Spellbindehr

I'm using a brass punch, and hitting the inner ring of the bearings where it meets the shafts. I've hammered slowly first, then harder past the point where I feel comfortable. The bottom one specially just won't budge. They'll slide in quite a ways, and the case is very close to closing around the perimeter. But it's the last mm that go past the slots where the snap rings go that won't slide. I feel if I hammer any harder, something is gonna break internally.

PV997

Hi David - Just to be clear, is the case not fully closing or is there float in the shaft so it's moving inward? You can check the case by seeing if the bolt hole on the side (bolt shown in the original post photos) is lining up. I suspect the shaft is just slightly larger around the circlip groove and the bearing is hanging up.

One thing to consider is that the bearings are standard sizes and are replaceable with the case removed. Amet lists the sizes over in the PDK repair thread comments (around #500) and we googled the PN's and found some references. So even if the bearing does get damaged it's not the end of the world. As far as I know no one has replaced them yet but all of this stuff is a first and that's how we've gotten this far.

Assuming the shaft isn't moving, you may have to rig up something to punch (or press) the bearing back on. Have you tried a tube just larger than the shaft to press uniformly on the bearing inner race? Uniform pressure around the entire circumference and a good wrap with a mallet might get it to budge. I'd mark the bearing position with a piece of tape (or something) so you can see if it moves at all then alternate back and forth between the two shafts. There's probably also a way to rig up a press that pushes on the bearing and pulls on the shaft using the shaft threads. Good luck and please let us know how it goes and post a photo if you come up with tooling that works.

Edit: Also, thanks for taking on this work. It's great to see that more and more shops are willing to give try this a try and giving owners options.

Fullyield

PV 997 and other contributors: If RL gave an award for continuous threads that have been the most helpful to the entire community, I would nominate you and this thread immediately! Thank you.

Spellbindehr

Thank you very much for your reply. It appeared to me initially that the bottom shaft is floating a little and not allowing that last bit of travel. When I pulled the case the second time, I pushed/pulled on the shaft just with my hand, and indeed there is enough in/out play to take away that last bit I need. The bolt that goes on the side looks like it is lined up, but when I tried to thread it, it does not easily thread in. Indicating the case needs to be driven in more?

I see the internal thread to the shafts, and I'm working on devising a way to grab it and use it to push the bearings in. I'm thinking threaded plumbing pipe? Idk, we'll see.

And I will definitely check back in with my solution. Thank you again for your time.

-David

Wayne Smith

This, over and over and over again!!!

Spellbindehr

Found what was preventing me from closing the case properly. The bottom shaft has a spacer that is the stop for the bottom bearing once it's driven all the way into the shaft. This spacer fits the circumference of the area of the gear that this bottom bearing faces, and serves as the stop between the gear and the bearing. BUT the spacer is a larger circumference than the area of the shaft where the bearing sweats onto. SO, hammering the bearing onto the shaft, caused this spacer to slide out of its home, and prevent the bearing from reaching the stop of the shaft. Solution: I used red assembly grease which is really tacky, to keep the spacer in place as I hammered on the bearing. Both bearings now slid in all the way first try, and the slots for the snap rings are now exposed properly, so I can install them correctly.

One more thing I did just as a precaution was that I removed the oil cooler and pump assembly. In my previous attempts I had the cooler/pump assembly installed because I figured that the square on the pump shaft should slide in without any issues. This time around I removed it completely just in case the square on the pump shaft was also preventing me from closing the case properly.

Thank you PV997 for your input. And thank you for making your experience and knowledge available to us on this forum.

-David M.

PV997

Great news and thanks for letting us know. Please follow up with a report on how the replacement distance sensor works and if there are any issues with the calibration.

jbolduc27

There are photos of the tool in this forum. The main thing is to have a stiff tool that does not bend when screwing the bolts. 1/2" thick steel plate did the job for us.

I did go to Michelin Raceway Road Atlanta in mid-September and the PDK transmission with t-design9.com's PDK position sensor worked very well under stressful conditions. I drove around the track at high speed for 5 hours over two days. I was in Sports Plus mode and manually shifted at around 6800 RPM instead of letting it go to redline (~7400 RPM) and the transmission worked smoothly. I am relieved and pleased that the transmission was repaired and we did not have to replace it.

unclemat

Somebody should start making and selling that tool.

Kuro Neko

Perhaps, but shops willing to attempt the work have the materials and competencies available off the shelf.
Bundled with a position sensor, fixings, and similar though might make good sense...

CeesiB

Hi David, which shop are you in..Burbank CA..? I need a good mechanic to change my sensors for my 2013 Porsche Panamera. please share if you don’t mind. You can email me details too. Ceesibee@Gmail.com

teevirdi

Just replaced one of these sensor on a 981. Got a T design one followed all the good guides on here. Made a tool to pull the casing off too. Thanks for all the help guys. That's one problem PDK out my workshop

PV997

Good news. So how did you solve the hydraulic teach-in error during calibration? Was it air in the system, a corrupt TCU, or something else?

teevirdi

Still working on that one. That ones a 991. Tried bleeding with genuine PIWIS but still fails on the same place. Looking at getting a second hand box but can not find the same code one. Don't suppose any one knows the differences in gear box codes ? The one i need is a CG350. Can get a CG300 and CG400 but not sure if they will work in my car.

engrpe34

Did anyone figure out a replacement for the 30TM07U2 bearing? Apparently I need one of those as my shop is doing the T9 sensor replacement. Not sure how the bearing got compromised in the process, but that's the last piece to getting my car back. Thanks!