rootwyrm

Sure thing! I always include that disclaimer just because someday, somebody's gonna find something I posted about a HP DI system without that disclaimer and decide the University of YouTube makes them an expert, and then their estate is gonna sue me because they set themselves on fire and burned down two city blocks. I just know it's gonna happen. Especially with all these people who think "I watched 9 videos on YouTube. I totally can rebuild this in my garage with a crescent wrench!"

Believe me, DI's a strange beast. I've been banging on higher pressure systems a few years now, and it's still quite good at kicking my butt. A lot of learning by screwing things up and having to do the job twice, plus one incident that destroyed a $15,000 crate engine. (In my defense, the root cause was a block defect! But it might've lived a bit longer if I hadn't leaned it out.) What really drives me insane though, is the lack of instrumentation on the low pressure side. I mean, come on guys. We're not controlling the engine with a 6803S here. You couldn't find some pins and cycles to tell me I'm only getting 3.2gp/h instead of 32gp/h?

jdl8r

So I finished the High Pressure Pump replacement... Took about 5-6 hours, most of that time was wasted with me 'trying' to figure out how to replace it.
Now that I've done, it's about a 4 hour job.
I took some videos, which are in the wrong file format to upload (if I get the chance tonight, I'll attempt to edit them).
The process on a 997.2 might be different than the .1 variant.
The steps are relatively straight forward:
1. remove the drives side muffler (need this gone to access the high pressure pump)
2. loosen the air exchanger (middle muffler looking thing) enough to lower the driver's side
3. the hose to the water pump is metal, so you need to pinch the top hose and remove the connecting fitting to the water pump (about 2 gallons of fluid will be lost). Have a large pan/bucket ready.
4. with the metal hose out of the way, remove the 4 bolts (1 holds the metal hose to the front plate) holding the front plate on.
5. 3 additional bolts hold the aluminum shroud around the pump.
6. a few more of the torx bolts hold the High Pressure Pump on
7. remove the pump (notice the orientation of the rotating bit
8. align the new pump and ensure exact same fit... if you don't it could be disasterous
9. reassemble
Note: be careful not to over-tighten your torx bolts. I lost the water pump hose bolt when it expanded after running and pulled out the threads... Had to helicoil it back onto the water pump. Will replace the water pump shortly.

jdl8r

Also... when you fire up the car for the first time... it might be wise to have a fire-extinguisher ready.

doclouie

rootwyrm

Oh yeah, and these are NA, where DI is relatively easy. 1801psi tells me the system's pretty much dialed in - generally looking for +-5%, you're at around +3% on the pressure. (I'll reject at -2% but that's just me.) Doesn't mean you don't have a fuel problem though, just means it's not pressure related. You can always check against your lambda (O2), STFT, and LTFT numbers, which will tell you how it's running at that pressure.

But I'd bet mostly it's Not Actually In Your Head, it's Just The Power Delivery. You're coming from Jeep. Jeeps are all about the torque. The venerable 4.0 produces only 173-190HP but more than 220ft/lbs of torque. The 4.2's got more torque, and the 360's a stump puller. The X51/GTS might produce 408HP, but it only has 310ft/lbs of torque. So yeah, to me, it definitely feels down on power seat-of-the-pants compared to a GM LTG motor because the LTG actually has about the same torque (or more, depending if I've waved my hands in it's general direction.) Despite producing 150HP less. The C2S/C4S only has 267ft/lbs. So when you come from years of driving stuff with a mountain of torque off the line or just more torque than horsepower, yeah, it can take quite some time to get used to the opposite.

Or you can buy a 997.2 Turbo. Those have lots of torque.

GTSence

Adding to the thread so others have the info for reference. I have a 997 GTS that I've owned since 2013, currently ~38k miles. Bought CPO and maintained by the book. Noticed the car was hard to start about a month ago. It would turn over, but reluctantly fire up and sometimes even stall. Thought it might be bad gas since it wasn't getting much road time during COVID-19 SIP. Seemed odd though since I always use Shell premium and have never had an issue in the 911 or any other car. Eventually, saw the "reduced engine power" and "contact workshop" messages. Had the car taken by flatbed to my Indy. They confirmed the issue and replaced the HPFP for ~$1400.

I did attempt to work with the selling dealer. I haven't had the car serviced by them for a few years now, so I didn't expect them to be accommodating... they weren't. I also contacted PCNA. Their response included the following statement, "Porsche does review cases outside of warranty for possible financial assistance, considering age, mileage, care of the vehicle, and loyalty to your dealership and the Porsche brand." Again, given that I went Indy for service a few years back, I didn't expect them to help... was free to ask though.

doclouie

Did you check if your fuel pressure pump was ever replaced under the factory recall? Mine was not until 9 years after the recall.

Doug H

I called PCNA in 2017, BEFORE the repair, to get a HPFP covered in a 2010 that was also covered by a Fidelity warranty at the time. I did not make a big deal about it. Told PCNA I had a Fidelity warranty, but I thought they should cover since it was a former recall part with a known problem. They looked up my history as a customer and covered it.

Interstingly, my dealer initially kind of equivocated on it so I told them I would call PCNA..

After I called PCNA, the dealer covered the HPFP and the dealer also covered a couple hundred bucks in other parts such as a couple of pulleys they said needed to be replaced as they were also doing a service and a serpentine belt replacement at the same time as the HPFP.

Without a doubt, it is done once you pay. You have to get the goodwill coverage before the work commences.

GTSence

I did. There was no recall on my car. I checked and the dealer checked.

sandwedge

I had almost exactly the same symptoms on my GTS and got the reduced engine power light too. Car eventually ended up at the dealership where the HPFP was replaced at no charge. Recall item for our cars if memory serves. If you brought this up with your dealership prior to having the work done by the indy, something doesn't seem right here. Recall items don't have expiration dates as far as I know. Replacing recall items at no cost or at full retail also shouldn't have anything to do with whether or not you've been a loyal dealership customer.

GTSence

Two local dealerships and PCNA said there is no recall. If anyone has proof otherwise, post a photo showing the work completed at no cost.

sandwedge

Photo attached of the receipt showing my HPFP replaced at no cost. It doesn't specify recall but says warranty instead. This was done in April 2018 so my car was well out of warranty and CPO coverage. I did have a Fidelity extended platinum policy with a $500 deductible but this was not a warranty claim and I paid nothing out of pocket.

Again, my service advisor told me it was a recall item. Work was done by Suncoast Porsche in Sarasota, Florida. This issue has been discussed here before btw.

Doug H

Not an active recall. This was several years ago. My wife has long since sold her 2010 we had the HPFP replaced covered by goodwill and we leave all receipts for workin the car when we sell it.

GTSence

Good for you! I got no support from the dealership or PCNA. Did the 2 extra years matter?... yours in 2018 and mine in 2020. Who knows? I know that it has been discussed here, that's why I pursued the dealership and PCNA. I'm curious, what does the fidelity warranty cost?

sandwedge

I guess I was wrong in assuming recall items had no expiration date. I wouldn't expect them to be valid for the life of the car but that they would reject it a measly two years after my pump was replaced for free seems a bit customer unfriendly.

As for a Fidelity extended warranty, the cost is all over the map depending on the age and mileage of your car. I could be wrong on this but I don't think they cover cars 10 years or older. And as a reference, I bought a 3 year, 36,000 mile platinum policy a year ago for $5,800 with 61,500 miles on the clock on my -2011 GTS. The platinum policy is basically identical to factory warranty or CPO and is exclusionary as opposed to inclusionary. In other words, it specifies what's not covered as opposed to an endless list of items that are covered. The list of items not covered by the platinum policy is pretty short btw. Only reason I bought it is the PDK. Had a failure on my -09 C4S due to some stupid electronic part that still required full replacement which wasn't cheap.

Best way to get a quote for your car is to contact Michael at Mossy Motors in New Orleans. His email is mjourdan@mossymotors.com. Based on what I've read around here and elsewhere his pricing for these policies is hard to beat.