Good multi-year UOA
#1
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Good multi-year UOA
See below a multi-year UOA. This past year oil is Liqui Moly. Previous years, Motul.
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Hella-Buggin' (12-30-2019)
#2
DId you add some kind of additive to get the moly at 291? I also ran this exact same oil and moly measured right at 1 as this oil doesn't contain any moly. I also noticed your silicon is at at 4 which rivals mine. I did a UOA on Motul and Mobil 1 in which silicon both measured at 2 for me. Im going back to Motul or Redline.
#3
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DId you add some kind of additive to get the moly at 291? I also ran this exact same oil and moly measured right at 1 as this oil doesn't contain any moly. I also noticed your silicon is at at 4 which rivals mine. I did a UOA on Motul and Mobil 1 in which silicon both measured at 2 for me. Im going back to Motul or Redline.
Last edited by ADias; 12-31-2019 at 02:14 PM. Reason: correct source of moly
#4
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Nice trend data there, especially the metals. I prefer higher Zinc & Phosphorous levels (over 1,000 ppm of both), but otherwise looks pretty good. With this being a DFI motor, keep an eye on fuel dilution and if you see greater than TR amounts, maybe consider renewing your fuel injectors.
#5
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Although very low, why did aluminum go up?
For those low miles, <2,700, why are the viscosity numbers near the low end of the range?
For those low miles, <2,700, why are the viscosity numbers near the low end of the range?
#6
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I added Ceratec to Motul Xcess at my last change and planning to do a UOA at the next change, but begin adding the Liqui Moly additive at that time. I'll do another UOA after that, but does it make sense to keep adding The Liqui Mo;y at each change?
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#8
I use Liqui Moly oil for my fill. My plan is to change over to the Molygen next fill which is premixed. Not exactly sure if given that plan I should skip Ceratec and maybe go with Mos2
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Originally Posted by ADias
Al did not go up - it is on a range.
Viscosity is perfect.
Viscosity is perfect.
You want to see your wear metals "freeze ", neither going up or down.
At only 2,600 miles on the OCI your oil viscosities are sheering down to the low end of the range for a 5W40. Why? It's better than the classic Mobil 0W40 sheeting, but only slightly.
#11
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Your prior aluminum was 1. Now it's 3. It went up. Why? It's low, but why did it move higher.
You want to see your wear metals "freeze ", neither going up or down.
At only 2,600 miles on the OCI your oil viscosities are sheering down to the low end of the range for a 5W40. Why? It's better than the classic Mobil 0W40 sheeting, but only slightly.
You want to see your wear metals "freeze ", neither going up or down.
At only 2,600 miles on the OCI your oil viscosities are sheering down to the low end of the range for a 5W40. Why? It's better than the classic Mobil 0W40 sheeting, but only slightly.
#12
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It seems like the anti wear additive package in your oil is breaking down prematurely. I'm pretty sure the Motul xcess 8100 (if that's the one you were using) has higher levels of ZDDP in it's virgin form and it's being reduced quickly in not very many miles (less than 3,000 per change). Do you have a manometer you can hook up and take a reading? Im curious what the number is based on the UOA results I see here. I don't know the virgin numbers for the latest oil you're using so don't know that ZDDP numbers for it start at, but as I mentioned, the levels are lower than what I think they should ideally be.
Here's a UOA from my wife's car using Motul xcess. We how Zinc and Phosphorous are both usually over 1,000 ppm even with 1,000 more miles on the oil than your change interval.
The Driven DT40 I switched to holds up even better - note those last 2 samples and the viscosity and ZDDP numbers.
Here's a UOA from my wife's car using Motul xcess. We how Zinc and Phosphorous are both usually over 1,000 ppm even with 1,000 more miles on the oil than your change interval.
The Driven DT40 I switched to holds up even better - note those last 2 samples and the viscosity and ZDDP numbers.
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Ironman88 (12-31-2019)
#13
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It seems like the anti wear additive package in your oil is breaking down prematurely. I'm pretty sure the Motul xcess 8100 (if that's the one you were using) has higher levels of ZDDP in it's virgin form and it's being reduced quickly in not very many miles (less than 3,000 per change). Do you have a manometer you can hook up and take a reading? Im curious what the number is based on the UOA results I see here. I don't know the virgin numbers for the latest oil you're using so don't know that ZDDP numbers for it start at, but as I mentioned, the levels are lower than what I think they should ideally be.
Here's a UOA from my wife's car using Motul xcess. We how Zinc and Phosphorous are both usually over 1,000 ppm even with 1,000 more miles on the oil than your change interval.
The Driven DT40 I switched to holds up even better - note those last 2 samples and the viscosity and ZDDP numbers.
Here's a UOA from my wife's car using Motul xcess. We how Zinc and Phosphorous are both usually over 1,000 ppm even with 1,000 more miles on the oil than your change interval.
The Driven DT40 I switched to holds up even better - note those last 2 samples and the viscosity and ZDDP numbers.
My engine's measurements are fine. I moved from ZDDP to moly and ceratec. You use Driven, I use LM. All is good!
#14
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If your comfortable with everything, just keep watching the numbers, but getting a manometer reading wouldn't hurt.
#15
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I liked (and still do) the wear metal numbers, but don't have any experience with LM oils and UOA from them or know what the virgin samples should look like. Went back and looked at the Motul numbers where I did have my own direct comparison to evaluate them against and didn't like those Zinc & Phosphorous numbers as much. When I look at those at 3,000 miles and the fuel dilution numbers, I'm concerned about engine wear (thus the manometer recommendation) and why the additive package numbers are lower than mine with fewer miles.
If your comfortable with everything, just keep watching the numbers, but getting a manometer reading wouldn't hurt.
If your comfortable with everything, just keep watching the numbers, but getting a manometer reading wouldn't hurt.