Balr14

OP made no such statement. I will repeat, I have 3 DFI cars and all blow a lot of soot.

BruceWarne

You're right. It doesn't cris-cross on the 997.2. It looks like it does, but the pipes turn back on themselves (U-shape) inside the center muffler.

groovzilla

Looks like you're wrong again this time on the chris-cross statement - not surprised.
...And I was referring to 997.1 engine as exampled in my personal list of car's above and their respective oil consumption

LexVan

Thank you Christian and Bruce. Good stuff!

groovzilla

Try not to soil your panties.

Macster

A sudden up tick in oil consumption as has been mentioned is cause for concern. Seven tenths of a liter in 2K miles is really nothing to be concerned about.

Unless the engine emits oil smoke while running, when taking off from a stop light, or when given the whip or when after a hard run when the throttle is closed -- all signs of an engine with ring or valve guide/stem/seal issues -- the oil probably is just making it past the AOS or whatever the 997.2 engine has to remove oil vapor from crankcase fumes before the fumes are routed to the engine intake manifold. (If you ever get a chance to expose the manifold look inside and see the oil wet surfaces. Porsche techs told me they see this more often than not.)

Soot on tail pipes is nothing. The engine produces around 19lbs of of carbon (mostly in the form of CO2 and it is the oxygen that brings the bulk of the weight) for every gallon of gasoline burned but not all carbon is on the form of CO2. Like I like to say "soot happens".

Also have to mention that gasoline has some oil in it to prevent corrosion of ferrous surfaces that the gasoline might come in contact with. Roughly a gallon of gasoline has nearly an ounce of oil in it. So in 2K miles assuming 25mpg the engine burned 80 gallons of gasoline or around 80 ounces of oil or nearly 2/3rds of a gallon of oil.

Be sure you do not over fill the engine with oil. Be sure when you check the oil level you do in a consistent manner and in a way to provide you with an accurate oil level. Remember the oil level can be low when checked cold -- if the 997.2 supports checking the oil cold -- and higher when checked hot.

groovzilla

While I'm not a fan of all the Bore Scoring paranoia, Jake Raby has mentioned on numerous posts/threads that greater soot buildup on left tailpipe can be cause of concern for Bore Scoring.
So greater soot buildup on left side (left bank)can be a factor/cause for concern

docdrs

Raby is referring to .1 which do crisscross and hence #6 cylinder (the main culprit in BS and on the right side of the engine in bank 2 ) exhausts on the left side. OP is talking about a .2 which only crisscrosses if you have removed the centre muffler and replace with an x pipe.

BucketList

My 2009 C4S was using about a Quart every 1200 miles when I was using 0W-40. I asked my mechanic about it and he said the zero is really too light especially for CA cars and he suggests using 5W-40. He uses Total 5W-40. I took his advice and had him put that in. So far its on track to consume about a Quart in 1500 miles. Better than zero but still quite a bit. Normal soot on tail pipes. Engine purrs like a kitten. This is my second oil change since buying the car. There is no indication anything is amiss. I do have the Sharkworks center muffler delete x-pipe. Car sounds like a Porsche 911...

Flat6 Innovations

Yes, so far my bore scoring video series has NOT covered the .2 engine at all, only the M9X engine family is covered in these videos.
The .2 (9a1) engines share pretty much nothing with the M9X from symptoms, to diagnosis, and etc.

docdrs

The 0 refers to the winter or cold viscosity. The 40 is the hot viscosity or thickness of the oil at a prescribed temperature. In a hot environment the low number means nothing....if anything, a 0 will flow better during the critical warm up of an engine over a 5, especially during the colder nights on early morning start up. imo your mechanic is misinformed, and lacks the understanding of what the numbers represent .... feel free to correct me .... anyone....btw iirc W means winter

BucketList

Yes I know all that also. Read it here and plenty of other sites but there is some misunderstanding of the spec. If an oil (or any petrol product for that matter) is thin enough to flow well when ice cold (0C is the spec I think), then its going to be even thinner at high temp. The fact that the additives allow it to hold up like a 40 weight when hot doesn't mean its not super thin. It's this thin viscosity that contributes to consumption because it gets past the rings easier. If you have ever poured 0 weight oil in a car (My MDX is also a "0" oil car, it pours like water.

Also the proof is in the pudding so to speak. The 5W oil makes the motor sound smoother (yes I can tell - it's subtle but noticeable) and it's definitely burning a lot less. I may have to update my post because after I added the last half quart it still hasn't dropped a notch so it may have started lower. I won't know for sure until I finish the quart and run it down to the add mark. Once I get a durametric and change my own damn oil I will know for sure.

Qwksnke

You are correct but it is only valid in really cold climates. 5w oil is designed to operate effectively down -22 degrees Fahrenheit.
Unless you live in a winter climate where it stays that cold or colder, there really isn't a need to run a 0w multi grade oil.

And I have experienced the same as the the other poster. Here in the southeastern US, anytime I have ran 0w40 in my porsche or AMG, the engines have consumed way more oil in between oil changes than when I run 5w40. I am going to say that is because the climate I live in is really to warm for a 0w oil

Carerra

xx

lmaternick

One thing to check is if the hoses to your oil separator are connected securely. I had fairly high oil consumption as you do and soot on my tailpipes. While doing a B+ harness and other work I noticed one of the hoses was not "clicked" fully into place. This was causing oil to mist in my engine compartment as well as probably effecting the operation of the AOS. Cleaned it up, secured it correctly and now my consumption is near zero and engine compartment is remaining clean. Something to check. Also if the AOS is not functioning correctly it will pass oil into the combustion chamber and cause oil burn as well as sooty tailpipes and smoking.