brickster

I plan to store a 99 996 cab this winter in a garage in Vermont. I would appreicate any tips on long term storage. Has anyone used Car Capsule? The garage is unheated and I am concerned about rodents possibly getting in as the temperature goes down. Is tire flat spotting a real issue?

tbill

Use the "trickle charger" for batteries, steel wool in exhaust pipes ("mouse free" in the spring) good car cover also.

Michael1

Long term storage is work!

Car should be jacked up off the ground, so you don't get wheel bearing and tire flat spotting.

Spark plugs should be removed, and cylinder protectant sprayed in the cylinders.

To really do it right, you should disassemble the cam system, and release the valves, so none are open, to prevent weaking the springs on those cylinders which are open. If you are going to be around, you could just rotate the engine occasionally to accomplish the same thing.

Rodents are a problem. They can chew up wiring (yes, I've had it happen to me). Their defecation can corrode painted surfaces (also had this happen). If they get inside your car, they can chew up upholstery, and even build nests (I don't even want to think about this episode).

You should fill the tank, and put gasoline stabilizer in the tank. Run the engine for a bit after adding the stabilizer, so it is run throughout the fuel system.

Just before storing, I would run the car up to full operating temperature, to boil off any condensation in the crankcase and exhaust system.

I may have forgotten a thing or two, but this should cover most of it.

Michael

amfp

I inflate tires + 10 pounds, and park under plywood and carpets to avoid flat spots. When possible move car every three weeks a foot (without starting). Change oil and any dirty fluids. Fill tank with stabilzer. Plug all openings that mice can get in. Trickle charger. I place moth ***** in socks and place them in engine bay, and bonnet area. I place Bounty fabric softner strips inside the car (mice seems not to like the smell). I also put moth ***** around and under car. I do crack windows and ajar doors hood and trunk for the seals. Also place baited mouse traps along walls.

I do visit the car every two - fours weeks or so and make sure nothing seems odd, like mouse droppings. When checking, I do try to drive for 30-45 minutes - weather permitting. And do the process over again. I know it is a bit much, but been doing this for about 20 years with no problems.

1999Porsche911

DO NOT jack the car off the ground as you will entent the shocks and rust will form on the pistons.

MMD

yeah I read this too. Not sure what heppens with the rusty uppermost section of the pistion shafts that are always exposed unless the car is hitting bumps. There's gotta be some clearer/scraper seal on the piston cylinder?

If you really want to get into it I would get some concrete mix at Home Depot and place a batch in a large enough tray or frame made out of 1x4s and shove a tire's treads into it until it hardens. Do this three more times and you have four concrete "cups" to drive the car onto so the tires have ZERO flat spotting.

I'd also cconsider putting a small fan inside on an "infinite timer" so you can set it to go on for a few minutes several times a day. This will prevent mildew from forming. I don't know why but it is a fact that Mildew has a hard time growing when the air is or has been moving.

One more thing I stored a car all winter in Massachusetts, came back in spring and there was a family of mice in deep inside the engine under the air intake. I guess you SHOULD encapsulate the car.

1999Porsche911

If you want to jackup up the car for storage, coat the shock pistons with light grease after the wheels are off the ground. This will protect them. Remember, storing a car for long periods of time without starting wil increase the likelyhod of seal leaks. To avoid this, I would recommend warming the engine up to full temp at least once every 3 - 4 weeks. If you are unable to do that, I would not store my car with synthetic oil, but would change the oil to a fosil oil a week or 2 before storage. Fosil oil will maintain the flexability of seals longer while stored than will synthetic. I would also overfill the cranckase with oil. Be sure to place a sign on the car that it should not be started before the excess oil is removed.

Be sure to cover the tailpipes with pantyhose and place a few sticky mouse traps inside the car and on top of the engine. Spray engine, brakes. etc with a fogging oil. There is no need to remove plugs as long as the car is at full operating temp when shut off.

MJones

Your owners manual has a good base of storage tips!

Storing your Porsche
If you intend to store your Porsche for a prolonged period, please consult your authorized Porsche dealer. The staff will be glad to advise you on the most suitable and necessary methods.
•Clean your vehicle thoroughly inside and outside. Clean the engine compartment. The under carriage and chassis components should be free of dirt and salt deposits.
•Fill up the fuel tank.
• Change the oil and oil filter, and run the engine
for several minutes.
••Increase the tire pressure to 58 psi (4 bar).It is not recommended to lift the vehicle, due to the possibility of corrosion on shock absorber piston shafts.
The vehicle should be moved slightly, approxi-mately every four weeks, to prevent flat spot on the tires.
Climate control
The air conditioning system should be in good working condition and fully charged.
Windshield/Headlight washer
Check and correct antifreeze/cleaning solution level as necessary.
Electrical system f
•Remove the battery from the vehicle and store it in a cool dry place, not on a cement floor.
When the battery is disconnected, the alarm system is deactivated.
•Recharge the battery every 3 months. If the
battery remains in the vehicle with the cables connected, it is necessary to check, remove and recharge the battery every 2-3 weeks. Do not fast charge the battery.
• Please observe the chapter “BATTERY” on Page 212.
Vehicle interior
The interior must be dry, especially in the area of the floor carpets. The use of drying agents (Silica- Gel) is recommended in vehicles with leather inte-rior and in areas with high humidity. The recommended amount is 3 fabric bags of 1.1 lbs. (500grams) each placed on the floor carpets.
Windows, doors and lids must be closed. The air vents should be opened.

I'am so glad that I live in SoCal where I can drive all year long

brickster

thanks all for your advice. I must say almost makes me want to trade the car in but i can't bear to part with it.

SrfCity

Jeez, sounds like a lot of hassle. Can't you or someone take it out for a spin every once and a while? In the meantime a cocoon and battery tender.

gota911

You can skip all of that storage stuff and just drive it down to North Carolina in early October and leave it with me. I'll drive it twice a week and and keep it rodent, rust, and dust free! I'll even have it polished and waxed when you pick it up next Spring!

MMD

Hey..., a while ago I heard about these longterm storage places for cars. They will do exactly what's necessary and correct to keep your car in the best possibe shape (i.e starting and full warm up). Not sure where they are, but if you are close to a big city maybe one is nearby? On the net somewhere? Sorry I can't be more helpful

Porky

OR, just lend me the car, I will take it for a 20 minute drive every sunday morning, go through the gears make sure its air con is used (no nasty stink when you get back). The fuel tank will always be full, the brakes won't rust, the car will feel perfect when you get back.

JTM

I overinflate and park on thick rubber mats, top off gas and add Stabil, wash and wax, treat all rubber, plug exhaust and air intake, use mothballs in all areas, remove bat. and place on trickle charger, then insert car in Car Capsule for duration of winter. Capsule protects from nosey mice and is said to circulate air to help prevent condensation etc. Wouldn't take chance with mice, you may find that you have them after it's too late. Capsule is cheap insurance.