Help Diagnosing Ticking Sound
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Help Diagnosing Ticking Sound
Well it has been a good run, without too many issues with this car, but here I am with a dreaded bore scoring type sound. Except I am not convinced that is what it is and want to eliminate any other possibilities first. Details:
Yes I realize it could be bore scoring, but it seems odd that it would just come completely out of nowhere and be instantly bad enough to cause the car to run so poorly with no other symptoms. I also find it strange that above 2k rpms it is like the sound just vanishes.
I can’t seem to get my Durametric program working on my computer so I need to grab a friends and see if there are any codes in the background. A quick scan with my Bluetooth dongle reveled no codes pending.
At this point I am afraid to drive it more until I get this issue sorted because I don’t want to break it anymore than it already might be.
- Car has been driving awesome last UOA was great.
- Running low on gas but not super low fuel light just came on
- Noticed that at a stop the car felt like it was about to stall out on me and thought maybe my fuel gauge had lied and I was running out of fuel. Car seemed to be missing and knocking pretty bad and I barely made it to the gas station.
- Refueled and was greeted by a distinct knock/rattle upon startup. Car continued to run poorly on the 2 mile drive home.
- The sound seems to be coming from the left side of the engine and goes away when the car hits 2k rpms or more then comes back when it drops below (listen in video).
- Zero smoke, oil consumption or other indicators of bore scoring.
Yes I realize it could be bore scoring, but it seems odd that it would just come completely out of nowhere and be instantly bad enough to cause the car to run so poorly with no other symptoms. I also find it strange that above 2k rpms it is like the sound just vanishes.
I can’t seem to get my Durametric program working on my computer so I need to grab a friends and see if there are any codes in the background. A quick scan with my Bluetooth dongle reveled no codes pending.
At this point I am afraid to drive it more until I get this issue sorted because I don’t want to break it anymore than it already might be.
Last edited by bgoetz; 08-02-2021 at 10:39 PM.
#2
Nordschleife Master
Other than the ticking/knocking sound you say the car "continued to run poorly". Can you elaborate on that? What other symptoms?
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
The other odd symptom was that after doing that video on a semi cold start (the car had ran 1hr prior) the sound almost went away when I pulled back into the garage.
The only things that come to my mind are:
1. Bad coil, but why would the sound go away above 2k rpms and why would it go away when pulling back into the garage
2. Some type of oil driven tensioner failure causing chain slap and the car to pull timing due to the knock
3. Stuck lifter, would that cause the poor running?
4. Scored cylinder although if it were bad enough to have running issues I would expect to see smoke from the exhaust and would have though it would have had symptoms prior
5. Spun rod bearing, but why and why so sudden
Last edited by bgoetz; 08-03-2021 at 07:32 AM.
#4
Well it has been a good run, without too many issues with this car, but here I am with a dreaded bore scoring type sound. Except I am not convinced that is what it is and want to eliminate any other possibilities first. Details:
Yes I realize it could be bore scoring, but it seems odd that it would just come completely out of nowhere and be instantly bad enough to cause the car to run so poorly with no other symptoms. I also find it strange that above 2k rpms it is like the sound just vanishes.
I can’t seem to get my Durametric program working on my computer so I need to grab a friends and see if there are any codes in the background. A quick scan with my Bluetooth dongle reveled no codes pending.
At this point I am afraid to drive it more until I get this issue sorted because I don’t want to break it anymore than it already might be.
Video
- Car has been driving awesome last UOA was great.
- Running low on gas but not super low fuel light just came on
- Noticed that at a stop the car felt like it was about to stall out on me and thought maybe my fuel gauge had lied and I was running out of fuel. Car seemed to be missing and knocking pretty bad and I barely made it to the gas station.
- Refueled and was greeted by a distinct knock/rattle upon startup. Car continued to run poorly on the 2 mile drive home.
- The sound seems to be coming from the left side of the engine and goes away when the car hits 2k rpms or more then comes back when it drops below (listen in video).
- Zero smoke, oil consumption or other indicators of bore scoring.
Yes I realize it could be bore scoring, but it seems odd that it would just come completely out of nowhere and be instantly bad enough to cause the car to run so poorly with no other symptoms. I also find it strange that above 2k rpms it is like the sound just vanishes.
I can’t seem to get my Durametric program working on my computer so I need to grab a friends and see if there are any codes in the background. A quick scan with my Bluetooth dongle reveled no codes pending.
At this point I am afraid to drive it more until I get this issue sorted because I don’t want to break it anymore than it already might be.
Video
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8KaboveMSL (08-03-2021)
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
#6
Racer
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The fuel tank on four wheel drive has upside down "U" splitting tank in 2 and low fuel will trigger your problem if you have four wheel as fuel sloshes in low fuel 2 sides. Ask me how I know-happened and I learned to never let fuel get low.
Last edited by Hilltopper; 08-03-2021 at 11:15 AM.
#7
Rennlist Member
I really hope it’s something else…but from this untrained unknowledgeable ear it sounds just like the bore score sound. Might be worth while to get scoped just to be sure. How many miles and curious to see what your last UOA looks like if you don’t mind sharing…how were your tailpipes? Odd that u didn’t have any other symptoms like oil consumption or smoke etc…
***edit re watched video and saw you were @ 60431miles.
***edit re watched video and saw you were @ 60431miles.
Last edited by Scalp_em; 08-03-2021 at 11:17 AM.
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#8
This does not appear to have the characteristics of bore score. That's more of a dull knock and the OPs UOA was good - and it would not be if scoring was occurring. I'm optimistic it's something else, and it happened 'suddenly' - again, not a symptom of bore score.
OP - did you cut open your last filter and check for debris? Doubtful you would find any if the UOA is good.
I would dive deeper into diagnostics before panicking. Good luck!
OP - did you cut open your last filter and check for debris? Doubtful you would find any if the UOA is good.
I would dive deeper into diagnostics before panicking. Good luck!
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I really hope it’s something else…but from this untrained unknowledgeable ear it sounds just like the bore score sound. Might be worth while to get scoped just to be sure. How many miles and curious to see what your last UOA looks like if you don’t mind sharing…how were your tailpipes? Odd that u didn’t have any other symptoms like oil consumption or smoke etc…
***edit re watched video and saw you were @ 60431miles.
***edit re watched video and saw you were @ 60431miles.
I would agree it does not sound good, although the sudden onset and zero prior symptoms makes me hesitant. UOA was perfect no issues. There had been some silicone that had dropped considerably over the past few changes, but I think that was due to having the IMS done and a bit of fresh sealant as it started immediately after. The silicone while notable wasn’t real high, especially this last time (9ppm I think). The cylinders were scoped at 45k when I had the IMS done and came back good. There are zero other symptoms like sooty tail pipe.
#10
Rennlist Member
I would agree it does not sound good, although the sudden onset and zero prior symptoms makes me hesitant. UOA was perfect no issues. There had been some silicone that had dropped considerably over the past few changes, but I think that was due to having the IMS done and a bit of fresh sealant as it started immediately after. The silicone while notable wasn’t real high, especially this last time (9ppm I think). The cylinders were scoped at 45k when I had the IMS done and came back good. There are zero other symptoms like sooty tail pipe.
Last edited by Scalp_em; 08-03-2021 at 12:01 PM.
#11
Well, a $15 mechanics stethoscope like they sell at Harbor Freight or Walmart will not work as you learned. You need to use a Steelman Electronic Ear which is why it was specified. It will allow you to isolate the sound to a specific pump, pulley or a particular cylinder. A cheap stethoscope will not. Ask me how I know. Best wishes.
#12
Three Wheelin'
Doesn’t sound like bore score to me. Hard to tell what it is, it’s not good but not bore score IMO.
#13
Rennlist Member
Put your phone on the ground under both banks and record the car at idle. Hard to hear on the video you posted.
#14
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
2009 C2S 174K miles
Some items that may help:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ing-noise.html
In one of Jake's videos, he isolates the tick using a stethoscope. From underneath, he probes each cylinder. It was clear. I suspect you are not putting the stethoscope in the right places. I don't know which video it was.... you can go fishing on his YouTube channel.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)
Some items that may help:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...ing-noise.html
In one of Jake's videos, he isolates the tick using a stethoscope. From underneath, he probes each cylinder. It was clear. I suspect you are not putting the stethoscope in the right places. I don't know which video it was.... you can go fishing on his YouTube channel.
Peace
Bruce in Philly (now Atlanta)