Engine & trans removal advice.
04-23-2017, 09:58 AM
#16
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04-23-2017, 11:51 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
FWIW, two times now I've had to replace all the idler/tensioner rollers on my 996 Turbo. Once under warranty and again out of warranty. The tech didn't have to drop the engine. The water pump was replaced, too, and the engine stayed in the car.
If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
If you do drop it, the "while I'm in there" list should include a lot of $tuff if you want to refresh everything. For me it's a simple call based on plans for the car. Weekend cruiser/drive occasionally or regularly drive and take to track?
04-23-2017, 12:13 PM
#18
Race Director
I do know both times he removed the transmission -- once to replace it under warranty (leaking selector shaft seal) and again to replace a leaking RMS -- he supported the engine. The first time with a (tall) jack. The 2nd time he bolted a support brace to where the rear sway bar mounts (the sway bar was unbolted) and this supported the engine.
See attached pic.
04-25-2017, 07:32 AM
#19
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Did not see the car on the lift when it was in for (2 times) the idler/tensioner roller replacement or the water pump replacement. While I'm sure the tech didn't remove the engine I do not know what he might have removed (besides the airbox) to improve access to the idler/tensioner rollers.
I do know both times he removed the transmission -- once to replace it under warranty (leaking selector shaft seal) and again to replace a leaking RMS -- he supported the engine. The first time with a (tall) jack. The 2nd time he bolted a support brace to where the rear sway bar mounts (the sway bar was unbolted) and this supported the engine.
See attached pic.
I do know both times he removed the transmission -- once to replace it under warranty (leaking selector shaft seal) and again to replace a leaking RMS -- he supported the engine. The first time with a (tall) jack. The 2nd time he bolted a support brace to where the rear sway bar mounts (the sway bar was unbolted) and this supported the engine.
See attached pic.
05-01-2017, 04:36 PM
#22
Drifting
You can also purchase Sir Tools P254 Engine Support Bar for $180, and is exactly like factory tool.
I was thinking about building an exact factory replica, but the material costs $70, plus the swivel cradle $15 in material.
I was thinking about building an exact factory replica, but the material costs $70, plus the swivel cradle $15 in material.
