qikqbn

My car also took over 200 miles to ready itself, but I think I was doing mostly highway miles, so it took awhile to go through all the cycles. City driving is probably best to get all those check boxes done.

If you paid DMV online, then I hope you got a copy of your paid fees, and just carry that around with you to show proof of payment. I would not worry and if for some obscure reason you get pulled over, I think cops will understand if you show them that and explain you are putting miles on the car. Take it to the smog shop after another 100 miles of "city" driving. Don't sweat it, you will be ok.

dblam65

Thank you very much for your kind words. This issue is like a dark cloud over my head. I hope it goes a away soon.

southbay

Wow that sucks. There are other threads so you’re not alone with this issue happening. Have you contacted the dealer to see if they can force it via PIWIS?

Revising the drive cycle steps, so hopefully it works.

Drive Cycle Steps:

Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs
Accelerate to 55 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins
Decelerate and come to a stop. Do not shift or touch the brake/clutch. The vehicle must gradually coast down to 20mph prior to shifting/braking.
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins (manual trans)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins (auto trans)

NOTES:
Fuel level needs to be about 1/2-3/4 full.
Do not exceed 3000 RPM or 60 MPH
Do not make large fluctuations in throttle

TV911

You don't need to drive at all for the secondary air monitor to reset. The Drive Cycle is what is needed for all monitors to reset, but each drive cycle monitor has its own criteria. The secondary air monitor criteria was posted above by rtl5009. So if it's only the secondary air monitor that is not ready, don't bother driving. Just make sure you have no faults, then do a cold start and idle for 10 minutes. If it doesn't reset after that, one of the fault conditions at the bottom of that document is probably the cause.

southbay

Got it. Not sure if the OP tried that.
Per what I’ve read, you need to do the whole cycle even to set one monitor but of course this info could be incorrect.
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-questi...tors-Not-Ready

dblam65

I have tried many Drive Cycle I found in this forum and many other websites. Every time I did a Drive Cycle I got so nervous because doing steady 55 MPH on Freeway in CA is almost impossible, plus I do not want to attract CHP attention. So currently I am stressed, frustrated, dumb found..... I am thinking of contact The Referee station/dept and ask them for options...... Today I plan to do many cold start for 10 minutes, at different times of course. I am well aware of ambient temperature and engine temperature and gas level between 1/4 and 3/4 tank. I have never experience such a stupid situation like this in all my years of motoring.
I called Porsche in Ontario, CA. The guy told me he can not answer my question since they need to see the car, and charge one hour labor for diagnostic........ he said no promise if they can do anything. I asked if Porsche can push the software to make Secondary Air Monitor READY, he said bring the car in for diagnostic first.... Anyway, I know the Stealer tactic.....$$$$$$$. No way I will bring to Porsche Stealer.
Thanks to all had replied to my post. I am praying one day I will pass the Smog Test.

AxelR

Just my 2 cents but if it stresses you out this much, the dealer/indy is your best option.
In the Bay Area, independents and dealerships are roughly charging the same.
You’ve been going through this for a while now, what’s the point to keep wasting time and stressing about it?
After all your attempts, you might simply have another issue with the car...

about2throwup

Thanks for info. I'm in LA with same issue... 2007 997s... Which dealer did you use?

Mlevit13

Woodland Hills but I’m sure any dealer would be able to do this.

groovzilla

Sorry to hear about your emissions story
I miss the days I would take my 911sc to indy mechanic and have him dial the fuel mixture down before emissions test - Pass test then have him dial it back up.
Such a PITA dealing with emissions.
My 1995 993 was OB1 which tested from exhaust pipe and would pass even though it had clogged heads(CEL light) from their carbon issues requiring head rebuild. Unfortunately the 1996-1998 993 had OB11 and wouldn't pass when the heads finally got clogged which they all eventually do.
I tried everything getting my 1996 993 C4 to pass - Finally some guy on RL made a small electronic device that connected under the seat and allowed the 993 OB11 cars to pass. Genious guy saving the day.
If anyone has time search the 993 Forum for the many posts years ago regarding cleaning the head air passages. Some guy used Bass Guitar strings and drill to clear them out but think someone broke a string and was fvcked.

Wahington State did away with Emissions Testing altogether which is about the only positive thing the state has going for it.
Also amazing since this state is made up of so many mentally ill tree huggers.

jamesinger

IDK if this is helpful but any time I smog any car, I drive it (typically) from my house in Pasadena to work in Woodland Hills (± 20 miles). I leave work early and drive back to my smog guy in Pasadena who I chose only because he is in my neighborhood. There is no way to just drive at some random speed in LA consistently. I do not even think about this. After the 20 mile or so drive, I pull up and leave the car on. The Smog guy actually tells you to do this if he can get to you fast enough. This has worked with an 06 Civic, an 04 EVO, a 12 Audi, and an 06 C2S. If that didn't work, I would go straight to my indie because I am super sick of dealing with SMOG as I have mentioned in previous threads.

PV997

If you have not run the drive cycle yet you really need to give it a try as it works more often than not in my experience. As dblam65 noted, it's not something most 911 drivers would normally do as it involves driving at slower speeds for sustained durations. I usually get up on a Sunday morning and drive it in an industrial area as they are deserted and you don't impede traffic.

The main problem is that if it still shows "not ready" after the drive cycle you don't know if the test wasn't triggered (didn't run) or if it did run and failed. Anyone with a PIWIS can force the test to run so at least it will be clear if it's actually failing or not. Worst case you can take it to a dealer and they can force it to run. If it still shows not ready then something is probably broken.

ljmartyre

I know your frustrations because this same thing happened to me on my GT3.
The only place I was able to remedy it was the dealer - and I generally try and stay away from their service departments.
If a code is cleared at some point by your typical scanner or a battery is not properly coded when replaced it can affect this.
I put several hundred miles on my car and multiple different drive cycles.

Took it to the dealer, was out in 30 min. Drove to the smog and there was 0 issues. Good luck.

speedracerf4i

I had the same issue with my old BMW 3 series not passing emission and I had the cycle problems before too. Since you take your car to Ontario BMW, then this guy is only 15 miles away: http://www.ezsmogchino.com/ I forgot who I talked to, but they maybe able to help.
FYI, I failed the NOx in the first test before they took over. They said that they cleaned a bunch of stuff for around $350 and my car passed. They do the repair and the smog check all in house and I am happy that I can drive my car for another 2 years.