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I was careful as hell but alas, I broke the two oposite end bolts. The good news is that they are both accessable the bad new is they are short.
What is the best way to extract or should I drill out and do timeserts. I am comfortable with either but I have never done timeserts over my head before. Only on the stand. I would prefer to extract.
The problem is getting anything on them to take a grip because they are so rusted. I have a drive on set that you smash onto and then wrench out, and I have a Headbolt extractor,that screws down and doesnt damage the stuc, but the bolt is so rusted nothing will screw on. I am thinking of grinding down and then drilling and using a point extractor. Any suggestions that will hopefully leave the head intact?
Before drilling anything I would try to remove them. You have a pretty good amount of bolt left to work with.
I would start by hitting them with some heat even a small butane torch is better than nothing. You don't need to get it red hot to take advantage of heat. I would then grab it with as big of vise grips as you can get on there clamped hard as you possibly can and slowly try to turn them out.
If you have access to a welder you can weld a nut on there and use that to extract.
jlove's suggestions are exactly what I was going to write. If they were stuck in there that hard, I'd skip the drill and try to use a screw extractor. In my experience that just puts another broken piece of metal into the center of the stuck screw that you're trying to drill out.
Now of you can drill all the way through the remaining bolt (measure one that came out complete, the broken portion that came off the one that's stuck, what's left protruding, and wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit you're using so you don't go too far. The goal would be to make the biggest hole in the center that you can without touching the treads in the head. Once you're all the way through the bolt, stick the straw from some Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating oil and spray it up into the hole so it can get above the screw and work its way down between the threads of the stuck bolt and the head. After you've treated it a couple times and let it work for a day, you can try the screw extractor.
When I got my oem headers off, I replaced the bolts with stainless steel with a lock washer and flat washer and used anti-seize on them. I've had them off a few times since for various reasons and the bolts come right out each time now.
Before drilling anything I would try to remove them. You have a pretty good amount of bolt left to work with.
I would start by hitting them with some heat even a small butane torch is better than nothing. You don't need to get it red hot to take advantage of heat. I would then grab it with as big of vise grips as you can get on there clamped hard as you possibly can and slowly try to turn them out.
If you have access to a welder you can weld a nut on there and use that to extract.
Thanks Jlove, I tried the heat and PB Blaster. I soaked good last night, and today I heated up with a propane torch and blasted it again hoping some of the majic goop would seep in more. Then I did the vice grip deal and they just rounded off the threads that are severly rusted.
Stoppin now before I break whats left of the bolt off. Time for another plan!
jlove's suggestions are exactly what I was going to write. If they were stuck in there that hard, I'd skip the drill and try to use a screw extractor. In my experience that just puts another broken piece of metal into the center of the stuck screw that you're trying to drill out.
Now of you can drill all the way through the remaining bolt (measure one that came out complete, the broken portion that came off the one that's stuck, what's left protruding, and wrap a piece of tape around the drill bit you're using so you don't go too far. The goal would be to make the biggest hole in the center that you can without touching the treads in the head. Once you're all the way through the bolt, stick the straw from some Liquid Wrench or your favorite penetrating oil and spray it up into the hole so it can get above the screw and work its way down between the threads of the stuck bolt and the head. After you've treated it a couple times and let it work for a day, you can try the screw extractor.
When I got my oem headers off, I replaced the bolts with stainless steel with a lock washer and flat washer and used anti-seize on them. I've had them off a few times since for various reasons and the bolts come right out each time now.
Petza, Just sold my 914, sight unseen guy wired funds and sent a truck, it went to CA.
I miss her dearly!
Now onto my broken bolts. I keep forgetting about Stromski, I have some of his tools that I bought when I built the 2.7 engine. He has a great extractor set for the 997 but it is expensive. Anyone have one for rent or sale? I don't want to drill without a jig. My hands are not that steady!
Petza, Just sold my 914, sight unseen guy wired funds and sent a truck, it went to CA.
I miss her dearly!
Now onto my broken bolts. I keep forgetting about Stromski, I have some of his tools that I bought when I built the 2.7 engine. He has a great extractor set for the 997 but it is expensive. Anyone have one for rent or sale? I don't want to drill without a jig. My hands are not that steady!
That was a great looking 914. Being a 6, bet it went for a pretty penny! The red-headed stepchild of the Porsche lineup has picked up quite a bit in value over the past few years. Just added another $5k to my AV policy on mine last year.
Welded nut did not work I could not get a good strong weld to that rusted and PB soaked stud. I have the Stonski kit on order and will drill out. If I f it up, I will just have to drill out and timecert.
Wow. I thought for sure putting a similar sized nut there and welding the center would have been an easy out for you...
Originally Posted by wndsnd
Welded nut did not work I could not get a good strong weld to that rusted and PB soaked stud. I have the Stonski kit on order and will drill out. If I f it up, I will just have to drill out and timecert.
The critical step using a screw extractor is getting a clean hole in the middle of the broken bolt. A trick is to use self-centering drill guides like those used for hinges. They have spring loaded drills inside the guides. Replace the drill with a left handed drill for good measure.
Find a tube or hollow rod that is the same diameter as the broken bolt. Buy a self-centering drill guide that also has this outside diameter. Insert the drill guide into the rod and you should be able to drill a clean hole in the broken bolt. The left-handed drill may even remove the bolt. If not, you can then use a bolt extractor in the clean hole.
Get your best-oversized vice grips - the real ones not the ones fancy ones with all the dohickeys to make life easier - old screw base type. Clamp down very hard, and then try to turn very slowly. The approach angle is important. So you want to clamp on with the vice grips verticle or perpendicular to the stud. Do not grip it from the side or you will spin and the torque is applied improperly. vice grips straight up and down the bolt. Go slow and clean the bolt so there is zero grease and its dry (this should be common sense)
Get your best-oversized vice grips - the real ones not the ones fancy ones with all the dohickeys to make life easier - old screw base type. Clamp down very hard, and then try to turn very slowly. The approach angle is important. So you want to clamp on with the vice grips verticle or perpendicular to the stud. Do not grip it from the side or you will spin and the torque is applied improperly. vice grips straight up and down the bolt. Go slow and clean the bolt so there is zero grease and its dry (this should be common sense)
Before you try the vice grip method. take a dremel and grind the sides of the bolt flat so you have more surface for the vice grips to purchase on the broken bolt.
The point he makes and that I support, and have used even with stubs/broken-bolts, is to work it one direction and then the opposite direction. Tiny amounts. Patience.
Before you try the vice grip method. take a dremel and grind the sides of the bolt flat so you have more surface for the vice grips to purchase on the broken bolt.
I wouldn't do this because you're removing the material which only weakens the bolt you are torquing down on. I learned that from a dentist.
Plus, one needs to clamp those vice grips so hard around the stud that it won't matter. Go slow, and apply rotational pressure using your hands as close to the bolt as possible, to remove the flex from the vice grip.
02-14-2021, 07:12 PM
Header Upgrade Right Removed However .......
I don't want to drill without a jig. My hands are not that steady!
