any Ducktail pics and info?
#91
#92
#93
I wanted to try and put together a summary of the Ducktail manufacturers that exist out there as I am looking at getting one myself.
Getty Designs: Full decklid, most popular Sport Price: $1,369
Misha: insert style? Misha Price ???
FVD/Moshammer: few mentions, insert style Scroll over in items to Ducktail P997.20.3020 FVD Website and full deck here Price $1,500-$2,200
GT3Tek: insert style, only seen 2-3 examples of it: $399 Website-Horrible Pics Better Pics Here
RPG Ducktail: full deck, very few mentions Pictures here Price: $950
OEM: ??? Is there an OEM part # for the Sport Classic models?
The GT3Tek one seems drastically cheaper that the others, their website describes a 996, but I've emailed them and they have a 997 one that is $399 v $475 for the 996's. It also seems to not require drilling into the existing deck but rather replaces the movable wing part. Can anyone confirm this?
Getty Designs: Full decklid, most popular Sport Price: $1,369
Misha: insert style? Misha Price ???
FVD/Moshammer: few mentions, insert style Scroll over in items to Ducktail P997.20.3020 FVD Website and full deck here Price $1,500-$2,200
GT3Tek: insert style, only seen 2-3 examples of it: $399 Website-Horrible Pics Better Pics Here
RPG Ducktail: full deck, very few mentions Pictures here Price: $950
OEM: ??? Is there an OEM part # for the Sport Classic models?
The GT3Tek one seems drastically cheaper that the others, their website describes a 996, but I've emailed them and they have a 997 one that is $399 v $475 for the 996's. It also seems to not require drilling into the existing deck but rather replaces the movable wing part. Can anyone confirm this?
#94
Can’t help you w/ the GT3Tek. Call Mike at Getty. He is fun to talk with. He sold one to me a few weeks back. I’m just saving to have it painted. It will cost more than the price you have shown. It kills me to walk past it in the garage. I did a test fit the day it arrived and I am pleased at what I am seeing.
#95
Can’t help you w/ the GT3Tek. Call Mike at Getty. He is fun to talk with. He sold one to me a few weeks back. I’m just saving to have it painted. It will cost more than the price you have shown. It kills me to walk past it in the garage. I did a test fit the day it arrived and I am pleased at what I am seeing.
One of the things that I like about the 'insert style' vs the full deck lid replacement is that having a C4S, I have the nice decklid reflector (in all of it's condensation accumulating glory) which I do certainly enjoy, and with the full replacement like Getty, I would lose that.
#96
Oh no wait my bad. I meant it will cost more than $1369. Its recommended to pay for that primer service and that wiring harnesses. I’ve been quoted $450 to have it painted here in North Carolina.
#97
Haha, ok that makes more sense. Yeah I was just looking at parts cost since painting varies across the country, people all have their preference and some people have the equipment/skills to paint something simple like themselves.
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BaileyII (06-23-2019)
#98
So I finally took the ducktail from the box in the garage and did a quick test-fit.
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white
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chuckgm3 (07-14-2019)
#99
It looks awesome already just with the test fit. Just another suggestion. Once it is painted and you are fine tuning the fit do not forget that you can also do small adjustments to the tail lights. There are 2 screws on each light that can be loosened just a bit so that you can adjust the tail lights to fit nice and flush with the ducktail lid when closed. Looking forward to seeing it all done!
#100
Perhaps and yes I did initially have the lift and while it did not have any noticeable wayward impact on handling on the track....I just thought it looked a bit odd and OTT to be honest and hence disabled the lift. I actually quite like the more subtle look of the smaller tail than many of the others.
#101
It looks awesome already just with the test fit. Just another suggestion. Once it is painted and you are fine tuning the fit do not forget that you can also do small adjustments to the tail lights. There are 2 screws on each light that can be loosened just a bit so that you can adjust the tail lights to fit nice and flush with the ducktail lid when closed. Looking forward to seeing it all done!
Another concern is water (9 months a year hear in the Seattle area). There was a thread that dealt with the cylindrical air intakes, and the solution was to bag them in a waterproof breathable material.
I can still do that (or use a vent dryer hood) to my stock intake entry to prevent water from getting into the intake.
But that still leaves the right side vent grill of the ducktail to let water into the spoiler.
The OEM spoiler doesn't let that much water in because it has the louvers, and the fact that water goes through the raising part of the spoiler onto the top-side of the decklid and just slides out => almost nothing gets into the engine-bay.
I don't know if I'm overthinking this.. but my concern is if I park outside during the rains, then that would let water collect either inside the spoiler, or in the engine-bay.
There are no drain holes in the spoiler and I don't think I can let the water out into the engine-bay anyways
I need a way to drain the water from the insides of the spoiler.
#103
looks beautiful
So I finally took the ducktail from the box in the garage and did a quick test-fit.
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white
#105
Did you read the instructions that came with the tail? It still requires some minor tweaking to fit each car perfectly. There's also a lot of adjustability in the hinges, rear lights, and 3rd brake light panel. The panel fit on 997s is not all that tight.
So I finally took the ducktail from the box in the garage and did a quick test-fit.
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white
Disconnecting the decklid harness was a pain, until I figured out how to do it right. (https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...d-harness.html)
Then there's the zip-tie that's holding the harness wire to the body of the car.
Once you ensure that the harness is freed up, then it's just a matter of removing 4 bolts to remove the entire decklid.
The fit could have been better. The holes for the bolts did not line up perfectly, so the top edge was touching the brake light panel when closing.
Overall, for a Fiberglass product, I don't think it's bad at all (spoiler is from RPG).
Since I purchased this locally, I don't have the grill inserts. Maybe I'll just get some wire-mesh material from HomeDepot and epoxy it like others did.
I was thinking of DIY'ing it through since it's already primed, but paint-matching might be tricky since the car is 14 years old now and it's no longer white