CAVU

Here is very good video by a pro. Your situation is different but there are some really good techniques and reasoning behind them. Certainly some considerations about not using high heat on an aluminum head, etc

jimwood

Good videos. The one on loosening all the header bolts before taking them out, as opposed to removing one at time was good info.

wndsnd

All good sugggestions. This is where I am at today. I only have worked on the right side and had 2 break about 1/4 " from the flange so 2 out of six. I agree that I think heat is my best friend and I have been using a propane torch, but it doesnt seem to help at all. Either I am not heating long enough, or I need something hotter like an acetelyne mix. I did try slightly grinding with a dremmel both sides for my heaviest vice grips, but I did not get any movement at all. I ordered The Stomski 997 kit, it was $356 dollars so I hope I can resell to someone else to take the bite out, but 356 seemed like a good Porsche omen to me!

Now I have 1/4" stubs. With Stomski you cut the bolt as flush as you can with the flange because you are drilling them out with their jig to guide. This is a great product with one caveat. Drilling is so slow! I am going to the industrial hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find better hardened bits, but drilling is not my favored way. So before I cut those stubs off, I am trying to work with them still. I got a pair a bigger vice grips that will give me more leverage, and I have some oxy acetelyne tanks in my shop that I have to dust off and see if I can get more heat there. My big hope is that I will learn a technique that works for me, before I try the left side. I have all my new toy stuff coming tomorrow, so I need to make some progress. Of course I will share all I learn and the mistakes I make with my friends!

I am in my sixties, and do not have great strength any more so working over my head is not easy for me. But if I find something that works for me, it should work for you guys!

415CPA

I feel your pain man. I had to go through the same problem recently when I upgraded my headers. Luckily I only had 1 bolt snap. I also tried a vise and a screw extractor without any luck. Ended up having to drill and tap to a slightly larger sized bolt. Good luck man!

TheTorch

Repeated heating over a number of days can break down the rust bond. Agree with others that turning in the tightening direction as well as loosening can sometimes break it loose.

wndsnd

Thanks, I just tried a map oxy setup I had in the shop, I stopped though becuase the flame throw was too long and it was lapping up to spots I could not see or trust. I tried PB blaster while it was hot and it sizzled and then the vice grips, but the problem is if I get the grips tight enough, it seems like they are too short and I don't get enough leverage on them. I am taking a short break to get my thoughts together, but it is leaning more and more to a flush cut off and a drill out.

I am going to get really pissed when all that expensive bling gets here tomorrow and I am not able to get the bits installed.

TheTorch

Before you grind them down, you could cut a slot in them and try a hand impact driver and a hammer. I would for sure also just give the bolts some good raps with a hammer.

wndsnd

That is a good idea, I will try that and let you know. I love all the video's show some guy with a manifold with stuck bolts on a bench. I wish! Thankfully I have a MAxJax but working over my head sucks.

wndsnd

Jim I tried all this and I am a patient man, but so far no go. And, I know dentists and doctors make great mechanics, they just dont like getting their hands dirty. If you can figure out how to work on a body, they would make a killing wrenching on cars!

Petza914

Freezing it can also make it contract to break the rust bond

TheTorch

Good call -- heat and freeze cycle might work. Try CRC Freeze Off or Loctite LB 8040 or similar.

Saaboteur

@wndsnd I have had a prayer circle going on for you ever since I saw this thread.

I debated doing this job myself a couple years ago when installing my FVD headers. Eventually decided to let a local shop do the job, because I feared breaking the bolts myself. When I went to pick the car up, I asked if they had any issues removing the old bolts - “nope, no problems!” Damnit, could have saved myself a few hundred dollars, but what can you do? I hope you are going to replace with stainless studs and copper nuts? I sourced both of those from 034 Motorsports.

wndsnd

Thanks I am praying to complete the job myself! I did get the SS Studs and Copper Flange nuts from Belmetrics, which is my local source. I have a couple of tricks to try today after work.

Thank you for your support.

John

wndsnd

I ended up drilling out with the Stomski kit. You cut the bolt off as close to the flange as you can. You install the jig they provide, and then you use the drill bits, it is a two step process. Remove the jig and then tap out the remaining threads from the bolt. I went slow and using brake cleaner to clean, then lobricant to cut with the tap, as did the process every 4 mm or so. I cant say enough good about this Stomski kit. Anyone with a problem like mine, and this can save you. So I have one bolt done and one more to do in morning, then right side is completed. I will be extra carefull with left side next. But I am prepared if I have a problem. The Headers from Agency Power came today and I have to say they look nice. They are a few mm more in id than the stock, but the radius bends are beautifull, the weld are great, and all in all they look to be a good product. I expecially am pleased with the flange thicknesses which are really robust. These flanges should never warp.

CAVU

Glad this is headed in a positive direction!!!

A Stomski Kit DIY with lots of pics and tips would be very much appreciated!