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Is it possible that it could be a shaving from the top part of a lifter? Can a lifter stick causing excessive contact with the cam? Are lifters ferrous metal? If you look at these photos of some lifters, the wear and texture looks really similar to what I found. https://cdn4.pelicanparts.com/techar...mall/pic13.jpg
Did you scope thru any spark plug hole first? At least if you see something pretty bad there, no need to go thru the sump end at that point-no?
I already dropped the pan and couldn’t figure out how to see anything from there, so am slowly picking away at it from the plug holes between bike rides and time with the family. Only cylinder I had full access to so far is 5 (I will need to turn the engine for 1&6 and don’t have the plugs out for the others. Just a couple small scratches and this odd little anomaly. I am not sure if this is normal wear for 60k miles?
Any good DIYs on scoping from the bottom? So far I have accomplished nothing but seeing the bottoms of pistons. It seems any cylinders that are far enough forward the bottom of the rod is in the way.
If you can get the pistons to the top wouldn't you get a decent look at the cylinder walls? If it's scoring it wouldn't just be visible at the top of the cylinders or....?
I was able to get an “ok” look from the top, I still can’t get at it from the bottom but admittedly focused on the top thinking I could narrow things down to a couple of cylinders and then look at them from the bottom if needed. Cylinders 2 & 4 had the most notable marks on them, coincidentally or perhaps not #2 is where the sound seem to come from. These are #2
Not super clear and I'm not an expert, but those 'scuffs' do not look to the point that it would result in enough clearance to create the knocking/slapping sound. Just my conjecture though.
Not super clear and I'm not an expert, but those 'scuffs' do not look to the point that it would result in enough clearance to create the knocking/slapping sound. Just my conjecture though.
Yeah I am not the greatest at getting clear shots. The one pic on 2 looked worse than the picture shows, but I agree while noticeable it wasn’t crazy. That said it is from the top, so what is below the piston remains to be seen. I would say that is the start of scoring and will only be getting worse and find it unlikely that it is coincidental that 2 looks the worst and that is where the sound is coming from. Unfortunately I am thinking it is a scored motor, that will likely be worse from the bottom because something is causing the misfire.
End result, I am in contact with Jake and heading that route, not sure I want to invest anymore time because I doubt it gets me anymore certainty in going this direction.
I don't know, the more I think about it and having re-read this thread and listened to the ticking sound again, I don't think I would jump to the scoring conclusion just yet. The fact that you have zero other symptoms of scoring (increased oil consumption, high aluminum in a UOA, sooty exhaust pipes, etc.) and it came on so suddenly after running low on gas seems odd to me. From reading dozens of other accounts of bore scoring, it seems as though ticking is one of the advanced symptoms of scoring, not the first one.
The pics you posted look basically the same as the bore scope pics I received when I got my PPI 2 1/2 years ago. My oil consumption has always been consistent (about .4L every 550-600 miles) and my UOA's have been great. My car runs like a top. I suspect most cylinders on these cars with similar miles (I just hit 60k) look like ours if scoped from the top with scuffing, but that doesn't mean that scoring is present or even immanent.
I thought that the ticking that came from scoring went away as the engine warms up and it is driven?
Do you have the misfire codes?
Did the plug you pull look fouled with oil?
Did you ever eliminate paddle slap from tired chain tensioners as a potential cause?
Were you able to isolate the ticking sound using a mechanics stethoscope to bank one or bank two, top or bottom of the engine?
Just a thought, but I would pay a few hundred dollars to take it into a reputable Porsche Indy in your area for a proper diagnosis. They can check the misfire codes, check fuel trims, camshaft deviation, and properly scope the cylinders by dropping the sump and scoping from the bottom.
Best of luck regardless of which avenue you pursue.
I don't know, the more I think about it and having re-read this thread and listened to the ticking sound again, I don't think I would jump to the scoring conclusion just yet. The fact that you have zero other symptoms of scoring (increased oil consumption, high aluminum in a UOA, sooty exhaust pipes, etc.) and it came on so suddenly after running low on gas seems odd to me. From reading dozens of other accounts of bore scoring, it seems as though ticking is one of the advanced symptoms of scoring, not the first one.
The pics you posted look basically the same as the bore scope pics I received when I got my PPI 2 1/2 years ago. My oil consumption has always been consistent (about .4L every 550-600 miles) and my UOA's have been great. My car runs like a top. I suspect most cylinders on these cars with similar miles (I just hit 60k) look like ours if scoped from the top with scuffing, but that doesn't mean that scoring is present or even immanent.
I thought that the ticking that came from scoring went away as the engine warms up and it is driven?
Do you have the misfire codes?
Did the plug you pull look fouled with oil?
Did you ever eliminate paddle slap from tired chain tensioners as a potential cause?
Were you able to isolate the ticking sound using a mechanics stethoscope to bank one or bank two, top or bottom of the engine?
Just a thought, but I would pay a few hundred dollars to take it into a reputable Porsche Indy in your area for a proper diagnosis. They can check the misfire codes, check fuel trims, camshaft deviation, and properly scope the cylinders by dropping the sump and scoping from the bottom.
Best of luck regardless of which avenue you pursue.
Thanks for the well wishes
1.) It only went away with a new oil filter and a couple of quarts new oil after having pulled the filter to check.
2.) Sound seemed to be from cylinder 2 area
3.) I did not eliminate the tensioners, but the only way to do that is to replace all of the tensioners
I am just at a tipping point. I don’t want to spend more time and $ to only end up
right at this same place. Sure the $ is a tough pill, but I can make it happen. It would be frustrating to put a lot more $ and energy and still spend the $. I am a fairly busy person with work and family so time is important to me.
I can’t seem to get to them. He says they are on Amazon prime and I have a membership but can’t find them. The one on YouTube won’t allow me to play it without being a member.
Originally Posted by Optionman1
You must be a Rennvision member at the enthusiast level to view the series. $4.99/month, worth it for all the info
The videos are not included with Amazon Prime membership. You have to rent them.
With your Rennvision YouTube membership, you get exclusive access to many more videos and online class opportunities. However, we will still offer lots of free videos to the general public too.
For example, we are doing a free ((LIVE)) Renncast this Thursday at 4pm ET and our special guest is Lee Jenkins of Hartech, UK. Should be lots of great information shared and there will be a time when you can ask questions. Don't miss it!
08-08-2021, 09:27 PM
