Christian Stark

Almost positive the 997.2 gasket is reusable. That being said, I don't think it would hurt to order a new one for the re-install.

Petza914

I think the OPG is integrated into the sump plate on the .2 and reusable, but would be better if someone with a. 2 who has had the oil sump off would respond for sure.

Another thought is that if you're pulling it, maybe you want to add a deep sump and skid plate for a little extra oil capacity and protection, especially when doing spirited driving. I have a MantiSport one on my car with the LN skid plate but don't know if MS makes one for the .2 cars or maybe LN does.

Wayne Smith

The .2 cars have multiple sump pumps and a remote pick up chamber for the main pump to avoid oil starvation. A deeper sump would offer more oil but at 10 quarts and 5K mile dilution (that's what it is rather than a change) intervals I don't see a need for more oil. And I drag my oil pan on occasion even at the standard depth.

I haven't needed to pull a .2 pan. The .1 pan I did pull used sealant rather than a gasket. I don't remember the torque on those pan bolts. If no one pipes in I'll check the Jake Raby torque book later.

I agree that the sound is wrong. But the why hangs out there as a question ...

If it is viscosity based that's a pretty sensitive cross over point. Back to my chemistry days multi viscosity oils have long chain polymers that straighten out with heat to maintain viscosity. The change at 200F just seems a bit fussy.

Clearances change with heat. But see the previous paragraph for fussy.

Bearing damage can make bad noises. Same for scoring and other failures. All the more reason to drain the oil and check it along with the filter for debris. Especially since this started after a long potentially abusive session. If there isn't anything in the oil, then pulling the pan probably won't shine any light on the problem. Look for plastic too since this could be a chain guide.

And worry about the last things changed which in your case is the oil and the HPFP. When you renew the oil (you'll need to do this anyway and remember Pete's concern about flushing) if the problem persists then the HPFP would be next. But remember Bruce's advice ... Stethoscope.

PV997

I've dropped and reinstalled my 997.2 pan and it's simple. The perimeter gasket is rubber and is reusable. There are two bolts in the middle of the pan that have raised pedestals with their own individual rubber circular seals, make sure these are seated properly before reinstalling. Just watch out as there is a surprising amount of oil in the pan after draining due to the raised "anthill" of the drain bolt hole. Getting the oil level sensor unplugged is a little tricky until you figure out how the clip works.

According to the WM the torque is 9.5 ft-lbs. Here's the torque sequence.

snaphappy

Update: Dropping the pan was really easy. The gasket has a notch to help you line it back up when you install it - so you can't install it wrong. It was amazing how much dirty oil was in that pan after the car was completely drained. I would say 1/3 quart of oil was laying in that pan. Good news - there was absolutely no metal in the pan. Nothing shiny, nothing reflective. A huge relief. The engine is idling smoother and just runs so perfectly with DT40. I'm very happy. As always, my used oil will be sent off to Speed Diagnostix.

However, it's just occurred to me that the very quiet tick I heard at the rally is not the same tick that I'm hearing now. When I created this post I thought they were the same tick. But now I think not. I've never taken my car to a shop in my entire life until last week when I had Memphis Motor Werks replace high pressure fuel pump. So I've got to call them up and see what they think. All they're gonna say is - I don't want to watch your video - just bring it on by and we'll take a look. So that's what my future holds.

Really hoping it's an exhaust leak.

snaphappy

@Flat6 Innovations Mr. Jake Raby, will you listen to the video in the first post? Just had the high pressure fuel pump replaced and this tick started. Only audible when the oil temperature is around 200. Pulled the oil pan today in a panic - no metal whatsoever. I used my hand and checked for an exhaust leak but didn't feel any air exiting at the joints.

Bruce In Philly

Umm.... a stethoscope costs $5. It may pinpoint the issue and quickly... at a minimum, it can eliminate whole sections of your engine.

Peace
Bruce in Philly

snaphappy

Thanks Bruce. I'm a DIY guy. I have a stethoscope. I can hear the tick pretty much everywhere I place it. Each muffler. The oil pan. The recently replaced fuel pump. I'll remove the air box and listen to everything else see if I find anything.

snaphappy

Just had a local friend suggest timing chain

Petza914

Possible. What are the camshaft deviation numbers. I think the timing chains on the .2 motors are pretty long and kind of thin. When it first came out it was an area of concern, but hasn't proven to be a common problem from what I've seen so far.

snaphappy

I couldn’t find anything on the forums about .2 timing chain or time chain tensioner problems. Lots on .1 but nothing on .2

I’m back to thinking this is an exhaust leak related to my stupid BBE X Pipe. I found 5 loose 13mm bolts that were loose on the various exhaust joints. Will test and report back tomorrow

Mumbles

I had a loud ticking that became very noticeable, then we replaced the tensioner and the loud "tick noise" disappeared.

snaphappy

Which tensioner?

Hindsight2010

Serpentine belt tensioner. You can get a stethescope on it but you'll have to be VERY careful since the belt will be turning around it.

Mumbles

Yes the belt tensioner. Porsche tech inserted a long screwdriver to add tension to the tensioner while the engine was running, noise eliminated, removed the screwdriver noise returned.

Oh yea, my car has only 25k miles, but 11 yrs old.......