Engine & trans removal advice.
#1
Engine & trans removal advice.
My new ride. A step up from the 964 i had previously. I now have a noisy idler so it's time to drop the motor & trans. I will be replacing some hoses, pinning the coolant pipes & all the other tech tips i have read on these pages. The question i have though, is there a thread on the removal process of the engjne etc. I did the engine & transmission on the 964 but i did make a few rookie mistakes along the way which i am hoping to avoid this time round so any advice would be awesome. Cheers.
#2
Rennlist Member
Since you are going to the extent of engine removal, have the coolant pipes welded. Pining only prevents the pipes from popping out but will still leak!
You sure your noisey idler is not the regular IMS/chain noise?
Btw thats my favorite color! Nice!
You sure your noisey idler is not the regular IMS/chain noise?
Btw thats my favorite color! Nice!
Last edited by Kevinmacd; 04-21-2017 at 09:03 PM.
#6
Three Wheelin'
The repair manual is very useful to remove the engine. A good step by step can be found on page 1168 to 1178. I did a print and check off all the steps while doing it the first time…
Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
#7
Race Director
Lapis blue is a great color!
For engine removal you may get some value from this thread on the subject:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ed-advice.html
For engine removal you may get some value from this thread on the subject:
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-turb...ed-advice.html
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#8
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I managed to replace both idler pulleys and the belt tensioner without dropping the engine. It was a little tricky at times but if I can do it, anybody can. But, it turned out my water pump was making all the noise and needed to be replaced (111,000 miles).
#9
It is the idler underneath the air con compressor. I backed off the belt & went through them all to diagnose the noise & unfortunately it is the culprit.
#11
I only really want to do this job once so i am also considering doing the water pump aswell while it is out.
#12
The repair manual is very useful to remove the engine. A good step by step can be found on page 1168 to 1178. I did a print and check off all the steps while doing it the first time…
Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
Repair manual can be found here: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...manuals-9.html
#13
Race Director
If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
#14
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There's a nice video how a company that removes coolant nipples, removes the old adhesive, knurls the ends and then reinserts them with a epoxy for a few hundred. Not sure what the price on welding is. When ever I get a new Porsche the drivetrain is always dropped and refreshed on the preventative maintenance
#15
FWIW, two times now I've had to replace all the idler/tensioner rollers on my 996 Turbo. Once under warranty and again out of warranty. The tech didn't have to drop the engine. The water pump was replaced, too, and the engine stayed in the car.
If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.
If the water hose fittings in the block are not leaking and you don't intend to race the car you might just wait on pinning (or welding) those when (if) one fails.