I've made an appointment to have a bunch of stuff done to my car and among these is brake pad and brake fluid replacement. I already have all the parts except for the brake fluid and thus this post to seek recommendations as to which should I purchase.

I should point out that being retired for a while now, it might be a stretch to say that it's a daily driver since the car is a 2009 C2 with 31K miles... and it still has the original factory fluid! What I'm trying to say is that is that I don't need nor want any super dupper, NHRA approved, racing fluid... However, since I live in the Caribbean with year round 70+ degree temperatures and very high humidity, these factors do need be considered.

Any advice or insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

I like using ATE 200, but really anything that is DOT 4 should be fine. Here's an Amazon link for the ATE.

You should really try and change the fluid every two years, though. By design brake fluid absorbs moisture/water.
Over time, that moisture not only lowers the boiling point of the fluid, it can also introduce corrosion into the brake system.

 

ATE 200 is a no brainer for your usage

 

I may have asked this before, but I've been using sl.6 because of the lower viscosity and I'm not tracking. Is ATE 200 still recommended over sl.6 for non track vehicles? I thought the better viscosity rating was better for the tiny channels, abs and pumps.

 

2009 C2S 151K miles

Read more here: https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...expensive.html

I use ATE Type 200 from Amazon. Mr Quadcammer is the man.

Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)

 

A most appreciative thanks to all for your recommendations.

One last question... Since this will a be a complete replacement of the fluid and in consideration of the bleed part, will the 1 liter can be enough??

 

Yes, barring any accidents 1 liter is plenty of fluid to do a complete flush.

 

In street driven cars you can't go wrong with the mentioned ATE 200.

1L should do it since you don't have a clutch to bleed with your PDK. It's never bad to have an extra 500mL bottle around.

If you're doing new pads you are safe to fill up to the "full line." My experience is I always go a little under the full line. For some reason I always get fluid leaking when going to the full line, but my experience is with cars that are tracked hard.

A way to ensure you won't get any spillage is to zip tie a paper towel around the cap- most of the race cars I've worked on end up having bubbling paint from the spillage in the front tub.

--Aaron

 

ATE200 is good. I actually use Motul RBF600 in my street cars for the extra protection of a higher boiling point, not because my brake use is super heavy, but if you ever have a malfunction like a sticking caliper or improperly adjusted parking brake that heats up a wheel, you won't lose half your brakes from the fluid boiling. Every 12-18 months I fill my Motive Pressure bleader with 3 or 4 bottles and hit all the cars. My wheels are an open enough design where I can just reach through the spokes to the bleeders.

The newer Castrol SRF fluid is supposed to be fantastic - less hygroscopic that regular racing fluids so needs renewing less often, but with the same higher boiling point and safety margin.

 

While great track fluid, IMO SRF is way over kill for a street car and $$$. I use Motul 660 for the track and change every six months. ATE 200 is fine. Two years is the rule of thumb, but since you are in a humid environment buy a cheap brake fluid moisture tester off of Amazon. Hope you are using an indy who works on Porsches. Unless they are brittle from heat/age, you can reuse the brake sensors. Porsche recommends replacing the brake caliper bolts for corrosion, steel in aluminum threads.

You need to review the maintenance requirements for your car, most are based on miles OR time, whichever comes first. The PDK and diff fluids should have been changed based on age.

 

Completely agree with the bolded sentence above. IMO the 2 year replacement interval is a one-size-fits-all recommendation defined by worst-case conditions, it's overkill for most. I'm in a relatively dry, mild climate and my car is garaged in a controlled environment. I don't track my car and it's not a daily driver. After 4 years I'm still at less than 1% moisture.

Not recommending everyone wait this long but pointing out that the change interval is significantly affected by environment and operating conditions.

 

PV,
Well, you've convinced me. I just ordered a brake fluid moister meter off of Amazon. For $14.00 it seems like a fun/cheap tool to have available.
I did use a Bosch low viscosity fluid in one of my cars that was supposed to be good for a 3 yrs vs. 2 yrs, so that will be the first car that I check, since
it's been about 2yrs 3 months since the last fluid change.
Thanks for giving me the kick to go ahead and make the purchase
Bill

 

Probably the same one I have. I know it works as I went and checked a 2007 car (non-Porsche) that was told is still on its original fluid from the factory. Daily driver and 150k miles. Red lights and >4%! Not good.