Header Upgrade Right Removed However .......
#16
Rennlist Member
Last edited by CAVU; 02-18-2021 at 01:25 PM.
#17
Rennlist Member
Here is very good video by a pro. Your situation is different but there are some really good techniques and reasoning behind them. Certainly some considerations about not using high heat on an aluminum head, etc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb2D_x9QsUA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gb2D_x9QsUA
Good videos. The one on loosening all the header bolts before taking them out, as opposed to removing one at time was good info.
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
All good sugggestions. This is where I am at today. I only have worked on the right side and had 2 break about 1/4 " from the flange so 2 out of six. I agree that I think heat is my best friend and I have been using a propane torch, but it doesnt seem to help at all. Either I am not heating long enough, or I need something hotter like an acetelyne mix. I did try slightly grinding with a dremmel both sides for my heaviest vice grips, but I did not get any movement at all. I ordered The Stomski 997 kit, it was $356 dollars so I hope I can resell to someone else to take the bite out, but 356 seemed like a good Porsche omen to me!
Now I have 1/4" stubs. With Stomski you cut the bolt as flush as you can with the flange because you are drilling them out with their jig to guide. This is a great product with one caveat. Drilling is so slow! I am going to the industrial hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find better hardened bits, but drilling is not my favored way. So before I cut those stubs off, I am trying to work with them still. I got a pair a bigger vice grips that will give me more leverage, and I have some oxy acetelyne tanks in my shop that I have to dust off and see if I can get more heat there. My big hope is that I will learn a technique that works for me, before I try the left side. I have all my new toy stuff coming tomorrow, so I need to make some progress. Of course I will share all I learn and the mistakes I make with my friends!
I am in my sixties, and do not have great strength any more so working over my head is not easy for me. But if I find something that works for me, it should work for you guys!
Now I have 1/4" stubs. With Stomski you cut the bolt as flush as you can with the flange because you are drilling them out with their jig to guide. This is a great product with one caveat. Drilling is so slow! I am going to the industrial hardware store tomorrow to see if I can find better hardened bits, but drilling is not my favored way. So before I cut those stubs off, I am trying to work with them still. I got a pair a bigger vice grips that will give me more leverage, and I have some oxy acetelyne tanks in my shop that I have to dust off and see if I can get more heat there. My big hope is that I will learn a technique that works for me, before I try the left side. I have all my new toy stuff coming tomorrow, so I need to make some progress. Of course I will share all I learn and the mistakes I make with my friends!
I am in my sixties, and do not have great strength any more so working over my head is not easy for me. But if I find something that works for me, it should work for you guys!
#19
I feel your pain man. I had to go through the same problem recently when I upgraded my headers. Luckily I only had 1 bolt snap. I also tried a vise and a screw extractor without any luck. Ended up having to drill and tap to a slightly larger sized bolt. Good luck man!
#20
Burning Brakes
Repeated heating over a number of days can break down the rust bond. Agree with others that turning in the tightening direction as well as loosening can sometimes break it loose.
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
I am going to get really pissed when all that expensive bling gets here tomorrow and I am not able to get the bits installed.
Last edited by wndsnd; 02-18-2021 at 07:19 PM.
#22
Burning Brakes
Before you grind them down, you could cut a slot in them and try a hand impact driver and a hammer. I would for sure also just give the bolts some good raps with a hammer.
#23
Instructor
Thread Starter
That is a good idea, I will try that and let you know. I love all the video's show some guy with a manifold with stuck bolts on a bench. I wish! Thankfully I have a MAxJax but working over my head sucks.
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TheTorch (02-18-2021)
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
I wouldn't do this because you're removing the material which only weakens the bolt you are torquing down on. I learned that from a dentist.
Plus, one needs to clamp those vice grips so hard around the stud that it won't matter. Go slow, and apply rotational pressure using your hands as close to the bolt as possible, to remove the flex from the vice grip.
Plus, one needs to clamp those vice grips so hard around the stud that it won't matter. Go slow, and apply rotational pressure using your hands as close to the bolt as possible, to remove the flex from the vice grip.
#25
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Freezing it can also make it contract to break the rust bond
#26
Burning Brakes
#27
Burning Brakes
@wndsnd I have had a prayer circle going on for you ever since I saw this thread.
I debated doing this job myself a couple years ago when installing my FVD headers. Eventually decided to let a local shop do the job, because I feared breaking the bolts myself. When I went to pick the car up, I asked if they had any issues removing the old bolts - “nope, no problems!” Damnit, could have saved myself a few hundred dollars, but what can you do? I hope you are going to replace with stainless studs and copper nuts? I sourced both of those from 034 Motorsports.
I debated doing this job myself a couple years ago when installing my FVD headers. Eventually decided to let a local shop do the job, because I feared breaking the bolts myself. When I went to pick the car up, I asked if they had any issues removing the old bolts - “nope, no problems!” Damnit, could have saved myself a few hundred dollars, but what can you do? I hope you are going to replace with stainless studs and copper nuts? I sourced both of those from 034 Motorsports.
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
@wndsnd I have had a prayer circle going on for you ever since I saw this thread.
I debated doing this job myself a couple years ago when installing my FVD headers. Eventually decided to let a local shop do the job, because I feared breaking the bolts myself. When I went to pick the car up, I asked if they had any issues removing the old bolts - “nope, no problems!” Damnit, could have saved myself a few hundred dollars, but what can you do? I hope you are going to replace with stainless studs and copper nuts? I sourced both of those from 034 Motorsports.
I debated doing this job myself a couple years ago when installing my FVD headers. Eventually decided to let a local shop do the job, because I feared breaking the bolts myself. When I went to pick the car up, I asked if they had any issues removing the old bolts - “nope, no problems!” Damnit, could have saved myself a few hundred dollars, but what can you do? I hope you are going to replace with stainless studs and copper nuts? I sourced both of those from 034 Motorsports.
Thanks I am praying to complete the job myself! I did get the SS Studs and Copper Flange nuts from Belmetrics, which is my local source. I have a couple of tricks to try today after work.
Thank you for your support.
John
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Saaboteur (02-19-2021)
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
I ended up drilling out with the Stomski kit. You cut the bolt off as close to the flange as you can. You install the jig they provide, and then you use the drill bits, it is a two step process. Remove the jig and then tap out the remaining threads from the bolt. I went slow and using brake cleaner to clean, then lobricant to cut with the tap, as did the process every 4 mm or so. I cant say enough good about this Stomski kit. Anyone with a problem like mine, and this can save you. So I have one bolt done and one more to do in morning, then right side is completed. I will be extra carefull with left side next. But I am prepared if I have a problem. The Headers from Agency Power came today and I have to say they look nice. They are a few mm more in id than the stock, but the radius bends are beautifull, the weld are great, and all in all they look to be a good product. I expecially am pleased with the flange thicknesses which are really robust. These flanges should never warp.
#30
Rennlist Member
I ended up drilling out with the Stomski kit. You cut the bolt off as close to the flange as you can. You install the jig they provide, and then you use the drill bits, it is a two step process. Remove the jig and then tap out the remaining threads from the bolt. I went slow and using brake cleaner to clean, then lobricant to cut with the tap, as did the process every 4 mm or so. I cant say enough good about this Stomski kit.
A Stomski Kit DIY with lots of pics and tips would be very much appreciated!