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Engine & trans removal advice.

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Old 04-21-2017, 09:49 AM
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raffsracing
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Default Engine & trans removal advice.

My new ride. A step up from the 964 i had previously. I now have a noisy idler so it's time to drop the motor & trans. I will be replacing some hoses, pinning the coolant pipes & all the other tech tips i have read on these pages. The question i have though, is there a thread on the removal process of the engjne etc. I did the engine & transmission on the 964 but i did make a few rookie mistakes along the way which i am hoping to avoid this time round so any advice would be awesome. Cheers.
Old 04-21-2017, 01:04 PM
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Kevinmacd
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Since you are going to the extent of engine removal, have the coolant pipes welded. Pining only prevents the pipes from popping out but will still leak!
You sure your noisey idler is not the regular IMS/chain noise?
Btw thats my favorite color! Nice!

Last edited by Kevinmacd; 04-21-2017 at 09:03 PM.
Old 04-21-2017, 01:14 PM
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PAULUNM
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Idler pulley for the belt? Motor does not need to come out for that- just remove the air box.
Old 04-21-2017, 01:25 PM
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Chris996
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I sent parts for weld to BBI bbiautosport.com.
Old 04-21-2017, 02:55 PM
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32krazy!
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were are you located at?
Old 04-21-2017, 04:53 PM
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jpflip
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The repair manual is very useful to remove the engine. A good step by step can be found on page 1168 to 1178. I did a print and check off all the steps while doing it the first time…


Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
Old 04-21-2017, 04:58 PM
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Macster
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Lapis blue is a great color!

For engine removal you may get some value from this thread on the subject:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ed-advice.html
Old 04-21-2017, 06:34 PM
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tsky
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I managed to replace both idler pulleys and the belt tensioner without dropping the engine. It was a little tricky at times but if I can do it, anybody can. But, it turned out my water pump was making all the noise and needed to be replaced (111,000 miles).
Old 04-21-2017, 08:23 PM
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raffsracing
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Originally Posted by Kevinmacd
Since you are going to the extent of engine removal, have the coolant pipes welded. Pining only prvents the pipes from popping out but will still leak!
You sure your noisey idler is not the regular IMS/chain noise?
Btw thats my favorite color! Nice!
It is the idler underneath the air con compressor. I backed off the belt & went through them all to diagnose the noise & unfortunately it is the culprit.
Old 04-21-2017, 08:25 PM
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raffsracing
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Originally Posted by 32krazy!
were are you located at?
I am in Perth Western Australia. A long way from anywhere.
Old 04-21-2017, 08:35 PM
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raffsracing
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Originally Posted by tsky
I managed to replace both idler pulleys and the belt tensioner without dropping the engine. It was a little tricky at times but if I can do it, anybody can. But, it turned out my water pump was making all the noise and needed to be replaced (111,000 miles).
I only really want to do this job once so i am also considering doing the water pump aswell while it is out.
Old 04-21-2017, 08:38 PM
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raffsracing
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Originally Posted by jpflip
The repair manual is very useful to remove the engine. A good step by step can be found on page 1168 to 1178. I did a print and check off all the steps while doing it the first time…


Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
Thankyou for all the great advicd. The links are awesome & really appreciated.
Old 04-21-2017, 08:59 PM
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Macster
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Originally Posted by raffsracing
It is the idler underneath the air con compressor. I backed off the belt & went through them all to diagnose the noise & unfortunately it is the culprit.
FWIW, two times now I've had to replace all the idler/tensioner rollers on my 996 Turbo. Once under warranty and again out of warranty. The tech didn't have to drop the engine. The water pump was replaced, too, and the engine stayed in the car.

If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
Old 04-23-2017, 01:07 AM
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trendy996
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There's a nice video how a company that removes coolant nipples, removes the old adhesive, knurls the ends and then reinserts them with a epoxy for a few hundred. Not sure what the price on welding is. When ever I get a new Porsche the drivetrain is always dropped and refreshed on the preventative maintenance
Old 04-23-2017, 09:54 AM
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raffsracing
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Originally Posted by Macster
FWIW, two times now I've had to replace all the idler/tensioner rollers on my 996 Turbo. Once under warranty and again out of warranty. The tech didn't have to drop the engine. The water pump was replaced, too, and the engine stayed in the car.

If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
Gee i couldn't imagine doing it with the engine in. Did he support the back of the engine & then remove the carrier for access?


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