mglobe

Ok, so I've got about 1/2 a bottle (probably four coats) of Z2pro on my car at this point over the course of several weekends. Now I'm reading about the new Z5pro, and wondering, what do I have to do to apply it? Can I just wash my car, put on Z5, then Z2? Or do I have to somehow strip the Z2? I'm not into Concours. It's a daily driver. I'm just trying to keep my car looking new and hot.

Deanski

Nope, just wash it if you already have Z2 on it. Spray with Z6 or Z8. Mist your pad with same. Mix up some Z5-Pro and apply (ZFX and Z5-Pro). Same thing as any Zaino, use the Z6 or Z8 between coats (up to 3) in one day.

The new Z5-Pro does hide a bit better, but it's no glaze. It's glossy and deper looking on dark finishes. Much better than previous formula. If it's purple in color, it's new Z5-Pro.

To me, the new Z8 is really the icing! Very slick and glossy. Mostly used for that time you want added gloss. Z6 is still just fine!

Regards,
Dr. Shine

ronmart

Here's my 2 cents on what the beginners kit or what I'd take with me on an island list:

A car wash product for regular washes (I like Griots Car Wash, but Meguires isn't going to kill your car)

A mitt

A bottle of Dawn for a pre-wax & sealant wash

Klasse All-In-One and Sealant Glaze with microfiber applicators (which aren't expensive)

Microfiber towels (personally I like the Sonus brands from Autopia)

Stoner Invisible Glass

A vinyl and rubber dressing (Meguires, Griots, etc... you pick)

Meguiars Versa-Angle Wheel Face Brush

A 5 gallon bucket with a grit gaurd

A hose with a nozzle

Optionally a Carnuaba wax like P21s or Griots or Meguairs

In my opinion that is enough to make the non-**** types of the world very happy, and it should cost you about $100. For the rest of us, then follow this thread and visit DetailCity and Autopia's forums for more info.

THPorsche

Thanks! Time to do some online shopping!

billco

I have a bottle and a half of the older Z5 (not pro). Have been using it on my 997 and it looks great. Would the new "Z5 Pro" do anything for me or should I continue to use up what I have. I really don't have any swirls or spider web scratches.

MMD

P21S Carnauba wax
Griot's Speed Shine
some name brand kind of tar, sap remover (basically kerosene)
microfiber drying cloths (100 times better than terry towels)
soft bristle wheel brush
two wash mitts, one for wheels one for car.

Basically don't wash the lower parts of the car and then start washing the top parts of the car. Keep in mind, because the car is dirty, you're basically "wet sanding" the car everytime you wash it; you always want to take measures to minimize the grit content in the wash mitt.

Rubber, vinyl conditioner such as Lexol.

Get a groit's catalog and just buy the stuff which makes sense to you.

It's like this at trade in time: if you're a fanatic and have OCD over detailing your car religiously so the car's finish is PERFECT with zero minor dents or dings they'll probably throw in another $300 (three hundred) for the trade in.

robbonds

where does everyone buy their microfiber towels?
will these do? $3.99 each
http://www.microfibertech.com/index....PROD&ProdID=29

Deanski

Sure, those are good.

You can also go with: PAKSHAK

Or: Autopia and Sonus Towels Look at "Buffing Towels" for the Autopia "CBT" towel. Very soft.

Along the same lines as a "CBT" is: DF Towels

All very good. I also have several of Poorboys "DMT" ones, which are very nice a well. Poorboys If you look at the bottom of the page, you'll see my former car Lexus SC430 there.

It's always wise to have a different type of towel for different uses. Some have a bit more bite where others are very plush for final detail work and QD work. When it comes to removing polishes, waxes etc, you want to use one that has a shorter nap than a nice plush one. Then, for final buffing, as some have both sides, use the plush side or plush towel for final pass and buff.

Always wash MF towels by themselves, never in a wash with other fabrics as other fabrics can get caught in the fibers of the MF. I also rinse with a cup of white vinegar in the rinse cycle to remove all soap. Dry at medium to low heat with no fabric softener sheets. Or hang to dry to avoid static buildup if you do not want it. Sometimes it's good to have the added static buildup to help trap light dust when you QD. Other times you do not want it while final polishing.

Nice to have different colors, this way you can use whatever color for each type of work.

The MF towels say at Target, Wal-Mart etc are only good for wheels and engine. Some are OK for interior as long as it's not the PCM screen.

Regards,
Dr. Shine

ronmart

Those look like polishing towels (for polish and wax removal), but they look fine from the pictures.

For drying, I highly recommend the Sonus Der Wunder Drying Towel which is sold in pairs. I recommend 4 for your 911. You can find a similar towel at other places, but go for the blue kind not the yellow ones with red edging as they don't seem to be as durable.

They also do better if you hang dry them (although I keep them in the dryer until my damp dry signal comes on to reduce the dry time to about 12 hours).

ronmart

Sal must be pretty busy these days because I e-mailed him on Monday and still no reply.

Deanski

Try calling him.

Deanski