14-2013, 02:15 PM
  #74  
JSeven
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40.000km on my 2009 997.2S with zero problems. Had a 996 that blow the engine with 50.000km on it, devasting sensation I can assure you.

J.Seven
Old 12-16-2013, 12:53 AM
  #75  
997v2cabrio
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Does any know why Porsche does not want their engines idling? The owners manual says "When starting the engine, be ready to drive
immediately.
Drive vehicle at moderate speeds and avoid
engine speeds above 4,200 rpm during the
first 5 minutes.
Do not let the engine idle to warm up."


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