ROTtec Front LEDs Installed
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 111
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From: Waltham, MA
Edgy, good luck getting a warrantee replacement. Ray is good about getting back to you when you have money to spend, but when you need something replaced, you don't hear back. I've been trying since August to get mine replaced. I've given up. I hope you have better luck.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 96
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Today I actually connected Load Resistors to the wiring for the horizontal light bars I'm using as the DRLs, as I believe these are the lights that are causing the warning message on the dash, since the message I get is Check Right Front Side and Check Left Front Side - I don't get a warning with "Indicator" or "Fog" or "Marker" in the message, so I think it's the lights I'm using as the Parking Light and DRL that are causing the message.
Anyway, after connecting the resistors I started the car for a few seconds and still got the error message - I also touched the resistor after the car had been running for only about 10 seconds and couldn't believe how hot it had become. Based on that quick experiment, I disconnected the resistors and personally, don't think it's a good idea to use these on lights that will be on all the time (might be OK for turn signals only used every so often) as the temperatures generated by the resistors is very high and can't be good for anything in close proximity to them. I had found a nice all metal pocket that was part of the front bumper assembly and frame to drop them into so I wouldn't have to worry about some heat, but after feeling the amount of heat after just 10 seconds, pulled them out anyway. For now, I'm going to live with the warning message since the resistors didn't solve the warning message issue anyway. It's possible that the SPDT relay setup may cause this problem - not sure. My resistors were the aluminum type and maybe the ceramic versions run a little cooler. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules to Deactivate a Light Warning, but I'm not sure what this does - it might be for when you leave the headlight switch on and remove the key or maybe it turns off notifications for all the light bulb warning messages. If someone knows, please share.
For now, I'm going to live with the warning message. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules for .
Responding to Musclehedz101, putting the regular bulb back into the socket is probably a worthwhile test to pinpoint which lighting circuit is causing the message. Doing just one side and leaving the other the way it is now would certainly make another data point. Regarding your question, yes, you probably could run just the positive output from the SPDT Relay and scotch-lock onto both parking light + wires and not run the grounds. When I did the initial install with the first Current Sensing DRL module (without the SPDT), I had followed the instructions that came with the current sensing DRL module and had already run both the + and - down to the parking light wires, so I figured I might as well connect all the ground wires together and tie them back to - battery terminal to prevent the possibility of any ground loops, but it may not have been necessary. After damaging two of the DRL modules though, I wasn't sure how robust these were, so I figured, better safe than sorry.
I'll try to find some time to put together a wiring diagram that graphically represents what I verbally explained in my posts.
Anyway, after connecting the resistors I started the car for a few seconds and still got the error message - I also touched the resistor after the car had been running for only about 10 seconds and couldn't believe how hot it had become. Based on that quick experiment, I disconnected the resistors and personally, don't think it's a good idea to use these on lights that will be on all the time (might be OK for turn signals only used every so often) as the temperatures generated by the resistors is very high and can't be good for anything in close proximity to them. I had found a nice all metal pocket that was part of the front bumper assembly and frame to drop them into so I wouldn't have to worry about some heat, but after feeling the amount of heat after just 10 seconds, pulled them out anyway. For now, I'm going to live with the warning message since the resistors didn't solve the warning message issue anyway. It's possible that the SPDT relay setup may cause this problem - not sure. My resistors were the aluminum type and maybe the ceramic versions run a little cooler. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules to Deactivate a Light Warning, but I'm not sure what this does - it might be for when you leave the headlight switch on and remove the key or maybe it turns off notifications for all the light bulb warning messages. If someone knows, please share.
For now, I'm going to live with the warning message. I did notice in the Durametric coding options though there is a selection under one of the modules for .
Responding to Musclehedz101, putting the regular bulb back into the socket is probably a worthwhile test to pinpoint which lighting circuit is causing the message. Doing just one side and leaving the other the way it is now would certainly make another data point. Regarding your question, yes, you probably could run just the positive output from the SPDT Relay and scotch-lock onto both parking light + wires and not run the grounds. When I did the initial install with the first Current Sensing DRL module (without the SPDT), I had followed the instructions that came with the current sensing DRL module and had already run both the + and - down to the parking light wires, so I figured I might as well connect all the ground wires together and tie them back to - battery terminal to prevent the possibility of any ground loops, but it may not have been necessary. After damaging two of the DRL modules though, I wasn't sure how robust these were, so I figured, better safe than sorry.
I'll try to find some time to put together a wiring diagram that graphically represents what I verbally explained in my posts.
Do you have a resistor for the parking lights? Those are the ones that usually cause problems.
RL Community Team
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 28,601
Likes: 8,393
From: Clemson, SC
Parking Lights
Cayenne,
Thanks for the input. I too think it's probably the parking lights, as that's the circuit I'm using as my DRLs with the fiber optic horizontal portion of the front LED light assemblies that goes through the SPDT Relay. Once idea I have is to try a diode on the positive wire so that current can't go backwards to the SPDT Relay which may be proving a strange response back to the car so it thinks the lights are out. I just haven't had time to play around with it since my last post, but maybe over the Christmas break.
Pete
Thanks for the input. I too think it's probably the parking lights, as that's the circuit I'm using as my DRLs with the fiber optic horizontal portion of the front LED light assemblies that goes through the SPDT Relay. Once idea I have is to try a diode on the positive wire so that current can't go backwards to the SPDT Relay which may be proving a strange response back to the car so it thinks the lights are out. I just haven't had time to play around with it since my last post, but maybe over the Christmas break.
Pete
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
It should be as simple as putting in a resistor before ever getting to any of the relays etc. Basically taping/splicing a resistor into the factory wiring for the del. I made some home made drls a couple years ago and basically just unplugged the fog light and have a resistor plugged into the parking light wiring which is then plugged into the less. With this set up I can actually completely unplug the leds and the car still won't throw off a code.
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