dblam65

I was due for California Registration Renewal. Required a Smog Test. Replaced my battery in July 2020. Put on about 200 miles since then. My 997 S lost data when replaced battery. Been driving more the last 5 days including several "Drive Cycle". Still have Secondary Air System NOT READY. Looking for advices or tricks to make Secondary Air System READY. This is the only factor my Smog Check/Test did not pass.

Thanks.

TV911

Do you have an OBD scanner? This will tell you if you have any faults, and if your drive cycle monitors are ready or not. Faults must be cleared before the drive cycle monitors will clear. The Secondary Air System is one of the more difficult drive cycle monitors to reset. Keep in mind that a cycle needs to start with a cold engine, as the secondary air system does its work when you first start your engine, and it shuts off when the exhaust is hot enough to enable the catalytic converters to work properly without secondary air. So once you go through the whole drive cycle procedure, if this monitor didn't reset you need to shut the car off, let it cool down completely, and then check it again hours later.

rtl5009

Theses are the qualifying conditions to get a test to run. It actually does the test at idle with all of those other conditions qualified.

dblam65

After many trips to the Smog Test station, they keep telling me Secondary Air System Not Ready and keep telling "drive more", I bought an OBDC scanner so I can check by myself at home...... I know cold start up is when it checks for Secondary Air System. I did this early morning when it is 55 F outside and at night when it is cold outside. I did idle for 3 minutes. I did 2800 RPM for 90 seconds. I did 2800 RPM for 10 minutes. I did idle for 4 minutes.... Tried so many different methods I found on the Web. No success yet.

TV911

According to the document above, the secondary air check won't happen until after 590 seconds have passed. So you need a cold start and > 10 minutes of idle.

rtl5009

Cold start is not when the test occurs on these cars. Yes the pump runs at cold start but its not when the ECU qualifies the readiness check. The conditions near the red star all need to be met and the test will run, which is at idle. Its as simple as getting all those conditions at the same time.

Intake air temp needs to be between 41 and 140 degrees F
engine start temp needed to be below 107 degrees F
engine temp needs to be between 41 and 215 F
EGT's have to be less than 1200 F
O2 Sensors have to be passed
Car has to be running for 10 mins
car cant have any codes

AND

the car has to be at idle long enough to run the test (a few seconds maybe 10 sec).

I actually had the SAI EGR valve (not really a egr on our cars but close enough to describe) go bad on my car and when the light would come on (after the test ran) would generally be right after pulling out at a stop sign or redlight after the car was up to temp.

qikqbn

This has happened to me a couple times. A battery needed replacing near a smog check date. Luckily my smog guy was cool enough to just plug in his tool and let me know how much more driving I needed to do. Was easy to rack up miles when commuting, but now that I am working from home I have to make an effort to put on a lot of miles.

One thing you can do is, go ahead and pay the dmv bill on time so you are not penalized financially for being late. Then just be patient and get the smog certificate done over the next couple weeks. At least you will pay your fees on time and the sticker will come a few weeks late. No big deal, cops are not going to pull you over for being 1 month late on a sticker.

southbay

Did you follow the drive cycle steps exactly, beginning with a cold engine?

Drive Cycle Steps:

Start engine, let idle for approx. 2 min, 10 secs
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins
Decelerate and come to a stop
Idle in Neutral for 5 mins (manual trans)
Idle in Drive for 5 mins (auto trans)
During the drive cycle, do not exceed 3,000 rpm or 60 mph

DesmoSD

Where in CA are you located? As Bill mentioned, pay the registration fee to lock in your fees. I got mine last Oct and it was $500. I'd suggest going for a nice long sprinted drive before you bring it to the smog station. Make sure you do an Italian tune up and those secondary air pumps will definitely be ready by then. When I lived in NorCal, Lake Berryessa-Knoxville-Clear Lake-Angwin-Hwy 28 were amazing.

BucketList

I would look at a potential component failure. It can't be that hard. I have a .2 but when I got it tested I drove it 5 miles to warm it up, pulled in to test and passed. I wasn't there more than 15 minutes. I have the EVO Motorsport tune also. It still passed.

Floyd540

Don't confuse .1 and .2 cars. They are WAY different. no SAI on .2.

Mlevit13

This happened to me less than 3 weeks ago, right after taking delivery from outside of CA. I didn't have the patience for this... Took it to the dealer and had them force the test, then they had it tested (and passed) for me.

dblam65

What year and model is your Porsche? How much did it cost to force from the dealer?
Thanks.

Mlevit13

2006 C2S - 275.00.

dblam65

I am beyond frustrated with my California Smog Test situation. I have tried many version of "Porsche Drive Cycles". I have put over 400 wasted miles during the last two days just because I want my Secondary Oxygen Monitor "READY". At the moment, I feel helpless, stupid and frustrated! So now I am driving my Porsche 997 S with expired tag. I am nervous every time I drive. I already paid my registration online. I am praying, wishing for a miracle my Secondary Oxygen Monitor sets "READY".