atr911

If the mating surface is damaged, at the very least, you need to have a new surfaced machined to match the bleeder surface. Re read the part about how a bleeder seals. It has nothing to do with the threads, all they do is offer a means to apply force to the mating surface.

To answer your question about looking at the bleeder hole, remove the solid line from behind the caliper and use a vacuum hose cap (small rubber cap) to stop the flow from gravity. You can use another one in the caliper to stop the flow there too. When you've stopped all the flow, remove border screw, clean out fluid and take a look.

I'll reiterate that I don't think you'll find a problem but you can do this for piece of mind.

LlBr

Doable by a professional machine shop, of course. If it were hydraulics on a crummy car or piece of lawn maintenance equipment it could be a DIY.

mdrums

nope wont work, hence my statment be carful with plumbing tape. I would never use it in a situation like this.

Paul S.

Won't work--brake fluid will dissolve "plumbing tape", if by that you mean teflon tape. I am not sure there is an other form of plumbing tape that's going to be impervious to brake fluid and you sure don't want to introduce contamination into the brake system. I would take no chances on that score. It's too easy to pull or have the caliper pulled and re-tap the bleeder screw threads, if that's what it needs.

The first thing I would try, is removing the offending bleeder, make sure there is no dirt or debris on the threads of the caliper, clean the surface where the bleeder contacts the caliper with brakekleen, and replace with a new bleeder screw, flush the brake system, paying attention to making sure there's no fluid residue on the caliper when you're done. Bleeder screws are not expensive.

As an aside, I figure you'd have to have "GI Joe grip" (if you're old enough to remember the newer generation GI Joe dolls from the 70's) to over tighten a bleeder screw to the point of stripping and causing a leak. The 10 mm open end wrench in most toolsets is not a very long handled wrench. At least on my Craftsman set, it's fairly short. And I typically tighten mine very tight and never had an issue--I used to track my 01 Turbo and flushed brake fluid 4-5 times per year for 4 years without incident.

I'm betting a tiny piece of grit coupled by much higher caliper heat causing some expansion in the aluminum "might" cause it to seep. It would have to be very slight, otherwise you'd introduce air in the brake system. It's also possible the bleeder screw has a crack in it (although, again, that would probably cause air in the system too).

atr911

11mm

See as how it's into aluminum, you may want to use the torque spec to be sure

6 - 9 ft/lb lol

Paul S.

Get yourself a cardboard box, line it with a trash bag and put it under the caliper. The fluid will run out the open bleeder screw hole, but assuming you don't have a motive power bleeder attached which supplies 10-15 psi, the flow will be a trickle, little more than a drip, drip kind of thing. When you're bleeding/flushing, the pressure from the power bleeder or pumping the brakes is what causes the fluid to flow at the rate it does.

I had to replace a broken bleeder screw on my 67 Corvette and was surprised at how little brake fluid ran out.

I also suggest pulling the brake pads out first. You don't want to get brake fluid on them.

Clean up the caliper and rotors with brakekleen when you have the new bleeder installed--a big flat box works best because it can catch the brake fluid and the brakekleen too, so you don't make a mess all over your garage floor.

1BlinkGone

I wouldn't let this ride without attention soon. If fluid is getting out, you can bet that air can be getting in, too.

GUMBALL

Spec for a 6mm screw is 84 in-lbs and for an 8mm screw 108 in-lbs.