Originally Posted by heavysixer22

Funny, as these are also the do's and don'ts I've seen to avoid bore scoring in 997.1's.

Must be good for a ll engine-related boogeymen!

Originally Posted by Petza914

Idling in a .1 to warm it up is bad for 2 reasons. One, the DME puts the car in enrichment mode when it first starts to dump extra fuel into the exhaust to warm up the cats and reduce pollution sooner. This extra fuel if not being used by the engine to propel the car can wash oil off the cylinder walls and contribute to bore scoring. Two, at idle is when the load on the IMS bearing is the greatest because Thera very little centrifugal force acting on it. When the engine is spinning faster, the shaft tends to self-centered in the bearing so theres less physical load on the ***** in the bearing and the internal ***** tend to float between the races.

Also, once warmed up, the rpms should be kept above 2,000 rpm so as not to lug the motor, and if accelerating hard, downshift first, but they don't need to be kept above 3,000 rpm all the time unless you want to annoy everyone around you and have them think you don't know how to drive a manual.

Originally Posted by Porto911

I usually wait till cold idle drops too 800rpm and then immediately drive away, which is about 90 seconds or so. Is this too long also and a habit I should stop immediately?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Porto911

I usually wait till cold idle drops too 800rpm and then immediately drive away, which is about 90 seconds or so. Is this too long also and a habit I should stop immediately?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Petza914

​​​​​​It shouldn't take more than about 30 seconds for the elevated revs to drop. Drive off after that.

Originally Posted by groovzilla

I've found adding Vitamin D to my oil has greatly increased the health of my IMS.
Removing the Grease Seal is a good idea too.

Originally Posted by Petza914

Also, once warmed up, the rpms should be kept above 2,000 rpm so as not to lug the motor, and if accelerating hard, downshift first, but they don't need to be kept above 3,000 rpm all the time unless you want to annoy everyone around you and have them think you don't know how to drive a manual.

Originally Posted by sandwedge

This is why I never understood why Porsche is selling (I assume they still are) PDK cars without sport chrono. I always put mine in sport mode and auto until warmed up. Shifts at around 3,000 rpm this way. Now and then I get distracted by a phone call or whatever and forget to configure it this way backing out of the garage in the morning. PDK in auto/normal mode will shift to second gear at 3 or 4 mph or basically as soon as you start moving and you'll be in 6th gear at 30 mph.

So someone driving a PDK car without sport chrono in auto mode only will probably never get above 2,000 rpm unless speeding on the nearest interstate. And even that would take some effort since in auto mode it'll go into 7th gear and you're in the 2,000 rpm zone (or lower) even if speeding.

Originally Posted by Petza914

We need a sarcasm font so some newbie doesn't actually put vitamin D into his engine.

Originally Posted by Khloesdad

I have'nt read anywhere to clarify, beyond late 05 is most likely "dual row bearings? Do I assume that the "removing the oil seal" applies only to single row replaceable bearings since dual row is not removable without splitting the case?