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Having an issue with brake bleeder screws sealing. I have already replaced them and (2) still are not sealing. I get a slight weep out of the threads around the new bleeder valves. It looks like it may have been an issue on one side before, as I had a little whitish fluid when bleeding one side of the front caliper.
Two replaced bleeder screws had corrosion on the base of bleeder screw (water). Anyone encounter this before? Does anyone have the part number for speed bleeder screws? (they come with thread sealant installed) (Base brakes 2008 3.6L)
I have the speed bleeder sealant on order to apply on threads, but looking for any suggestions or experience with a similar issue. Not going to use teflon tape, not going to be a neanderthal and torque them down to far.
I'm afraid you're on a slippery slope here. The screws are made from steel and the caliper from aluminum.
Either the seat (at the bottom) is damaged or the threads (in the caliper) are wearing out.
I think in both cases the only solution is to get the caliper rebuilt (if that's even possible).
Ask me how I know....
I'm afraid you're on a slippery slope here. The screws are made from steel and the caliper from aluminum.
Either the seat (at the bottom) is damaged or the threads (in the caliper) are wearing out.
I think in both cases the only solution is to get the caliper rebuilt (if that's even possible).
Ask me how I know....
Yeah its a shame, the calipers are in excellent shape and only have 19K on them. Looks like it is possible the PO or the tech who worked on the car prior possibly over tightened them. Im looking at some bleeder screws that have more of a pointed tip/sealant other than OEM ones.
Over torquing then won't solve the issue - the taper on the bottom of the bleeder seals with the taper in the caliper. If new bleeders haven't solved it, then Teflon tape is actually the answer - had to do it on my 914 about 20 years ago.
Over torquing then won't solve the issue - the taper on the bottom of the bleeder seals with the taper in the caliper. If new bleeders haven't solved it, then Teflon tape is actually the answer - had to do it on my 914 about 20 years ago.
I pulled the two offending bleeder valves and wiped the two seats off, with a rag (what a mess). One seat had a small piece of debris. Cleaned and inspected new bleeder screws. Re-installed, so far after 24hrs no leaks. If I get anymore fluid, will try sealing paste I have on the way, then resort to teflon tape if it persists. I think I have a good seal at this point.
Again its a very slight weep...after 24hrs and even driving its what you see in the picture.
I pulled the two offending bleeder valves and wiped the two seats off, with a rag (what a mess). One seat had a small piece of debris. Cleaned and inspected new bleeder screws. Re-installed, so far after 24hrs no leaks. If I get anymore fluid, will try sealing paste I have on the way, then resort to teflon tape if it persists. I think I have a good seal at this point.
Again its a very slight weep...after 24hrs and even driving its what you see in the picture.
Thanks for the responses!
Speed Bleeder Sealant
Anything on the mating tapers that keeps them from mating fully would allow fluid past them. You may have found and fixed it.
I have the stainless Speed Bleeders on most of my cars.
I went to the extreme of replacing the rear calipers on mine one time. When it happened again, with proper torquing of the bleeders, I decided to have the master mechanic at my dealer (30+ years of experience) deal with it. He applied Loctite 545 that he special ordered to the threads of new bleeders. Even after the brakes being bled a couple years after initial application, there has been no issues.
There have been some concerns with using teflon tape, not saying whether you should do it either way, but figured I'd link the threads:
I mean, the threads themselves shouldn't do any sealing, the taper does...and hydraulic tapers should always be fit without sealant. So *in theory* using tape or sealant is wrong in this application.
In practice, if it weren't sealing at the torque spec (and a new bleeder didn't fix it) I'd be comfortable trying some sealant on my own car. I can't see how it would cause a catastrophic failure: worst case it would leak a bit, and it's already leaking bit anyway. So that's something I'd be wiling to try on my own car, I'd just keep a careful eye on it for a while after doing it.
My guess is the female side of the taper is munged up a bit. Seems like that would be common enough with aluminum calipers that there would be a tool to restore that surface in-situ (like basically a fine diamond conical file or something) but I'm no brake caliper expert.
This is the first time I have had this happen to me. Worked on plenty of other peoples cars, 964 turbos/996s/997s/G bodies, never have seen this. Looks like PO or tech made a mess of internal seats. Its a weep not necessarily a leak but its not confidence inspiring to say the least. I don't see the potential to bring air into the system.
Will head down the route of the speed bleeder thread sealant (most likely similar to Loctite 545). No leaks as of yet. System is bled, brakes work well.
9 times out of 10 it was a small piece of debris in the bottom of the bleeder valve, which is common after doing a brake bleed. Keep an eye on it, but in my personal opinion, you’re good to go.
So that Loctite 545... Fine for sealing, but what happens next bleed when you loosen the nipple? Do you have to remove the nipple and re-apply?
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
As far as I know, they didn't remove the bleeder and reapply. No mention of it on the invoice, although I did mention to them that it was done the prior time. Maybe once it's coated on the threads, it blocks enough from going past. The tech at the time thought that the new bleeders alone may be enough but put the Loctite on to avoid a repeat visit and had no concerns with any sort of issues being caused from it. He races his own car and with the amount of experience he has, I rarely question his recommendations.
01-27-2024, 01:15 PM
Leaky Brake Bleeder Screws
